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Mad Harold

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    Retired musician
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  • Boat Location
    Aspley Wharf,Huddersfield

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  1. You are probably right about this forum's regular posters being more er mature men. But speaking for myself,when I was working,I simply did not have the time or spare money for boating (paying mortgage, etc) taking kids to school/choir/dancing/school functions etc. Now that most of that is done with (except for one still at school) I do have a little spare money,and the time for boating and posting on here. It's just the way things are.
  2. There are people on here with transdrives,Naughty Cal I think and may be able to advise. There is a manual online for Enfield transdrives,but don't know what make yours is. My tub is outboard powered and it locks itself down in reverse but hangs loose in fwd.There are 3 shallow water tilt up positions and the hand book says not to use reverse in a shallow water tilt up position. I notice that you have chained your transdrive up into a shallow water position. Could this be why it kicks up in reverse?
  3. A sharp Stanley knife will soon fix that! Then have a canvas zip up panel sewn in. An umbrella mount on the tiller is useful too,or you could be like me and in bad weather put the kettle on and light the stove and switch the telly on and callit a day.
  4. Don't think legislation is needed,but the costs incurred by Mr.Hazeldean should serve as a warning to all cyclists,as to what could happen in a moment af inattention. We have all seen the TV adds from legal firms saying "no win,no fee"and this is encouraging legal action. All cyclists should seriously consider third party insurance.
  5. With all the flak Peterboat is taking about electric boating I don't think he can be blamed if he trots off to Thunderboat,where he can get higher class criticism.
  6. Nicely done.You're boating needs seem to be well catered for with the electric set up.We may all have a similar drive in time. Lack of boats? I don't know,but around here W.Yorks. they seem to come in waves.Some days no boats moving,and others,loads.Perhaps there is a jungle telegraph that doesn't include us,and the message goes out, (let's all go for a cruise,) and everyone says "yeah,good idea"
  7. A Highbridge would be a good choice,but don't come up for sale very often.I am on my second Norman,and though good solid old boats unless you get the bigger models (the 27 or 32) you may find them a bit small. A diesel grp boat will have in most cases a transom drive.These are quite troublesome and expensive to service and repair. Heating on a petrol powered grp boat is usually a room sealed diesel or gas blown air heater, (Webasto,Eberspacher,or Propex) Osmosis is rare,but if spotted early is easily repaired.
  8. Yes,these are pessimistic (safer) figures,at canal speeds (3-4mph) my old 10hp Yamaha used to burn about 1ltr per hour.At higher power settings,the fuel consumption used to increase dramaticaly. A rough rule of thumb (from my flying days) was, 5 gall per hour per 100hp produced.
  9. A20hp four stroke will probably burn a gallon per hour at full power.At say 2/3rds power about 3 litres per hour. There is a legal maximum amount of petrol that can be carried not only for your own safety,but petrol carried above the legal amount will endanger a wider area if the worst happens. Not trying to be clever,but suggest you recruit a more experienced boater to accompany you on your first trip on the Trent.
  10. My new (to me) boat has no cooking facilities.It has a gas locker,but no piping. I am thinking it would be simpler and probably cheaper to fit a two burner meths stove,but searching the web I am getting confused. Some are advertised as alcohol stoves (the type that seem most suitable for a boat) and others as methylated spirit stoves which look more suitable for camping. I know meths is generally available in DIY stores,but alcohol,I don't know. My question is,do alcohol stoves run on meths? I assume that alcohol will be available in chandleries and camping stores?
  11. Recently sold my boat(1978 Hesford Marine) in good nick,no overplating,BMC engine, and I reluctantly accepted £12000. The main reason for it not attracting better offers was stated by a couple of viewers, was the age. A 41 year old boat (unless it's a historic one) is unlikely to command a high price. I agree with a couple of posters that this boat is only worth £10-12k. Many boats are advertised for prices well above their worth,in the hope that a newbie naive person will come along and buy it(sadly they frequently do).I know,I was one,but in the words of an old jazz song "I's done got wise". I recommend studying past posts on this forum on the subject of boat buying,there have been a lot! and after a time I am sure you will get a better feel for what you are about to embark on.
  12. Have thought of this,but dismissed it as alot of work for little gain.It won't reduce the draught but will get rid of the outdrive,and although I have never had a boat with one,word on the street is they are troublesome.Have a look at a Freeman, or a Creighton or any boat on blocks that has shaft drive,to give you some ideas. My idea(which I dismissed as impractical) was to cut a strip about a foot wide and mould a tunnel for the prop in the stern.The prop would spin in the tunnel through a normal stern gland and be almost like jet drive.The prop depth would be much reduced. Next time you see an old geezer in a pub with his pint staring into space,it could be me dreaming up impractical ideas for his boat. By the way,regarding changing perspex for glass,put a straight edge across one of your front windows because I don't know about the Norman 32,but the Norman 20s front windows have a slight twist so making perspex necessary.
  13. This for the water ingress,but the overheating sounds like further investigation is needed,as it could be one of a number of things.
  14. Ah,but can you sing "Scotland The Brave" in Polish?
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