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Mad Harold

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  • Occupation
    Retired musician
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  • Boat Location
    Aspley Wharf,Huddersfield

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  1. I think go ahead and fit your BMC.They have proved reliable and durable providing you don't flog them (as on canals) but buy an outboard as a back up. ( And a box of distress rockets) 😜
  2. Steady on! that's ... ( sucks pencil) 2. 3 mph. You'll be getting a speeding ticket!
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  4. My last boat was powered by a BMC 1500 and I often wondered why the torsion damper was in the front pulley. Surely any shock load would come from the drive end. What's the reason the damper is at the front?
  5. I have doubts,but please let us know what happens. Don't mind being wrong.
  6. Apart from saving money,I can't see that using a vehicle radiator and electric fan will be satisfactory for very long. I think the electric fan will be running constantly for normal canal cruising and if you are pushing against wind and tide,I think it will be working overtime,and if it hands it's dinner pail in,you could be knackered. A heat exchanger system I think will be more reliable,although I accept more expensive.
  7. I like it. Something different to the usual boats you see on canals. I'd like to do something like that,but I fear I don't have sufficient skills to make a very good job of it. Whats the hull made of? Is it narrow beam? (6'-10")
  8. Why not buy a used skip,nail a B+Q shed on top, stick an old Seagull outboard on it and self certify to RCD requirements. Much cheaper and arguably better looking. 😃
  9. Yes,comprehensive photos will help the BMC experts on here (not me) give proper advice.
  10. I no longer own the boat illustrated,but I can give a verbal description of it's cooling system from memory. I fitted a 72 degree thermostat as that was the coolest one I could find for the BMC 1500. The engine coolant circulation pump was removed and a blanking plate fabricated for the hole. A foot mountedJabsco pump was mounted on a substantial bracket and bolted to the engine,can't remember where exactly. One of the blanking bolts on the cylinder head was replaced with a hose connection for flushing the water jacket. The pump,and alternator were driven by a single belt. A restrictor was put in the bypass (a piece of smaller diameter tubing) to slightly increase the pressure in the system.Not by much,as a Jabsco pump with it's rubber vanes will not pressurise the system.It was trial and error to get the right diameter restrictor.Without the restrictor water used to squirt about six inches at tickover and about nine inches when cruising from the hull outlet.After fitting the restrictor it was about three inches and six inches. It all worked well and never overheated even on the river,however,a pre cruise check was necessary to clear any bits of weed from the inlet strainer and the water filter. Also when filling the water tank I would put the hose on the connection on the engine and flush the water jacket. Usually a few seconds of brownish water used to squirt from the hull outlet and then run clear.
  11. I think just do the installation as you think it is safe. Then if an inspector fails it,simply do what he says to comply with the BSS (or his) rules. As has been pointed out, inspectors do vary.
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  15. The most commonly used fibreglass resin is polyester,used in the layup of most grp boats.It is not the best to use for repairs because it doesn't stick very well. Some of the more expensive sailing boats are built using epoxy resin and aircraft too. Epoxy sticks much better than polyester so is better to use for repairs. It is though,rather more expensive. Both resins,as far as I am aware,are subject to degredation due to sunlight,so need either gelcoat or paint for protection.
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