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dor

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dor last won the day on January 20 2014

dor had the most liked content!

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About dor

  • Birthday 08/02/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cheshire
  • Interests
    Boating, natural history and staying alive

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Boat Name
    Aeshna
  • Boat Location
    Henhull, Shropshire Union

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    Private
  • Website URL
    http://www.elginpark.co.uk

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. He just doesn’t know when to stop! He might have got away with it without the video evidence, which clearly showed what went on. No need to hear “the other side “ Hope I never have the misfortune to meet him.
  2. Although the report above does say that it is not normally caught by swallowing water, I.e. by mouth.
  3. I would suggest leaving it until August. The water in a canal at this time of year (and for a few more months) can be colder than the North Sea in winter.
  4. I've used the calorifier as a heat exchanger to warm up the radiators. I have a temperature sensor on the calorifier so I can see if it drops the temperature. I've fitted a switch to turn on the boiler pump without affecting the boiler. On this boat the radiators will get quite warm, but not really hot. A similar arrangement on my last boat made the rads much hotter. The temperature on the calorifier doesn't drop, so the heat going in from the engine is the same or more than is being taken out. The engine feed to the calorifier is at full temperature, i.e. thermostat fully open, even when just normally cruising, so it isn't overcooling the engine. It does help to take the chill off the boat and dry the towels, but doesn't get as hot as with the boiler. It needs careful balancing between the rads and calorifier (I've got 22mm full flow valves on each circuit) to get the best heat.
  5. I did similar once, using a computer fan over a round access hole, running continually for a few days. The low current meant the batteries easily coped with the load.
  6. It long predates the merest glimmer of a stay or leave referendum. I think it has been removed for a few years now, presumably because the ownership of the property changed.
  7. Agree with Jen and Sam about thinking carefully about where the electrics are going to go, and keep all gas and water plumbing accessible. When i had my lined sailaway built I had a detailed diagram of where everything was to go, done using Excel with square cells = 1ft (basically 42 x 6). I also visited the builder almost daily and as well as discussing progress, took plenty of photos of what was where before the final lining was fixed. Those photos have proved useful on several occasions.
  8. Having occasionally had to do the "hold a big spanner across the battery terminals" trick, whilst avoiding the whirly bits at the front, I decided I might do it, but I don't want my wife trying it. OK yes it would be easier to use a jump lead, but I have got one on the boat. So I have wired a HD isolator switch between the leisure battery and the starter battery. This is, of course, normally left off, but can be turned on if the starter battery is being reluctant to start the engine. It has the added benefit that, when the boat is unoccupied, it could be left on to allow the solar to charge the starter battery. OK, this does mean that if something was left on, or bilge pump stuck on it could drain everything, but it hasn't happened yet.
  9. Didn't have a problem earlier this year with Harecastle, just made sure the fire was low and not smoking (burning Excel). The tunnel-keeper was aware that the stove was lit. But do remember to remove your chimney or the tunnel will do it for you.
  10. The Vetus-branded alternators have a weakness for blowing the regulator. These can be bought on eBay for about £15-20 and are very easy to replace. I have done it even without removing the alternator, as long as you can get the back off. However it could be the diode pack that failed, also easy to replace . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-REPLACEMENT-ISKRA-LETRIKA-JOHN-DEERE-NEW-HOLLAND-ALTERNATOR-REGULATOR-231045-/283649204372?hash=item420acf6094 If you are not sure about this, take it to an alternator repairer. If it just the regulator they will probably charge about £40 and may throw in new bearings. If it's the diode pack then maybe £70. While you are at it, get the Cargo 14.7V regulator which will give you much better charging, better than a Sterling external regulator which always seem to go into float too soon.
  11. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  12. Is it on the towpath side? If so you don't stand a chance.
  13. Well why else? Llangollen Canal Location: Bridge 1, Hurleston Bridge to Lock 1, Hurleston Lock - Llangollen Canal Starts At: Bridge 1, Hurleston Bridge Ends At: Lock 1, Hurleston Locks Up Stream Winding Hole: Stoneley Green Down Stream Winding Hole: Poolehill Monday 2 December 2019 08:00 until Friday 20 December 2019 18:00 Type: Advice Reason: 3rd Party Works Original message: Please be advised third party contractors will be onsite between Bridge 1, Hurleston Bridge and Lock 1, Hurleston Lock on the Llangollen to install electric cables to the canal. Whilst the towpath will remain open, please note that the canal is closed in this area for the winter repairs at lock 4.
  14. I've got a 1/4" set in a small box, along with a few torx and screwdriver heads and adaptor to the 1/4" drive. Very useful for odd little jobs but only goes up to 10mm. I've also got a combined metric/AF 3/8" set with 3/8"-1/4" adaptor which is what I use mostly when a socket set is called for. It goes up to 17mm which covers most things. Both are 'cheap' 'budget' sets but I've had them for years (the 3/8" came from my F-i-L and is probably 40 years old) and have only had to replace the 13mm socket which became too worn. I occasionally have to resort to my 1/2" set for things like removing the gearbox or cylinder head which thankfully doesn't happen very often.
  15. When I did my fitout I used a surveyor to oversee the build. He paid two visits to the fabricators (resulting in some additional welding and rewelding after pulling in the overwide sides), visited me during my work three times before finally doing the stability checks and gas certificate. Although it wasn’t actually needed he issued a BSC and prepared the RCD documentation. Also available for advice by phone at any time. I was an experienced boater , but wanted to be sure it was done right. £650 (2007 price) well spent in my view.
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