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Everything posted by dor

  1. Ok, I accept I am wrong. Maybe things have tightened up a bit these days. However we still see plenty of comments suggesting people don’t really take the RCD that seriously, many not seeing the need for it at all.
  2. But the point I made was that you substituted your own details where appropriate. I.e. you just used it as a template. If a surveyor was preparing the documentation, they will use a template as well. I didn’t suggest you made a like for like copy. Things like your gas will be covered by the surveyor doing the BSC (assuming he/she was qualified for lpg ( boats).
  3. Forgive me if I am wrong, my direct experience of this is about ten years old. Back then it was certainly not unusual for people to prepare their own documentation on completing their fit out on an Annexe lll shell or sail away. I'm not convinced that using someone else's documentation as a template would count as fraud. They could licence their boat for12 months on the back of an Annexe lll and then get a BSC to cover the fit out so far completed. I appreciate Alan that you have gone into the documents in far greater detail than me so thanks for correcting my understanding.
  4. The easiest way to do the RCD documentation is to borrow someone else’s who has a boat that is not too wildly different. Copy the document, changing words, names and figures as appropriate. Make sure you have covered the main items, e.g. if you have a sf stove and the source document doesn’t then check another document that does. This does of course require the original RCD to be properly done, preferably by a named surveyor. Private “pleasure” boats only need to be self- certified, and I have seen some that really were a joke. It’s different for liveaboards, but then you just “spend a lot of time on your boat “. Nobody will ever look beyond the first page anyway. Principal cost? A few pints of beer or whatever your local “favour” currency is.
  5. It’s the very last ultimate bit of the uxter plate. And yes, I also thought the ‘weight’ was a nice little pun.
  6. Before you consider anything else, you need to cost up a complete overplating below the water line. If you are only starting with 3/16" you are already at the limit before you account for any pitting. The cost of replating may well blow most (if not all) of your budget. Don't forget to include the cost of moving the boat and preparation. You may be better off keeping it as a source of parts and start with something that will float. ETA: with a lightweight top and 6mm overplating, it may well float too low in the water to be practical.
  7. Most of my blue antifreeze is several years old. However I do add some Screwfix corrosion inhibitor every couple of years. Particularly relevant as my boiler has an aluminium heat exchanger. No problems after twelve years.
  8. My Stovax Brunel 1A will just about stay in overnight with the vents all shut down. I put this down to the design of the top vent, which is a fairly loose piece of sliding iron which doesn't seal completely like a wheel on a Squirrel. However when it is windy the stove will burn quite brightly due to the extra draw. In the recent winds it seemed to burn more than normal so I am a bit suspicious of the rope seal on the bottom door, so I am going to fit new rope and see if that improves the control.
  9. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  10. Assuming you are referring to my post, yes it is welded. The pipe is steel about 4mm thick and 4" diameter. I suspect it is used for drains normally, but is just right for a stove with a 5" collar. (figures are approximate - gap between pipe and collar is a few mm all round) I had someone make it up for me, so they did the cutting and welding. Initially, the bottom of the pipe was rested on a small bit of wood to hold it off the top plate. The top of the flue is flush with the top of the collar. Stove door rope is pushed down to centre the pipe in the collar, then the gap is filled with high temperature silicone ('Delta" - good for 300C). The bit of wood at the bottom is then removed and the pipe drops a bit, and has rope and high temperature silicone the same as the top. I've never had a problem with the 300 degC silicone, but then the top of the stove has never started glowing cherry red ... Starting with that gap at the bottom and using silicone means the flue pipe can move a little in the collars. If it is too rigid it can crack the top plate of the stove when it gets hot and expands. The pipe at the bottom didn't need any modifications to cope with the angle.
  11. My flue is fitted in the stove collar at an angle to match the tumblehome, with a piece at the top angled so it goes through the roof collar straight and centred.
  12. I could understand someone wanting a SS water tank, but that is down to personal choice and not really a reason for dropping the price. As for lifting all the floor, blasting the inside and then having it coated? I think they may struggle to find a boat in their price range (presumably not that big if looking at an '80s boat) where that has been done or needed.
  13. dor

    Snooker rules!

    It's years since I've played snooker, but I thought that the coloured ball would be put on the next highest spot if its own one was occupied. So if the green spot was free, then that would be used for re-spotting the yellow if the yellow spot was blocked.
  14. I use my phone to give me a 4G hotspot, and my contract gives me 12Gb of data which is normally plenty (we don't use it for streaming films etc.). However I've noticed that some of the newer 'unlimited' tethered data SIMS are limited to 2Mb/s download speed which is something to watch out for.
  15. I remember Stingo, brewed by Watneys I believe. The only beer that gave you a bigger headache than Red Barrel.
  16. Sounds like what used to be called 'barley wine'. Sold in "nips", 1/3 of a pint bottles. Usually about 9-10% alcohol.
  17. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  18. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  19. Can’t understand how anyone can complain about the light output of LEDs, assuming the output is matched. I’ve got a LED torch (from screwfix). It is at least as bright as a car headlight. It all comes from a single LED that is 5mm square. And a single charge lasts for hours.
  20. Is it a Vetus by any chance. If it is then it is likely the fault lies with the little black box on the back of the engine. This contains two relays, one for the heaters the other for the starter solenoid. Jiggling the relay will clear the problem, following by a good clean-up of the terminals at a more convenient time.
  21. This ^^^^ I know it might seem obvious, but The temperature sensor needs to be removed at the charger end, not just removed from the battery.
  22. dor

    Goodnight folks

    What IS that black Labrador doing?
  23. I have a plastic tube tied t a stick. I dip this in the tank and siphon out the bottom of the tank. Sometimes I just get apparently clean fuel but other times I draw off water, anything up to several litres. Also often get black blobs . I have only once had the primary filter block with black sludge, that time I siphoned off quite a bit of water and sludge. Didn’t go for the full polishing, but added some Marine 16 and repeated the siphoning a couple of times. Normally the filter is clean, but I still change it regularly, they are cheap enough from Inlinefilters. But when I have seen some crud, it could appear to be drawing in air, but. It isn’t. Are you sure it’s not just your filter clogging up? The filter shouldn’t block enough to give a significant pressure drop across it on a regular basis. I would just try and get your diesel clean and check regularly for water, especially if you are getting the fuel from an unfamiliar source.
  24. Looking at the type and state of those batteries, and the horrific wiring that is attached to them, I really wonder what the rest of the boat is like. I suspect that the cost of the boat and bringing it up to an acceptable (not to mention legal) condition that will be suitable for letting will far exceed the revenue the boat will generate. Could you give us some more details of the boat itself? If so, then the help available on this site will be more focused and far more useful to you.
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