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    Inland Waterways

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    Musician, DJ, Muppet
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  1. Unfortunately not much footage of Eva Cassidy exists and what does is poor quality shot in small clubs. But I'm very glad someone took the time to make some recordings. Once in a generation singer
  2. With crew: Often the lock keeper will pass the stern line around a bollard and back down to you at the stern. The same for the bow line for a second crew member positioned on the bow. Single handed: The lock keeper will pass the stern line around a bollard and back down to you at the stern And an extended bow line around a bollard adjacent to the bow and pass the bow line back to you again at the stern - so you have to manage two lines - one in each hand. ( I extended my bow line by attaching a spare mooring line to it using a sheet bend - works perfectly fine. - But after doing this for a while I decided for two main reasons that: I prefer to come alongside in the lock, chuck the stern line up to the lockie, switch engine off, then walk up the stairs with the bow line, secure it on the front bollard, check the stern line on the back bollard, then stand between the two bollards and manage the slack on both lines from the lockside. I have far more control and I find it too much of a handful trying to keep 2 long lines taut while on the boat - especially without a 3rd hand to steady myself. (the safety maxim "one hand for you, one for the boat" cannot be applied ) Plus one is at a mechanical disadvantage attempting to keep the 2 much longer lines taut from the back of the boat.
  3. In my original post I was going to add; "in which case run for the knife" Once the situation has been allowed to develop that far, yes it's the 1%. Which adds even more weight to Jen in Wellies point which is; we'd all do well to carry a sharp knife in our pockets when doing locks. Which is excellent advice and something I'm acting upon .
  4. It's tempting to use just the centreline on the Thames locks (when you can get away with it) but securing both ends is actually very good advice as I found out when I went uphill in a sidefill lock of which there are at least 2 on the Thames. As the name suggests the water floods the chamber from the sides, not the bottom. The sideways water pressure pushed my bow hard off towards the middle at about 30 degrees, stern hard against the lock side with the centre line taut. There wasn't much I could do about it until the lock has filling had slowed down. No significant listing, but the fact is, there were other boats in the lock and I wasn't in 100% control of mine. Fortunately it didn't bash into a fibreglass cruiser. More embarrassing than anything. I did chat with a lockie after - who told me it was a Sidefill lock and that was why the boat swung out and that it's a bit of a tricky lock and warned me of the next one up river. I asked him why it had been designed that way. He did give a long detailed explanation which kind of amounted to "because that's how they designed it" Another thing I learned single-handing Thames locks is to get off the boat onto the lock side and manage both lines myself - taking in slack etc as the boat rises.
  5. There's a difference between a round turn(s) on a bollard that has: 1. the standing end (the end attached to the boat) lowermost - below the coil. 2. the standing end uppermost (above the coil) It's a very good ideal to get to know the difference between the two and practice how to "tie" both versions Version 1 will lock the centreline against the lip of the bollard once the roof rises above the bollard. Version 2 won't. Rule of thumb: if the boat is going up in the lock, your rope's standing end (end attached to the boat) should be up if you boat's going down, the standing end should be down. If you line does get locked against the lip of a bollard. Don't panic, put your foot on the taut line and put your weight on it, 99% of the time it'll be enough to unlock the rope underneath, freeing it. Don't ask me how I know.
  6. The photos are a little misleading. Mooring lines normally have an eye spliced onto the end. Pass the working end through the eye to make a loop. Put that loop over the dolly and pull tight. Once you see how it works you can move onto expert level and turn the eye back on itself - as David Mack mentioned upthread
  7. re: keeping a knife to hand - and that almost nobody does: True. A sunken boat is an absolute disaster. A severed mooring rope - easily replaced for 15 quid - not so much. I have a sharp swiss army knife on a hook just behind the front door - but in many/most emergency circumstances that just isn't accessible enough. Re-think required. (ex caver here btw)
  8. I think we're talking past each other! My reply was not about you in particular. The context of this thread is: "how do I get a rope NOT to slip off a narrowboat dolly when it's pulled vertically upwards in a deep lock" as asked by the original poster. To clarify my last reply: Depending on which result is required, either: 1. Rope to stay on the dolly 2. Rope to slip off - for safety reasons One must choose how to attach the rope accordingly. Both attachments methods cannot exist simultaneously. i.e. one cannot have it both ways. edit: Reading back through the thread just now I think we're agreeing with each other 😆 i.e the larksfoot malarkey is a simple and easy way to firmly attach a line to a stern dolly
  9. Well, you can't have it both ways. Either: 1. You want the rope NOT to slip off the dolly in deep locks (as the O.P. wanted) or 2. You want the rope to slip off the dolly Pick the one appropriate to the situation.
  10. Also known as a Cow Hitch Because there's usually and eye spliced on mooring ropes, there will only be one line that passes around the dolly and fed through the loop.
  11. 1. Yes 2. Yes 3. Yes and.. 4. Yes
  12. Dawn on Tixall Wide, Stafford & Worcester 10:30pm Sunset summer solstice, Shropshire Union (last night) Wheaton Aston, Shropshire Union Early morning - Tixall Wide
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