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    New Forest

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    Currently on the South Oxford

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  1. Thanks for your comments. I should have stated that the tank is part of the hull. I have not been able to work out exactly where the leak is. I would need to refill the water tank to find out. I might try a hammer test on the bulkhead to see how bad it is. A job for when we can travel after the COVID restriction lift. Colin
  2. My bow water tank has a pinhole leak and loses water into the bilge. This was found immediately after having the water tank stripped, cleaned and re-painted with standard potable paint. That should mean that the tank was rust free before painting. I am looking at possible means of repair and have found: Specialist Coatings who have effected repairs on narrow boat water tanks. Their product is a three layer non-toxic, (sort of) fibre glass loaded paint, conveniently in three different colours to aid application. No toxic or unpleasant vapours during application. Does anyone have
  3. Thank you for your input. I can confirm that the glow plugs have all individually tested across 12 v and ‘glow’ witnessed. The glow plug holes are regularly reamed with the appropriate drill (I have the Morse Taper version of the drill which makes reaming a doddle). The glow plugs are switched from the ignition switch and 11.8-12.2v arrives at the glow plug during the warming cycle. The glow plugs are not powered during the starter motor part of the cycle. I hold the glow plugs powered for about 30 seconds. The head was removed a year ago (for an unconnected issue) and the start
  4. Back on the boat for the first time since lock down kicked in, with a diesel compression tester. Test 1: remove glowplug 1, stop fuel, crank and measure. Step an repeat 1-4. All with engine cold and not having run since mid March. Cylinders: 1 390, 2 410, 3 410, 4 410 Start engine and run until warm repeat test: 1 410, 2 430, 3 430, 4 420 This does not seem too bad to me. After the tests the engine started immediately ok. This is beginning to sound like a colder weather issue to me. I will try again tomorrow and see what , if any starting issues the
  5. Thanks guys, this is all sounding a bit expensive...
  6. When the engine is running, it runs well and there is no noticeable tappet noises or irregular sounds. The engine sounds smooth when running which is why I have not looked at the valve clearances in this context. I checked the cylinder bores by finger for any scoring or damage and all was (in my opinion) very good with minimal noticeable wear. With each cylinder at TDC there was no detectable slop or movement that I could induce in the pistons to indicate wear. Not very scientific I know but it is about my limit of knowledge. There was no detectable carbon or oil build-up in the cylinder
  7. Tony, Thanks for your reply. Getting to another engine may not be easy, but I will try that one... I will change the fuel filter. It is a spin-on replacement as I could not get on with the original one. It may well be due for replacement, I will check when I return to the boat tomorrow. I had the head off about a year ago (one of the exhaust manifold bolts had sheared off and needed drilling out), The valve clearances have not been checked since about 20 hours after that job was completed, so about 220 engine run hours ago. Colin
  8. Tony & Richard, Thank you for your input on this... I can confirm that I regularly (and have done so within the last few days): Reamed the glow plug holes with the appropriately sized drill, tested the DC resistance of the plugs (3 @ 3.5ohms and one at 2.1ohms, the latter being a replacement with a quicker warm-up and higher current. They glow when placed across a 12V battery, the higher resistance ones drawing about 4A and the lower resistance one about 8A. I am not aware of any fuel leakage into the engine (dip-stick levels have never risen). T
  9. It does take time before white smoke appears and (from memory) it is erratic white puffs rather than a streaming cloud then becomes a cloud, then starts. Glow plugs tested and all OK, 12V arriving at glow plugs, tested by meter. I am at Fenny Compton Marina and was looking to get a replacement injection pump from Warwick (by car).
  10. Every morning I have the same problem. It takes an awful lot of cranking to get my engine started. Once started, it runs like a dream. If I start the engine again (say after lunch) starts immediately. Can repeat this all day. I am confident enough to be able to stop/start at locks etc., during the day. Next morning, an awful lot of cranking to get her going. Then runs like a dream all day. Whilst talking to my local garage diesel mechanic, his diagnosis (from a distance) was that the diesel injection pump was internally worn and that fuel was leaking back overnight. The eng
  11. I have taken many routers apart for scrapping & recycling. All the ones I have looked at have a voltage regulator chip in them capable of =/<15v* and the input capacitors have been 16V jobbies. The internals of a router all run at 5V The normal charge voltage when the engine is running would be 14.4v (mine is). This represents a 20% over voltage. I would be quite happy to run my router off my 12v whether the engine is running or not. * I don't know how to make the equal to or greater symbol from the keyboard!
  12. I have just looked at Blue Sea 6007 switch which looks good by specification and would replace my Off/1/Both/2 switch. It is about £59 or so.
  13. Tony, Thank you for your prompt reply. I will attend to this matter as soon as I can rather than wait for the next BSS. I will hunt down a good Master Switch
  14. I have just had an issue with my starter motor failing (as deduced by RCR). Having replaced the starter motor I am not sure that was the issue. Normally when starting the voltage as indicated on my panel (analogue meters) drops to about 10.5V whilst cranking. With the issue (for which I called RCR) I noticed that the cranking volts seemed to drop lower - about 8-9v. This meant the starter motor failed to turn the engine over correctly and made an 'orrible noise. RCR checked my batteries with a drop tester and deemed them OK. Whilst re-connecting the new starter motor I traced th
  15. I will check the markings on the Injector Pump. The injectors were purchased from Calcutt: http://calcuttboatsshop.com/epages/c3a6cb0f-3e0f-4132-9636-974f7502e04d.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/c3a6cb0f-3e0f-4132-9636-974f7502e04d/Products/CR5333102REC The 12V feed comes via the Ignition key to the 2nd glowplug. I will look at purchasing a relay to improve the voltage arriving at the glowplugs. I have examined the glowplugs in some detail on a bench power supply, that is how I derived my glowplug current draws. There appear to be (at least) two types of glowplug. The old, or
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