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Philip

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  1. Booking office ticket clerk, certainly not underpayed by any means but a little uncertain right now given the big drop-off in rail travel and the likely slow recovery!
  2. Thanks for the feedback. One thing that has always concerned me a bit about the concept of living aboard is how much does it take away the 'novelty' factor of a canal holiday or the canal life? Always found one of the joys of canal boating is making that journey down to the boat from home or work, loading all the gear onboard, engine checks, kettle on/beers opened, untie and off you go.. Do you still get this same pleasure when you live on the boat permanently?
  3. Just interested to know people's opinions about owning both a boat and a property (be it a flat, house, whatever), particularly from those who have both. The narrowboat I have bought is 25ft long, so the running costs won't be as high of course. I don't own a house as you can probably guess. I work in railway, in the retail side or things, so not earning anywhere near what a driver earns! I'm single and don't have children. Just based on this, is even owning a short boat really affordable in addition to a house? I'm not looking to either live onboard or buy a house at
  4. Can't see the picture? I did the Grand Union mainline for the first time last year, and the vast majority of the locks between Brentford and Braunston had two centre paddles on each top gate, like in the top pic. Looking at GU lock photos from 10 or more years ago, it looks like many have been re-fitted in recent years.
  5. Thanks all. Interesting the Grand Union has kept its original lock gear, why did some canals' locks have to be 'modernised'?
  6. I don't know where it is, but the paddle gear looks like the Grand Junction/Leicester section type. Any ideas?
  7. Have to admit I don't like the thought of holidaymakers who would normally be taking their 'must-have' exotic foreign holiday this year, instead clogging up the canals and lengthening the queues at locks!
  8. I was thinking about condensation and blowing dry air directly from the outside through the boat to help with this. But the boat is well vented anyway so perhaps this isn't much of an issue. One of the rear step hatches has a vent in it, as does the dinette seat hatch, so if I put the matrix in either of these then this could draw air in from the cabin. Here's a picture...
  9. In terms of location I'm thinking of either putting the unit in one of the step hatches at the back, or in the hatch under the rear dinette seat. But to work properly it would need a vent to draw air from outside into the hatch. I know this means drilling a hole in the side of the boat, so how big should the hole be to draw sufficient air from outside?
  10. These were diagrams I found on google. To simplify: Engine > 3-way diverter valve > calorifier or heater or both > Return pipe from calorifier back to engine with T from heater matrix return pipe inserted. This look about right?
  11. Thanks. Are these two diagrams good to follow? (minus the radiator and calorifier balancing valve)
  12. This is the bit that confuses me. I thought the heat loss to the calorifier would be caused by plumbing it into the engine>calorifier pipe, rather than the return pipe from the calorifier back to the engine? As heat would be lost while the hot water travels to the heater before it reaches the calorifier. I know about the manual 3-way valve though, was thinking of fitting one to the system.
  13. I've bought this car heater matrix for my Aintree Beetle narrowboat, going to plumb from the calorifier return feed to the engine to use the hot coolant water to blow hot air into the cabin whilst on the move. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/all-in-one-compact-car-heater-with-vents-and-valve I notice a few things, 4.3kw heat output - nice and toasty? Also it draws 5.8 amps from the battery and is 75 watts, will this be ok for when the engine is running?
  14. I think from what I've read here and giving some thought it might be worth just sticking with the 16hp, but perhaps welding in the second skin tank to provide extra cooling if needing to use high revs for a while. Even without buying a new engine it'd quite a job swapping the engines around and having to adapt each to the different transmission and cooling arrangements. Only 105 hours on this Beta 16, compared to the 1500 on the 20hp in my cruiser. Anyone know roughly how big the fuel saving is between the 16 and 20hp engines, assuming both are geared and propped correctly?
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