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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Man 'o Kent

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  1. Just goes too prove me point, them ones is rusty 'cos they 'aint got no wool!
  2. Been watching this thread with interest as I am involved with a boat that apparently need work on its bearing too. That notch on the inboard end of the bearing sleeve. They did not faff about machining that notch in it to save weight! That notch is there to engage on something in the stern tube. That is not to say the mating part was ever fitted to the boat in this instance. One small tip: Get yourself a pot of Wool Fat, (Anhydrous Lanolin), from your local chemist, (it'll last a lifetime). A drop smeared onto any threads or other parts likely to be subject to rusting and they will always come apart. A bit sticky at first but eventually develops a skin and is nothing compared to a siezed bolt. Let's face it, when did you last see a rusty sheep?!
  3. Small point: Use a "figure of eight" motion not a circular one and certainly not linear strokes, also rotate the part a quarter turn in your hand from time to time. It is all about randomizing the applied pressure to get the desired flat surface. Not super critical in this instance due to the use of a soft gasket but worth adopting if flatness is a critical requirement.
  4. As you are restricted for space in which to swing a hammer remember that it isn't just velocity you need, it's mass too. Try to find the head of a lump hammer or its like, it just needs to be as big as you can handle. Short clouts will impart as much energy as a full blooded swing with a hammer. (Just remember to change hands when you get to 99 or you'll finish up half Popeye & half Olive Oyle !!!) There are also freezer concoctions used by plumbers, if you were to build a dam in plasticine around the hexagon and fill it with this stuff I would expect it to shrink the immersion's thread enough to "crack" the hold between calorifier thread and heater. There will be conduction between immersion and calorifier off course so heating the calorifier will help maintain a temperature difference. Of course if you could get your hands after some liquid Nitrogen . . . . It is also possible to hire eddy current heaters but for this you would need a reliable mains electricity supply, you would also need one with a large enough loop to go around the hexagon, possibly a big ask. The up side is that an eddy current heater can get things very hot which might be enough to soften any sealant that hads been applied to the thread, the down side is that you could get the thing hot enough to melt soft solder.
  5. Possibly something to do with the stop line defences built post Dunkirk?
  6. OK, bear with me here, I lined my steel workshop, (modified DIY build garage unit), with 50mm Celotex glued on with a no particular brand "no-nails" type glue. Five years later nothing has fallen down and there has been no evidence of condensation problems, the pre-painted steel sheet walls/roof are very thin material and exposed to all weathers and temperature extremes. Given that the assembly is liable to far more stresses, hot sun, thin material, expansion/contraction and has stood up to it I cannot but think that the thicker and therefore more stable construction of a narrowboat would lend itself to similar treatment. I note that you envisage it as a liveaboard, in that case I think you should seriously consider a thicker material, say 50mm. While the loss of 100mm (4") of internal width might be thought a problem it can be mitigated by careful choice of facing trim.
  7. I once saw some advice along the lines of: "Beware of doing business with any company that has just installed a new fountain in the foyer and where the chairman has just got himself a shiny new Rolls Royce." The fountain is there to convince everyone that organization is doing just fine while the Roller is the boss ripping off the last of the company assets before the collapse. Fancy new logos, lots of PR posers and advertising, farming out work to contractors so that nobody gets to carry the can. Half the country flooded and now there is no water. Six inch diameter trees, even ones growing out of the canal bed, don't appear overnight by magic. (Seen somewhere between the Middlewich and the Lea last year, on the Oxford if memory serves) Burning -- fiddle -- Nero . . .
  8. If you are prepared to try a DIY rust treatment then try the following: You will need the following materials: De-ionized Water, Phosphoric Acid, Tannic Acid and Alcohol. None of these materials are particularly hazardous but take due care, rubber gloves, eye protection, etc. are advisable. Make up a 10% solution of Phosphoric Acid in the de-ionized water. Tannic Acid is not miscible in water so dissolve in a small quantity of Alcohol first. Mix sufficient Tannic Acid to make a 5% solution and add to the previously prepared Phosphoric Acid. To use remove all loose material before application. This mixture is watery, fine for the bilges of my old boat so I never got around to finding a thickening agent. Apply liberally with a paint brush and allow to dry, the rust will change colour to a mixture of grey/black/purple/white. Because there is a chemical reaction the oxide layer will change in size, flakes and patches will loosen. It will be necessary to go over the area with something like a wire brush. Any rusty looking spots so exposed will require one or more further application. This particular "witch's brew" was gifted to me by a University Chemistry Department employee, he explained that the Phosphoric Acid converts the iron oxide into more stable Iron Phosphate and explained that the rust pits form a kind of battery that apparently accelerated the conversion of Iron into Iron Oxide. The Tannic Acid in the mixture when dry forms an insulating layer in the pits thus stopping the electrical activity. This was his spiel, I am no chemist so don't blame me, I offer it for what it is worth, all I know is that it worked for me, the resulting surface took paint well and I saw no further evidence of rust during my ownership of the boat.
  9. Only as long as you put them under the bricks and not around the corners between them . . .
  10. Those + shaped domestic tile spacers work.
  11. Anticipation -------------- the projectile that just missed you is a lot less scary than the prospect of the one that is still on its way . . .
  12. Daleks? Cybermen? --- Pussy cats! Now if you want real back-of-the-neck stuff what about the original TV serial "Quatermass and the Pit"? My mother worked at the local junior school where Mr. Morgan was the school caretaker and he had a television set. Because they were pals I was allowed to go round to his house to watch it. There was only one snag, the Avenue was several hundred yards long, lined on both sides with trees and shrubs and shadows with just one gas lamp on the corner at the far end ----- and it was dark by the time it was over. I tell you Linford Christie couldn't have held a candle to me, I could do it in about 10 seconds flat . . .
  13. Those two instruments look to be a cut above the usual bargain basement offerings more commonly seen, as a result I would suggest that they deserve to be treated accordingly. Real lacquer will last decades if done properly but requires more than a modicum of skill to do, modern coatings on a quality instrument just don't cut it for me. "Don't spoil a good ship for a ha'p'orth of tar", they are nice instruments and worth having done sympathetically.
  14. I was not intending to suggest evacuated glass tube collectors for narrowboats! Even my over active imagination cannot begin to guess at all the ways that might be a problem. It was just offered an example of the sort of high-tec. solutions that are about. If you want lo-tec then I will take you back to the summer of 1976. We took my sloop into the tide mill basin at Woodbridge for a short layover so that we could visit the Sutton Hoo site. The operators of the mooring pontoons had laid on a fresh water service via black plastic hose, the water that came out was far too hot even for hand washing. And to add a complete red herring to this thread it was there that I found out the boat was quite unsteerable going backwards under power. The operators had insisted we moored stern too, after two or three abortive attempts we backed her in under jib alone with no dramas much to the consternation of the "interested" onlookers who were anticipating some sort of drama.
  15. The most high tech. experimental collector I've seen consisted of a sealed and evacuated glass cylinder half silvered on its long axis. Sealed within this cylinder was a smaller tube coated with platinum black through which the fluid to be heated was passed. The silvering reflected and focused the sunlight onto the central tube while the platinum black coating significantly improved the energy transferred to the fluid. The efficiency on test was shown to be high but manufacturing costs would have been prohibitive for all but special applications.
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