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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Man 'o Kent

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  1. I have a dismantled National DM2, reputably of 1936 vintage. This engine has chromed bores with hundreds of dimples in the surface, I have no idea if this was OEM manufacture, possibly not as there is evidence of a major rebuild at some time in its life. The pistons when removed were is an excellent state with no galling of the skirts. The pistons were fitted with a full set of rings and the crankcase splash guards were in place. Regarding the thin top groove, my thinking is that there are two possible reasons for its existence. Firstly as a heat barrier and secondly to limit heat induced distortion or both. Interestingly neither groove shows any build-up of carbon. I also have an original copy of the Russell Newbery Spare Parts List for 'D' Type multi-cylinder engines", publishment date unknown but the address listed on the cover is "Essex Works, Dagenham, Essex" which might help date it. The sectional drawing in the back shows a DM3 engine but most parts are of course interchangeable. The drawing shows that the RN pistons also had the thin top groove. If you are REALLY desperate I will try to find a way to scan/photograph you a copy of the RN parts list but I am more abacus than Win10 and I HATE laptops . . .
  2. Check that the antifreeze is compatible with aluminium. Back in the day when motor manufacturers started using aluminium for things like cylinder heads there were corrosion issues with the type of antifreeze then used, new formulations were soon introduced and vehicle manufacturers were wont to specify the type to use. Eberspacher have some light alloy parts, I say light alloy because I suspect there is a good deal of Zinc in the mix and that is likely to be bad news corrosion wise. I would be inclined to first find a car maker that utilizes alloy engines and see what they specify. You should then be able to use the same stuff with some confidence.
  3. Any fluid, (including air hot or not), under pressure presents a danger to some degree. Water is in many ways a remarkable material, one of its properties being its ability to absorbe energy, it takes an awful lot of heat to turn water into steam. When hot and under pressure as in a boiler all that stored energy is just itching to turn back into water. A pressure cooker is a different animal, it holds just a few tablespoons of water, hardly a major hazzard even at 5psi. If you really want to twitch snuggle up to your engine, the diesel in the injector lines is at 1,500/2,000psi . . .
  4. My first experience with a pressure cooker was as a small boy when we were staying at my Grandfather's house. I collided with my Grandmother in the hallway, she fleeing the noise in terror, me rushing towards the sound thinking my Grandfather had got a steam engine in the kitchen! They can hiss a bit if you have too much heat under them but that is the point, they require far less heat input to do the job. Spuds perfectly cooked in 10 minutes for example. In fact they are really very safe devices, they operate at low pressure,, (4 or 5 psi), they contain very little water so there is very little stored energy for an "explosion". ('Aint going to happen.) Why would a boater NOT want to use one? They use about 1/3rd of the gas, the food tastes better, there is less washing up and being a sealed container are a lot safer than saucepans of boiling water.
  5. Ten minuits in a pressure cooker -- utterly delicious! No grit and no burnt bit either . . .
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