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Man 'o Kent

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  1. Thank you David Mack and Mike Tee for your interest. I suspect David is right about it being a chain drive. Alas all I have here is the RN "Spare Parts List" which has a useful "sectional arrangement drawing" save that it does not include the hand start system. Sadly I am of an age and "locked down" 40 odd miles from the engine and despite having done pretty much the length of the country on the boat without it missing a beat it is surprising how much detail I didn't take in. Add to that I am using a pair of hands and eyes attached to an Arts Graduate, (willing enough and learning but still very green), to get anything done. Remote problem solving reminds me of an early computer programming exercise. The object was to instruct a person to safely cross the road by following instructions from people who are unsighted. "Take one step forward, are you at the kerb?"- No. "Take one step forward, are you at the kerb?"- Yes. "Look right and left, are there any vehicles within 50ft of you?" etc. After much faffing around and no success at crossing the road one person in desperation looked out of the window to find out what was going wrong. There was indeed a vehicle within 50ft. --- it was PARKED . . . The definition of stupid might be doing the same thing more than once and expecting a different outcome. In this case running out of diesel -- TWICE in a month. Unfortunately winding the engine over to bleed the system would see to have either killed the battery or the starter solenoid or both. Hence my interest in reinstating the hand start if only to provide an alternate way of turning the engine over. I take the point about "ticking" pawls, maybe it could modifed to take a spragg clutch. Eventually I will get to the boat always 'sposing I dodge this wretched virus and things may then become easier. In the mean time is there any source of drawings for these engines? Also does anyone happen to know the part number for the Lucas starter solenoid? The part numbers I have been given are not producing any useful results.
  2. Russell Newbery DM2, year of manufacture unknown, Engine No. 22B (or E) 1392. This engine would at first sight seem to be equipped with a hand start mechanism right down to and including the starting handle. However there is no connection to the engine and the decompressors seem to have been disabled. The latter would imply that this is how the engine was built rather than a component failure. The engine is fitted with a Lucas starter motor and has been an entirely reliable starter in all conditions. My question are (1) Has anyone come across an engine set up thus? (2) Has anyone reinstated the hand start? (3) How much grief is involved in getting at the mechanism? I would add that I have the experience to address the problem and a machine shop to back it up but forewarned is forearmed.
  3. Oh! Very good! My thanks for giving me a good chuckle.. On the other hand it is worth noting that I spent many years working at one London College's Engineering Department and I can tell you that for all their brains 99% still have five thick stubby thumbs on each hand . . .
  4. As you admit to running dry and thus sucking up contaminated fuel I would also throw suspicion on the delivery valve(s), time maybe for a pump service?
  5. I think you'll find that R12 & R22 are no longer available as they are both serious Ozone destroyer.s. Very small leaks can be the very devil to trace. It also should be noted that there is a small quantity of lubricant mixed in with the gas that is carried around the system and lubricates the pump. Less gas means less lubrication means more wear. A mechanical pump will have some form of valve(s), a failure here will result in no pressurization so no cooling even if the pump is still running. On balance I think it is time to consider a new refrigerator, the new designs are more energy efficient anyway.
  6. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  7. The world, by and large, is divided into two sorts of people, them as does a good job and them as talks a good job.
  8. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  9. It's that Jay(?) bloke that gets up my nose. Swans around, steals as much credit for other peoples graft as he can and I've yet to see him do a stroke of work. Does he think he is management or something?
  10. I would not expect on an engine of that age that the threads would be metric. I owned a BMC car of about that vintage and all the threads, as far as I remember, were of the American Unified thread form, (60 degree flank angle), with A/F sized hexagon spanner sizes. The caveat here is that the injector pump and associated components were "bought in" parts and not of "in house" manufacture so it is essential to make sure what you are dealing with, Unified, Imperial or Metric. The O/D of a thread is a good guide but cannot be entirely relied on, thread forms can be modified for manufacturing convenience and wear, age and mistreatment can all have an effect. Often more reliable is the pitch of the thread at issue although even here previous abuse can muddy the water. As Tony Brooks says these pipes normally have formed ends which require the use of special forming tools. This means that the nuts are made captive on the pipe. Were it me and despite the cost I'd be seeing if I could not buy a new set of ready made pipes for this engine or if that is not possible locate somewhere that can make up a new set using the existing pipes as a pattern.
  11. Welding is certainly a possibility but it would seem that there is a design weakness there that resulted in the failure in the first place. If you do decide to go down the welding route than consider having some extra metal added to the repaired area to strengthen it.
  12. Excellent! Much nearer, thank you! I now have this vision of her plodding along the towpath towing the boat behind her!
  13. Many thanks BMW noted and will pass your suggestion on to her. Pity he's on the other side of London but as she is a non-driver I know she knows how to use the bus & tube. It'll be her punishment for runnung out of fuel -- TWICE!
  14. Bengo thank you for your contribution. I do rather like your idea of submitting the injectors for checking along with the pump. From previous experience this engine has always been a willing starter and never missed a beat while I was several weeks on board. It produces a much complimented exhaust note, minimal smoke and good oil pressure, I'd rate the engine's condition as excellent. The situation with the hand start is a bit odd. I do not know the history of the engine but it would seem that the hand start might have been deliberately disconnected if not broken. Certainly the starting handle is present but the manual decompressors have been locked down. All a little odd but with such a sweet starter it was "one of them 'fing wot I'll investigate manana". It is all very frustrating, I have the kit and experience to address the problem, even the equipoment for testing injectors, but age, Covic and distance preclude my getting "hands on" She on the other hand is more than averagely intelligent and capable of following instructions. What she lacks is "touch", that certain "feel" that only come from experience. Her tool kit is somewhat limited too. Think I'll buy her a pair of oars for Christmas or maybe a horse . . .
  15. Thank you Bengo, your thoughts confirm much of what I suspected. Been in the engineering game for a working life including engine R&D so I am only too aware of the limits & fits on these components. Given distance and other problems I think it is a "pump off and get it seen to" job. It is interesting to note that after the first dry tank the suspect element did pick up once the engine started on the other cylinder and then proceeded to run happily on both cylinders until she did it again. It now seems she has exhausted the starter battery, the hand start has been disconnected or is broken so she is in real trouble!
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