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N.B. Elizabeth Hello, I’m Jim’s wife and after reading some of these comments on here I thought I had better put the record straight. Elizabeth is on the market because Jim has Alzheimer’s, and is now unable to lavish the care on her he once did. How do you put a price on the oldest surviving conversion of a narrowboat? we asked many people, some who worked with historic boats and some who owned them, everyone gave vastly different answers! we originally priced her at 60k to try to avoid her becoming a cheap live aboard, (Jim lived on her full time for 32 years, so nothing against live aboards) the price was always negotiable. We included the fact that she needs to be regularly maintained because with 83 year old wooden cabin she does! Foolishly we waited a year for a certain boat museum to get funding together to purchase her for their collection, as she is such an important boat, due to certain issues within their hierarchy we are still waiting and have frankly given up. Elizabeth has just been surveyed and the hull and engine are in very good order, her top is showing wear and tear but nothing that a little tlc can’t put right. We really hope that whoever purchases her will carry on caring for her the way Jim has over the last 53 years, she really is the most incredible vessel and I can guarantee the new custodians will never be short of conversation, because Elizabeth attracts attention wherever she goes. Annie

Turn off the mains and take that cover off (last photo) and you will find one or even two thermostats inside it, one will have the adjustable dial for temperature. Try turning it up a bit. If you need to change the thermostat then get the proper spanner and a spare gasket or two. ................Dave

You get the tank good and hot then just try to crack the nut, no more, once it moves drain the water down a bit. If you do it with the water pump off and open a hot tap there wont be any pressure in there. The water gives the cylinder both weight and rigidity

I sent an email complete with a photo and details of the green house type heaters I would be using to my insurers and they confirmed they are safe to use would not invalidate my policy.

A tubular or box spanner is a better bet, but if using one like David suggests, put two on at once, with the handles opposite each other. This balances the thrusts so there is only twisting force on the immersion and enables you to easily apply both hands to the job so applying most force. From your pictures the existing heater looks well scaled in! N

I wouldn’t have though that taking the battery up to a high SoC would increase imbalance, but it certainly shows it up more. I think it is true that high SoC is not good for longevity. But then when the batteries are likely to outlive their owners, does it matter? And as you’ve mentioned, it is perhaps keeping at 100% for long periods that is problematic, rather than charging to 100% and then immediately starting to discharge. I notice that with the latest version of iOS for my iPhone, they’ve introduced a thing called “optimised battery charging” which aims to charge only to 80% until shortly before you need it, by learning your charging routine. So in my case I plug the phone in when I go to bed around midnight, and get up around 8am. So the phone will charge to 80% between midnight and 1am, hold at 80% until 7am, then charge the last 20% in time for me to get up. Well something like that, I haven’t woken up in the middle of the night to check it! And of course those are lithium polymer batteries. So for my system I propose a selector knob, 50%, 80%, 100% or whatever. Normally left on 80% but if full capacity needed, switch can be moved to 100% an hour or so before end of cruising day. Or set it to 50% if arriving at the marina to leave the boat for a few weeks.

I'm not sure if the OP is living aboard or not? I wouldn't assume anything. I have foam/ply porthole bungs. I never touch the Morco flue and don't bother blocking vents anymore. The boat could freeze in 2-3 days if the temp gets low enough but keeping the boat ventilated and above 5C is better if you're a liveaboard and away for a few days. Anyway, I've been doing it my way for 15 years without a problem so I'll just carry on. Yes, if you don't have shore power forget about using an electric oil filled rad.

Because you signed it.

Is "Caroline" a pseudonym for Dianne Abbott?

One would assume that they have to wait until you move off. I assume their permit only gives them a space if there is space. So technically they could have to wait a little way off the moorings until a CCer moves off. But I can't imagine it happening like that in reality as the WMer will almost certainly feel entitled to "their" spot

I suggest that she is not far off paying for her boat after 3 or 4 years. So will be quids in soon, better than a 25 year mortgage

It's downstream from Nottingham we want to go. Will see how much it's dropped on Wednesday before deciding. Still be a good flow on though.

For those interested CRT have today opened Cranfleet flood gates. However the Trent has still go a relatively high flow so procede with caution. If going upstream from Beeston to Cranfleet remember that there is a narrowing of the river below Cranfleet where the current speed increase so don't thrash your engine and have some power in hand. On our boat it takes an increase of between 500 and 750 rpm to maintain the same cruising speed through the narrowing. Above all else boat safely.

Try to loosen it whilst hot and full. Clout the spanner rather than putting a lot of force on it. If all else fails, before you wreck the calorifier, saw down both sides down to the gasket and try again. The brass will collapse slightly. I have had to drill them out in the past, just don't touch the tread in the flange ring.

https://www.nenevalleyfirewood.co.uk/ Have bought off them for a few years now.

Is that heavy water?

The white thing is either an expansion vessel or accumulator depending upon where in the system it is fitted AND what air pressure is inside it. If its connected to the calorifier or hot water system its probably an expansion vessel but one the taps are open and the water pump off it will do nothing. SNAP

What @Onewheeler said. Immersion heaters tend to either work, or not work. Partially working is unlikely. Any idea what power your existing one is? Boat ones are often 1kW, but higher power is possible, if your shore line can take it. You are running it off a shore line, not from batteries aren't you! Most people seem to find 1kW adequate. The "gas" cylinder is either an expansion vessel, if it is connected to the hot outlet from the calorifier, or an accumulator, if it is on the cold water side, downstream of the water pump.

The whole 80% vs 95% argument has not really been well discussed on any of the forums. Obviously you get better life time if you avoid 100% and maybe 95% but are there any other benefits of keeping lower than 90%? I get the impression (ie no specific data to quote) that cells go out of balance more if you are pushing to the top of the charge curve so by keeping down at 80% the cells stay in balance longer. This is not going to be a problem if you have a good cell balancing system. Are there any issues over the 'memory' effect? I know MP spent a lot of time up near 100% this summer. The rest of us seem to be operating much lower. One benefit of having an upper limit of 80% is that you are that much further away from destruction caused by overcharging so it is far less likely to happen! On my system I have a number of levels of security ie 2 separate audible alarms and 2 separate relay disconnects (but both to just one switch) but the 80% 'normal' termination keeps me further from trouble. I notice Tesla have 80% as the 'default' charging maximum.....but is that just to maximise battery life which is important in an EV?

Heat gun.

Its a crap time of the year to replace two shock absorbers and brakes on a car too. soaking wet and horribly cold. Nothing to do with boating but just thought I'd have a moan.

All done. Chuffed to bits. Both cold and hot water runs okay and the pump runs for approximately 4-5 seconds after tap turned off. The power lead on the tyre pump was, believe it or not about a foot short. So after another walk to Midland Chandlers for some 12v cable and a bit of wiring genius all works. Amazing. Thanks so much for everyone's patience and advice. I really ought to have more confidence in myself. Always used to have when I was a whizz kid in management.

Oiled thr wood in the bathroom