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Nati

Kelvin K2 engineer

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Hi guys

about to buy boat with kelvin k2 engine however engine is disconnected and before I pay for the boat I want someone experience to have a look at it and hopefully connect it for me 

 

so can anyone help me find person that have a clue about this vintage engine? 

I know those engine are very good and I would love mine to run 

 

thank you 

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I suspect this lovely engine is worth more than the asking price of the boat, so maybe the engine is sick.

2001 is a relative new boat so its surprising that the interior has been stripped out.

I sort of think things are not quite right here, but Aqueduct are a very reputable organisation so it should be ok.

 

Has this engine ever actually run in this boat?

 

.................Dave

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There is no debate about the situation of the boat. I am interested in doing interior my own way as this is my second project so it doesn’t bother me at all.

Question is can someone help me run it and find out whats wrong with the engine  As of course the price is like this because of this amazing engine. Unlucky me- I just don’t know anything about it. I wouldn’t know where to start. 

 

Thanks natalia 

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Even without the K2 I would say £14,000 is a good price for a 2001 boat assuming the shell is in good condition, there are smart 2001 trad boats advertised for £70,000 !

Putting a K2 into a boat is a bit specialist so please confirm that this engine has actually run in this boat and not just been plonked in their recently with no real planning. K2's normally have transverse engine beds but those in the photo look more like conventional beds. This might or might not be a significant problem.

Have you done your basic research into starting and caring for a Kelvin to confirm that its the right engine for you?, they don't just start at the turn of a key like a modern engine.

 

Have a look at this thread:

 

....Dave

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Richard Milligan- 07973 826260 would be well worth giving a call. I have no idea if he works on Kelvins or not but I will vouch that his installation work on vintage engines is exemplary if you want a proper job.

I would pay for the boat before I spent money on installing the engine though unless you are of a very generous nature!

Edited by PaulJ
To add

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Why am I doing this?

 

You've got a few possibilities - run the engine in the boat, run it out of the boat or find out who worked on it last

 

To run it in the boat, it needs all of the necessary installation, like bolting down to adequate beds. cooling, electrics, diesel, controls. That means investing money to find out

 

You might be able to lash up enough kit to make it start in the boat to tell you what else needs doing, that's also going to cost

 

If you want it out of the boat, you're probably going to have to pay for the boat first

 

I'd try and find out the history of the engine

 

Richard

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Okay. Thank you very much for Those advice. Thank you for the contact details too. 

As far as I am concerne this engine has been there from the very beginning. 

However I can not guarantee, this information is 100 % correct and reliable simply because people could be dishonest. 

Inhave done my research about Kalvin engines and that’s also the reason why I am here. I am aware this engine is not a simple turn key and it gos but thank you for making sure I know this ?

PaulJ and RLWP I most likely will pay for the boat first and than invest money in starting the engine. ( I Am generous but not as much ?

 

Thank you so much for much appreciated help once again

 

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In that area the person to talk to is Dick Goble. He knows as much about Kelvins as anyone apart from perhaps Seaward Engineering in Glasgow. He is based in Stoke and moors at Malkins Bank.

However, unless he knows the engine even Dick won't be able to tell you much about it if it cannot be run. 

Allow a lot of money to install it. The propshaft should be able to slide back and forward as the gearbox relies on propeller thrust to stay properly in gear. The gearchange needs a rotary motion, not a to and fro slide.  As noted transverse engine beds are essential, and they need to be really well built and braced.  You also need a supply of empty Teachers scotch bottles for the governor and injector drains.?

Do not buy any Kelvin in a poke either.  You can easily spend a lot of money getting parts, plus  the cost of fitting them. Like many vintage engines they will run apparently well even when very poorly.

N

  • Greenie 1

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As a fellow Kelvin owner I wish you luck. Unless you are very keen on this type of engine, which really needs its own engine room, I would sell it and buy something more in keeping with this type of boat and is easy to maintain. You need to find out if this is the original engine for the boat and it has the correct engine bearers which as it has been said need to be transverse and very substantial otherwise it will move alarmingly. The propeller needs to be the correct size and with this engine developing 44SHP it may be overpowed if the draught is low. Spares may be difficult and expensive to obtain and a lot of work and money is needed to install everything around it. If you are paying someone it may be lots of £K and you really need to know it the engine is good first.

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1 hour ago, dmr said:

Even without the K2 I would say £14,000 is a good price for a 2001 boat assuming the shell is in good condition, there are smart 2001 trad boats advertised for £70,000 !

Putting a K2 into a boat is a bit specialist so please confirm that this engine has actually run in this boat and not just been plonked in their recently with no real planning. K2's normally have transverse engine beds but those in the photo look more like conventional beds. This might or might not be a significant problem.

Have you done your basic research into starting and caring for a Kelvin to confirm that its the right engine for you?, they don't just start at the turn of a key like a modern engine.

 

Have a look at this thread:

 

....Dave

I would have a good read of this if i were you.

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8 minutes ago, Mike Hurley said:

I would have a good read of this if i were you.

A brief scan is scary enough

  • Haha 1

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Guys I appreciate your concern and worries

however I have read all the threads about IVY itself and Kelvin K2 engine on here canal world as well as many other sources. 

So I am very aware of what people are saying about the boat and about the engine 

however it’s very easy to judge without actually seeing the boat with your own eyes. 

I have visisted IVY and have no worries about the boat at all. 

Only engine is a question mark and it’s optional question mark with many ways out

so I am sure I can handle it especially considering the fact that it’s not a first time I am taking on a project like it ?

just very unfortunate I am not a engineer 

 

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Where are you based? I have a friend who specialises in Kelvins and services boats in various areas of the UK. He's based in Stoke - I'll PM you his details if it's the right area. 

  • Greenie 1

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58 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

Where are you based? I have a friend who specialises in Kelvins and services boats in various areas of the UK. He's based in Stoke - I'll PM you his details if it's the right area. 

I expect the boat will still be at Aqueduct Marina where it was offerred for sale so Church Minshull.

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Looks like the "Marie Celeste" of canal boats..........still knowing boats,canal or otherwise.......nothing is unusual.Reading the info supplied ,there seems to be some doubt of the 2001 build date.However any steel hull has a scrap value......quite high at the moment,so you certainly cant end up with a total loss.........For my two cents worth of opinion,the hull on dry standing,and easily inspected......possibly an ultrasonic thickness and rust survey is not expensive...........the motor may be scrap,but still has value to the rose coloured glasses brigade...............

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Has this thread aso had a mention?
 



Seems like somebody else bought it, also with the history of engine engine unknown, and hoped to get it going.

It sounds like they didn't manage it, and have now resold, (maybe to you?).

(Unless I'm missing something here?)

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Despite their rather idiosyncratic features they are basically very straightforward engines. I would definitely concentrate on starting it on diesel.  The magneto/petrol start can be problematical, especially if the magneto has been left standing for any length of time.  Detailed starting instructions are given in the manual, which is available online. I'd also change the oil, paying particular attention to the gauze filter at the bottom of the sump.

I suppose you've checked the obvious things: do the injectors creak?  What's the compression like?  It should be very hard to turn the engine over when the change-over levers are in the forward position.

I would advise fitting a thermostart heater (see previous thread). This will make starting on diesel very easy, even in the coldest weather.

As others have pointed out, you are going to need a much sturdier installation (see how the K2 was fitted to Owl.

 

 

 

 

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Does idiosyncratic mean you can t buy spares for love nor money?.....Or if you leave a motor sit for a year or three,all the cracks in the head rust up,and it doesnt leak water. into the cylinders on a test run...............?

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Yank the lump out, sell it and drop a modern Canaline engine in. With a 6mm base plate, inadequate bearers and the weight of a K2 its a disaster area waiting to happen, the flex when its running will be frightening.

  • Greenie 2

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Sam ? 

What do you mean ? 

If I would like to replace this engine with new you are saying it would be disaster? 

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Sam is advocating fitting a different engine which is more suited to the structure and layout of the boat. Probably sound  advice!

 

N

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I don't think newcomers to boating and early diesel engines understand the problems  - "challenges" with mounting them in a more modern hull in such a way as not to destroy the mountings and possibly the hull. The nearest thing I could find to illustrate what the forces are can be seen this this video starting at 4:00  minutes :-

 

 

 

 

You need some serious metalwork  in the frame to hold the engine and best quality welding.

Great to own and use, but very expensive in time, resources and money.

That's why folks on here have suggested that fitting some more modern engine with less structural demands is more sensible for 'every day use'

 

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