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koukouvagia

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koukouvagia last won the day on December 29 2011

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  • Boat Name
    1912 Braithwaite and Kirk motorised butty ex FMC

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  • Website URL
    http://www.narrowboatowl.com and http://www.buttyhampton.com

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  1. It should be possible to put it back in yourself with the right technique. Stand facing the rear of the boat and put your back flat under under the tiller. Bend your knees and lift the tiller using your hands to manipulate the bottom of the rudder onto the skeg. With a bit of jiggling it should go back in as David says.
  2. The only way to get an answer is to talk to your insurer. I was once allowed a two year extension because work was being done on the boat. Insurance companies all seem to have tightened up the rules. I can remember when there was no need for an out of water survey at all. Now four years seems to be the norm.
  3. There are several threads on this topic. My method (I've done four fit-outs like this) is to use slab insulation and a polythene vapour barrier. https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/63615-insulating-a-boat-to-prevent-condensation/&do=findComment&comment=1225136 There is nothing wrong with Thinsulate, by the way. I've got it in the back cabin of my butty where space is at a premium. Done properly, it's higly effective.
  4. Mine's very similar, but the end hooks snugly into the filler.
  5. I bought one of those expanding hoses. The first time I used it, it blew up like a balloon and exploded. Waste of money.
  6. I don't know about locks per week, but in my younger days I did Cape, Hatton and Lapworth in a day - all single handed. eta That's 40 locks. Phew.
  7. Make sure you get ones with the correct thread. Also some have a longer reach than others. The 24v ones I had were made in Czechoslovakia. I received this email from the manufacturer: Our distributor for United Kingdom is company Letrika UK, please contact: MARTA.PERKOWSKA@letrika.com or NICK.BREWER@letrika.com By the way, they are often known as Flame Heater Plugs, in case you are searching online
  8. Yes. Good old Jim. He told me that story as well. Also the one about side-swiping a bridge on the Trent in thick fog.
  9. It's not only marinas that do this. A few years ago CRT informed us that they were going to impose an "intensive use" surcharge on all moorers at our location. I had to produce evidence that I had a land address. Every year when the mooring comes up for renewal I ask CRT to confirm that they have not sneakily re-imposed it.
  10. I see what you mean, but it doesn't appear to make matters worse. I've never taken it apart, but I assumed there was a one way flap of some kind that lets air out but doesn't allow any in.
  11. I found fitting an automatic air vent valve mostly solves this problem.
  12. I have a Refleks heating radiators and calorifier via a 12v pump. When it's going full blast, about 2 litres a day will evaporate which I relplenish and regard as normal. One thing I did discover: when bleeding radiators - a chore which I have to do after the system has lain dormant during the summer - I have to turn off the circulation pump. Otherwise air is sucked into the system. It may be that the position of the pump could be changed, but since everything else works perfectly, I can live with it.
  13. Ta! A definitive answer in about a minute. Is this a CWDF record?
  14. I never knew what to call this part of the base. It's a triangular hollow piece of the stem into which the end of the elm bottom is fixed. There's a similar arangement at the rear. I left it in place when I had Owl rebottomed in case anyone in the future wanted to replace the elm. I'd always referred to these structures as "sole plates", but I'm probably wrong. What are they called?
  15. When I wanted to do exactly this I used an Essex fitting. No welding needed and a successful job.
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