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koukouvagia

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koukouvagia last won the day on December 29 2011

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  • Boat Name
    1912 Braithwaite and Kirk motorised butty ex FMC

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  • Website URL
    http://www.narrowboatowl.com and http://www.buttyhampton.com

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  1. I don't suppose it's any help for the OP when I say that over the past ten years my annual costs have been between £5K and £10K - and that's not counting major work to the hull and back cabin. eta: I see the specific question was how much does it cost to keep a boat afloat. In 2014 it cost me £2.5K to deal with a weak spot in the hull. This was simply remedial work to keep the boat afloat. Three years later major work was required which cost many times that sum.
  2. It looks OK to do this, as others have said. As a belt and braces approach, I'd have some epoxy putty handy just in case you hit a really thin spot. This is a remarkable fix/bodge material. When I went through the hull while descaling rust (on a surveyor's advice, I might add!) it set so hard that it had to be chipped off with a chisel.
  3. Yes, I agree. The Dudswell pound is notorious for low levels. I thought the problem had been solved, but apparently not. Now that new gates have been fitted at Cowroast there is now no longer a constant flow of water off the summit onto the Dudswell pound through leaking gates.
  4. It was originally on Apolloduck for £42.5K. It's now been reduced to £38K.
  5. I'm afraid I can't find old photos of Grebe or Moorhen, but I passed this boat recently. I'm pretty certain this is one of the ex hireboats. It still has the round gas locker covers on the back deck.
  6. What a great picture. Thanks for posting. Sorry if we didn't give you a cheery greeting. We're hoping that our former boat, Owl will be making it to the show.
  7. Yep. See: https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/54625-historic-boats-for-sale-online/&do=findComment&comment=2266534
  8. ...and another boat on the same mooring was lengthened by Roger Farringdon as well. On this boat a new long tug style deck was added with a rather elegant fore-end.
  9. I was told exactly the same when a diesel bowser sank near Tower Bridge. It dragged down a tug which was moored alongside and caused, in my eyes, a massive stretch of polluted river. Sure enough after a few tides it had all disappeared.
  10. I've looked again at your pictures and I'm wondering about those triangular stiffeners. Was the original floor level above these? You seem to imply that you want to lay the wooden floor joists as close to the base as possible. If this is the case then these bits of metal would protrude above floor level and would be a right pain. Sorry, if I've misunderstood your plans.
  11. No, Troy. ? edited to add picture of Priam with a cover over his head.
  12. Personally I wouldn't bother. You got ready drilled bolt holes to secure both the upright framing for the sides and the cross-members for the floor supports. Don't forget you don't know how much room for the ballast you may need and it's always good to have space for air to move around in the bilges.
  13. It depends on whether you think the bilge will get wet. I put in stainless steels ones - a bit of an overkill, but you never know when you are going to get pipe or pump leaking. If I were doing the job again I'd probably use something like these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/timco-in-dex-exterior-carriage-bolts-organic-green-10-x-220mm-10-pack/41338
  14. A bit different, this one. https://deadline.com/2019/05/zomboat-itv-hulu-1202621146/
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