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koukouvagia last won the day on December 29 2011

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About koukouvagia

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  • Boat Name
    1912 Braithwaite and Kirk motorised butty

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  1. The symptons you describe (screeching pump, spurting header tank and bangs caused by parts of the water circuit boiling while others remain cool) point to a system that still has air in it. It can take quite a bit of patient fiddling to get rid of the air. I recommend auto-bleed valves on the radiators and an auto air vent plumbed into the highest part of the system. (Google Altecnic 502649 15 mm Auto Air Vent Robocal) Ah. I see TheBiscuits has the same thought.
  2. Surveyor recommendations

    Oops. Misread OP. I was recommending a BSS examiner, not sure that he does full surveys.
  3. Big sofa, little door...

    Have a look at Le Corbusier sofas. We've got one of these and it just fitted through a 22" door opening.
  4. Where to buy working boats

    1. Buy what is essentially a wreck. This will probably be very cheap. You’ll then have the option of doing it up gradually, getting professional help when required – e.g. new baseplate, footings etc. Or you might decide to hand the boat over to one of the few yards that can deal with historic boat reconstruction/repair. Not only will this be costly, but there could well be a long waiting list and the work itself could take months. 2. Buy a boat that has already had major essential work done. If it’s had a conversion, this may or may not be to your taste. Some of the conversions done in the 70s and 80s are looking rather tired. If the boat has been restored by a good yard, it’s likely to be pricey. I’ve gone down both routes – the cheap and cheerful version where I wasn’t too worried that major work would one day be needed when I could afford it. Eventually both motor and butty had to receive the full restoration treatment. The bottom line is that whichever way you go, you’ll end up spending around £70-80K. Although some sellers are asking considerably more. On top of that you need to be aware that it’s not cheap maintaining an historic boat, especially if it has a vintage engine. Anybody interested in seeing what’s involved in owning historic boats could have a glance at my two websites – below. As has already been suggested, I’d go and visit (it’s no use trying to do this by phone or email) various yards and boat restorers to see what’s in the pipeline. Very often they’ll know what’s likely to come up for sale by word of mouth. You’ll also need to convince people that you are going to be able to look after a boat that has been lovingly nurtured over the years. For example, the owner of Elizabeth specifically says: “The new owner will need to be practical and have the time and resources to dedicate to the maintenance of this remarkable boat, she is not the sort of craft that can just be left in a marina.” Best of luck with your search. You mention the Braunston Show. Get chatting to boaters; let people know you are interested.
  5. This was a major constraint for us too. The steel bath we chose would go through the doorway sideways minus the feet, but was too wide by about 3". The only way I could squeeze the bath into the bathroom in was to let it into the lining.
  6. Insulation, if it's of the slab rockwool type, is made to be a friction fit between battens and won't move. On the other hand, sound insulation comes in heavy, rigid blocks and it needs proper adhesive to stick to the sides of the boat. Wet paint as glue? Not a hope .
  7. No, but I think the material is the same. This was our plastic bath. Not a very clear picture, but you can just discern the marks. The steel on in Hampton is of a much higher quality. I also knocked the rim of the plastic bath and it chipped.
  8. We had a plasticy bath in Owl - usual Midland Chandlery type. OK but prone to discoloration and was easily marked. In Hampton we have a steel Bette Labette bath. It has a much better, solid feel to it. We can dunk the dogs in it without fear of scratching it. (NB We didn't really have the option of fitting a stand-up shower in a boat with an undercloth conversion.)
  9. Selling a 65 ft boat privately

    Same happened when I sold my Seffle. Chap arrived clutching a carrier bag full of fivers. No paperwork, just a handshake.
  10. Selling a 65 ft boat privately

    I couldn’t agree more. We may have been lucky selling our boat but it was a smooth, painless and very rapid process. The first thing we did was to make a website which included every conceivable detail, warts and all, together with the boat's history and all the work that it had needed over the years. There was also a full inventory of all the things included in the sale. (I cannot understand why anyone selling their pride and joy thinks a scanty advert on Apolloduck with a few nondescript photos and a blurb written in estate-agentese, is going to persuade anyone to buy it.) So, the chap comes to see the boat; we get on well and he likes it. I’m more than satisfied that he appreciates historic boats and that he is more than able to give ours the attention it deserves. We go for a spin and he gets the feel of how it handles. He comes back again to the boat the following week; he makes an offer which I accept; we shake hands and the money is in my bank a few days later. I give him a bill of sale – mainly for his protection because it states that I own the boat and that there are no other claims on it. The next weekend the boat leaves our mooring with its new owner. Example of the bill of sale.doc
  11. Buying a boat ?...Cautionary tales..BEWARE !!

    It is possible to have overplating done and still have a problem. In my case the corrosion started from inside the boat and worked its way out, through the original paper-thin original iron and then through to the overplating. I was told by a surveyor to descale the rust, which was below the waterline inside the boat, and repaint the bilges. As we were doing this, we knocked a hole straight through the hull. Oops! There was no alternative but to have the whole of the back end of the butty remade.
  12. Which diesel engine would people recommend for a narrowboat

    I think I can answer that. It was bought by the father of the chap who bought Owl. I think it's going to be properly looked after and is, or was a few months ago, awaiting rebuilding at Tim Carter's place at Dodford.
  13. I used a spray on contact adhesive (see post #5). Very easy to apply but be careful it's almost impossible to remove the insulation sheet once you've stuck it on.
  14. I have just put sound insulation around our engine. I've added a list of the supplies I used to complete the job. On the iron sides of the boat I just relied on the spray on contact adhesive. On the lid and front which is ply, I used the fixing washers as well. One thing recommended is the use of a special foil tape which is used to join the panels and edge them. I was very surprised to measure the reduction in noise - from over 80dB to 53dB. (Admittedly, I was only using an app on my phone.)
  15. OTLEY

    We did exactly the same on our boats. We also put sealant between the wooden batten and the steel gunwale.