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koukouvagia

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Everything posted by koukouvagia

  1. I have a theory that an old boat will cost you £80K. You can either buy it cheaper and do the work yourself; or you can buy a boat that's already had the work done. Believe me, you need deep pockets to own and maintain an historic boat.
  2. I've posted on this subject before, but I would warn against poorly executed overplating. Our 110 year old butty had been overplated on top of overplating! Rust was quietly able to eat its way through from the inside and in between the plates. When removing some of the scale from the inside, my son punched a hole right through. Yes, the water did come in. The only solution was to have a proper job done.
  3. I can recommend KC Covers. They made the cloths for our under-cloth conversions on both our motor and butty. They do all sorts of material. We chose textured vinyl which, though not traditional, is a pretty good likeness. I've forgotten what it's called but Karl will advise you. www.kccoversltd.co.uk eta: They will do all the measuring and templating for you.
  4. This is a good place to start https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Wooden-Boat-Restoration-and-Repair.pdf
  5. I had a very similar problem with the wooden roof on our butty. Over the years I have used all sorts of sealants, but they are, at best, a bodge. Sikaflex is probably the best. The leaks were finally cured by using a fibre glass mat sheet and resin. (Google West System). However, even this lasted only a few years because the underlying wood dried out and became friable causing the fibre glass shell to crack. However, you say your roof is largely sound, so you may be OK. The permanent solution in may case was to rebuild the back cabin in steel. For details of how I did the fibre glass and resin go to https://www.buttyhampton.com/engine-and-hydraulic-drive (scroll down the page).
  6. Here's another example of Dave's work. He's just painted a cabin block for Hampton. We've now a full set of Dave's work: he decorated the back cabin, grained and lettered the boat and also painted the can and bowl. A clever chap!
  7. I’m one of the members here with an ARS hydraulic drive fitted to a butty. See https://www.buttyhampton.com/undercloth-conversion-2005 Pros: Pretty well maintenance free. I just change the oil about once every five years. I've renewed all the hoses after about ten years – merely as a precaution. ARS provide excellent service and will design a system for you that matches your engine. There are also specialist engineers around who will come out to your boat. Very simple to fit to a bog standard engine like my 1.8 BMC. Can be fitted anywhere on the boat where it’s convenient. Very useful if there’s low headroom in the back cabin because of a conventional prop shaft running under the floor. Cons: A bit of a whine. Not really a problem. Expensive when things do go wrong. I had a log trapped in the propellor and for some reason the safety valve didn’t actuate. Blown oil seals resulted in rebuild. I am told that they are efficient, but I’ve never been able to verify this. There's certainly no lack of power on our 70' boat.
  8. I had at various times these two arrangements. The first one shows a feed tee-ed off the day tank; the second one just has a simple reservoir.
  9. We’d owned Owl for over thirty years and the butty Hampton for twenty five. Maintaining two historic boats meant that we were spending more time repairing and renovating than we were actually boating. Crunch time came in 2017 when I was going aground with Owl on the north Stratford every 100 yards and for the first time in over thirty years I was not enjoying boating. We decided to sell Owl and use the money to restore to a very high standard our butty, Yes, I miss the Kelvin, but it’s a joy to boat with the far less deep drafted Hampton. We were very pleased to see that Owl is now in the possession of an enthusiast who will lavish attention (and most likely, money) on looking after the boat for the next generation. Tempora mutantur et nos mutamur in illis.
  10. Oops, double post. (BTW is there any way of deleting a post?)
  11. I was told by a member of the Edwards family that Owl was used as a prototype to see if transport of chocolate chip by narrowboat was feasible. I have not been able to verify this, however.
  12. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. I see you've already set up a family tree on Ancestry - I presume it's yours - and you've only got back as far as Mary Mullarky, your grandmother. You will have seen on the Catholic Birth Registers that there are scores of Mary/Maria Mularkys from Ireland from around the correct date. Have you got birth certificates of your mother and grandmother? This might narrow the area of Ireland Mary came from. Best of luck with the family research. By the way, since there is a boating family connection, you might try contacting Lorna York (she posts on this forum). She has an encyclopaedic knowledge and a huge database.
  15. This is the set up on a josher (Owl). Someone has tried to make the rudder a little easier to turn by adding a small balance strip to the back edge. This meant chopping a piece off the bracing strut. Also someone has chopped a D shaped hole for the same reason. I should point out that in my opinion neither modification was very successful - the boat is pretty heavy to steer round sharp bends.
  16. I would be concerned, but as tempting as it may seem to have a go at removing the rust, don't start chipping away while the boat is in the water. I speak from experience.
  17. That looks serious. If it's localised, you may be able to effect a temporary bodge with epoxy putty. This can be very effective.
  18. I'd had a full hull survey done on the boat pictured above. No significant problems were identifed. Huh!
  19. I would suggest you get a full hull survey. What started out as a small patch of rust on our historic boat turned out to be a much more serious matter. I don't wish to be a Job's comforter, but maintaining an iron hull can be very expensive. Whoever does the work for you should also check that none of the rivets have blown. P&S at Watford did some good work on the iron hull of our other boat - very sound and professional. Good luck.
  20. In our installation with a 1.8 and an hydraulic drive, the engine is bolted right down to the steel bearer. Never had any vibration problems.
  21. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  23. I have used one and carry one as an emergency spare. They work just as well as pumps costing four times as much. I can't remember how much current they draw, but I seem to recall they are comparable to Jabsco ones.
  24. I've mentioned this before on the forum. Don't underestimate the danger of being swept off the boat by the tiller. I've seen it happen and the person wasn't sitting down, but standing within the arc of the tiller. The safest and most confortable way - although this isn't any use to the OP - is to stand on the step of a tradtitional boat and, when you want a rest, to sit on the roof with the legs dangling in the opening.
  25. This was taken on the Weaver in 2005, I think. It wasn't an official boat gathering, people just turned up to celebrate the founding of FMC.
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