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koukouvagia

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Everything posted by koukouvagia

  1. This is the set up on a josher (Owl). Someone has tried to make the rudder a little easier to turn by adding a small balance strip to the back edge. This meant chopping a piece off the bracing strut. Also someone has chopped a D shaped hole for the same reason. I should point out that in my opinion neither modification was very successful - the boat is pretty heavy to steer round sharp bends.
  2. I would be concerned, but as tempting as it may seem to have a go at removing the rust, don't start chipping away while the boat is in the water. I speak from experience.
  3. That looks serious. If it's localised, you may be able to effect a temporary bodge with epoxy putty. This can be very effective.
  4. I'd had a full hull survey done on the boat pictured above. No significant problems were identifed. Huh!
  5. I would suggest you get a full hull survey. What started out as a small patch of rust on our historic boat turned out to be a much more serious matter. I don't wish to be a Job's comforter, but maintaining an iron hull can be very expensive. Whoever does the work for you should also check that none of the rivets have blown. P&S at Watford did some good work on the iron hull of our other boat - very sound and professional. Good luck.
  6. In our installation with a 1.8 and an hydraulic drive, the engine is bolted right down to the steel bearer. Never had any vibration problems.
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  9. I have used one and carry one as an emergency spare. They work just as well as pumps costing four times as much. I can't remember how much current they draw, but I seem to recall they are comparable to Jabsco ones.
  10. I've mentioned this before on the forum. Don't underestimate the danger of being swept off the boat by the tiller. I've seen it happen and the person wasn't sitting down, but standing within the arc of the tiller. The safest and most confortable way - although this isn't any use to the OP - is to stand on the step of a tradtitional boat and, when you want a rest, to sit on the roof with the legs dangling in the opening.
  11. This was taken on the Weaver in 2005, I think. It wasn't an official boat gathering, people just turned up to celebrate the founding of FMC.
  12. That's a very good point. There is no sight guage on the day tank and it has to be filled from a small electric pump - easy to forget.
  13. I wouldn't touch it. I speak as one who has restored two boats which, had they not have been historically significant, would have been scrapped. Don't be misled by the £30K figure. I can guarantee that this figure will be a huge underestimate. Also a full scale renovation can take at least a year to complete. How much is the mooring worth? Could you buy the boat for a song and then swap it for a better one at a later stage? eta. Ah, I see Sir Percy has the same idea.
  14. Cowroast. eta. Sorry. I see it's already been answered.
  15. One point that was overlooked on our boat was to remember that the boat usually sits in the water tilted towards the back. Because the holes were to the front of the space, it doesn't drain very well. To answer the original question, the holes are 1 1/2" square.
  16. Just a word of warning. Refleks stoves are not as foolproof as I thought. My experience yesterday may have been a freak occurrence, but it’s worth mentioning. After lighting the Refleks for the first time in months, all seemed fine. Nice blue flame. Everything as normal. I went out of the boat for five minutes and when I came back the fire was roaring furiously and it was clearly over-fueled. This has occasionally happened before when I’d stupidly lit the fire with a pool of diesel in the bottom of the burner, but never suddenly when the fire seemed to be running perfectly normally. I shut off the fuel, but it took far longer than usual to extinguish. In the meantime I noticed that hot diesel was dripping from the scraper hole! After things had cooled down I investigated and quickly found the reason. The trip lever had become dislodged because the spindle which supports it had drifted to one side and the whole structure was trapped. This meant that the float safety mechanism was no longer functioning and diesel, in effect, was being fed directly into the burner. I can’t explain how this happened, but it may have occurred when I set the trip mechanism before lighting the fire. On reflection, I do remember that the lever seemed stiffer than usual before it clicked into position and again, with hindsight, the trip mechanism had become unduly sensitive recently.
  17. This chart provided by Refleks will give you some idea of the size of heater you need. My suspicion is that the one you have in mind will not be powerful enough to deliver any more than background heat. (Sorry I don't seem to be able to save this screenshot with the correct orientation).
  18. I had the wood on the deck for about ten years (I sold the boat a couple of years ago). The planks are about 1/2" thick and were laid directly onto steel and well anchored with nuts and bolts. I never took them up, so I don't know if water ever managed to percolate through - I doubt it though. I've just remembered I put a thin line of Sikaflex where the wood butted up to the steel cants. eta: Originally I used ash. It looked terrific, but was not a success because the wood warped and I replaced it with the mahogony.
  19. The answer, in my experience, is "yes". These are butted mahogony (recycled, I hasten to add!) strips. They weather to a pleasant greyish colour. No problem - they don't move and don't need caulking.
  20. I don't suppose this helps, but our ex working boat with an undercloth conversion has a headroom of well over 6'6". Mind you, I think you'd need to be less than 5' tall to stand up in the back cabin
  21. I think the key to this is building a relationship with the people who work on your boat. I have. over the years, got to know well an engineer, a fabricator, a dry dock owner, a BSS examiner and painter/signwriter. Each prefers to be contacted differently: text, email, phone etc. All of them call back or reply the same day. I agree with Ex Brummie about meeting face to face. When I had our butty rebuilt I used to make a two hundred mile round trip each weekend for six months to discuss the next stage. In this way there were no misunderstandings on either side and the work went very smoothly. I may have been fortunate, but there are some really good tradesmen/women out there. For example, I recall the time I had broken down and needed a new water pump. The owner of a chandlery, whom I knew, but not well, not only replied to my message but drove out specially with the part. I think I've posted before about the amazing service and excellent communication I received when I had to have a new hydraulic motor a couple of years ago. So not all gloom and despondency
  22. We've been on the same moorings since 1998. At that time I was paying £1484 p.a. Today I'm paying £2846 p.a. This seems a huge increase until you allow for the effect of inflation over the past 21 years. According to the Bank of England Inflation Calculator, goods or services worth £1484 in 1998 would cost £2670 today. So CaRT is charging me about £176 p.a. more than would have been accounted for by inflation. Not bad at all. eta. I see Mike Todd has done a similar exercise. Only just read his post
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