john.k

there is a good chance the old alternator just needs a brushes /regulator unit............cost under 10 quid ...........for a new alternator ,cheapest place is an auto parts discounter.........very dearest would be an auto electrical who specializes in vintage Lucas stuff

I dont have a working scanner...........but ,to replace the spindle (pinion) O rings,you will have to remove the assy from the pump.......dont worry,nothing can fall out or come away..............pull out the metering assy by rotating the throttle pinion,and be sure to note lever position where the rack first meshes..............once the metering unit /rack is out ,the spindle must be removed by first pushing it out one way just enough to remove the o ring ,then with the ring removed ,push it just enough the other way to remove that ring...........then push it out in the first direction.....................the reason for this is the o ring will come out into the hole for the rack bore and jam the shaft ............................Incidentally,this is an automotive governor,with only idling and maximum speed set,and unsuitable for a boat,as it will not hold revs steady under varying load.

I just checked...that is whats called the "rack and pinion governor" and is quite different from the reversable unit....................I strongly suggest you refer to CAV Publication C2129E....before you do anything.

Thats the non reversible governor unit,and quite a bit different to the reversable one that does come to bits easily.From memory the throttle shaft has rack teeth cut into it.....I will have to have a look.

OK ,a quote from the manual......."the serial number of the BMC 4 cyl. engine is stamped on the top rear corner on the RHS of the cylinder block,below the #4 injector......( the 3 cyl is stamped on the block below the pump drive coupling.)

Ive just been looking thru the manual...........its a bit hard to follow as its loose leaf ,with later amendments at the back.......anyhoo,its a really good 'un,with masses of nice line drawings,and pictures.,and they are quite common.......Nuffield Tractors /Workshop manual........should be easy to find one at a tractor swap,or on ebay........The truck manuals generally dont have the diesel engines,that was an exta ,.

You may be right.....in that case its a model OEA.........seems I cant add up either .....anyhoo,its still 95x120 mm.........does that work out to 3.4 for four cylinders?.......and all the water pumps are the same......pulley is held on with a nut ,keyed shaft ,bearings and spacer loose,and the seal fits in a recess.........as I remember?...the seal is actually a carbon washer ,and fits against the impeller........if the impeller is grooved ,face it on a lathe.............EDIT...the 3.8 is 100mmx120mm,and from memory the timing chain setup is a little different..........or is it?

With a Simms inline pump ,its going to be very old......like 1950s.........the BMC diesels are an excellent direct injection engine used in trucks and tractors........and made in 3cyl,4 cyl,and 6 cyl variants.........only slight cloud would be they are wet sleeve,so replacing the sleeves in an engine run without inhibitor will be problematic.................the engine you have was used in the Nuffield tractor,an excellent machine...........the engines also have deflectorized inlet valves,expensive to replace,and a bit prone to wear ,as they dont rotate......................all the water pumps are the same ...truck ,tractor ,and yours.......the water pump has standard deep groove ball bearings,and the bearing shop will likely also be able to match the seal.................beware of British Leyland genuine parts,outrageous prices for for standard items.........Just found my Nuffield manual....your motor is a model OEC ,3 cyl engine......3.4 l,..95x120mm bore and stroke.

Changing a glass sedimenter bowl is a very sensible move.........Ive seen the things break just from being tightened to stop a leak,and broke one myself with just a touch of a spanner.............The catch is the ally bowl is very expensive.............good reason to change to spin ons.

Barnfind is of course a major selling point in the automotive world......................in the old diesel engine world,we have "scrapyard find",and value is easily arrived at..........put er over the bridge............weighbridge ,that is.

Nope ....WW2......and its quite correct that pre 1940 CAV stuff is much better made than 1970 s CAV stuff............. Ive found the Indian made Bosch injection equiptment is just as good as CAV ,at least........far as I know,there is no mechanical injection made in eurozone any more.....Actually,the very best of the Bosch licence diesel pumps were made in Japan......Denso and Kiki.....

The water pump seal for a 6YEN Ruston engine was $450 from GEC Diesels ,ex UK............the exact same seal from Perkins was $6,over the counter..........

When the plunger and barrel are sufficiently worn,fuel can run out around the rack ........there is a tiny amount of back leakage ,even when the pump is new,but if there has been rusting or scoring of the pumping unit,the backleakage will be noticeable ........I have always thought that pre war pumps and injectors had less backleakage than stuff made in the seventies.......in other words the early stuff was better made.

if you cant change the outside appearance ,I doubt anything will fit in the available space ,and work...............the only other alternative is a blanking plate with a metering hole to stop the mass recirculation of coolant direct back to the motor................running without a thermostat in a bypass system often causes localized overheating,without raising the coolant temperature overall.

Nothing can move as long as the delivery valve holder is screwed down tight.............The locating screw hole is drilled thru to the fuel gallery,so a washer or gasket is needed.......Bosch pump parts are the same ,as CAV was copied from Bosch,and fortunately Bosch parts are still being made in India.