john.k

One sign of over advanced injection timing is increased cyclic irregularity ,both at idle and to a lesser extent thru the whole rev range.....if you look in any book on diesel engineering,you will find that a few extra degrees of advance increases peak cylinder pressures greatly ,and its not difficult to actually double peak pressure to the order of 1000psi or more.......and in my experience retarded timing can cause black smoke,not white,which is unburnt fuel,but does not make starting more difficult.......always providing its a matter of 5deg out or so.

Over advanced is hard to start too,generally with lots of white smoke before it starts.Not to mention excessive bearing loads.......do not over advance any diesel to cure smoke ,it doesnt work,and may wreck the motor......I suggest you look at ways to increase the running temp.........intake air from around exhaust,blanking part of the cooling air,or recirculating cooling air........I still think you may have the wrong nozzles, pistons,or pistons in back to front........white smoke is caused by fuel spraying on cold metal ,and not burning fully.

The AC lift pump was originally a cheapie produced specially for the 1934 Hillman Wizard....the cheapest car on the market in the worst year of the depression.....The more expensive AC pumps had valve chambers that could be unscrewed and cleaned,without disturbing the mounting.......somehow ,this cheap pump became the standard AC pump.

And clean the fine mesh plastic strainer in the pump inlet......the only known way to clean these is with a reverse jet of pressure water......or buy a couple of new ones.....PS ..dont drop any springs or screws into the bilge when removing the fitting.

Where the liner is heavily pitted just above the upper land,the corresponding surface in the block is also heavily pitted rather than being a smooth cylinder......and this pitting will tear the new O rings as a new liner is pushed in.....I admit Ive never mucked around with JPs,but in Caterpillars of considerable value,Ive filled the cavitated area with devcon to restore a smooth surface for the liner seals.....Once the liner is installed ,it doesnt matter if the filler falls out,as its job is done..... the hole can also be bored out and a sleeve fitted......not cheap ,tho.

The lifter is a simple spring loaded plunger on a rocker cover,no reason why you couldnt have both.......I expect the covers simply swap over.....and if you have a minimum of engineering gear,you could make your own modification of the existing covers.

Theoretically ,the smoke can be cleared by raising the temperature in the cylinder....assuming your Ruggerini is A/C ,then a restriction of the cooling air would do it.........here I should mention that I know nothing about Ruggerinis ,except that parts are so expensive they are a throw away motor.....but there are several Ruggerini s on my engine junk heap........here s a typical example.....guy brings in a Rugga for a knock.....pull the sump off,broken crank.......cost of new crank..$6300....cost of new motor..$6300.........I say ,mate junk the Iti,and get a Perkins.

Still doesnt adddress the basic problem......fuel is being sprayed onto metal under 400degC,but hot enough to react fuel with air and produce toxic smoke........excess fuel in a hot engine produces black smoke...free carbon...which has a pleasant odour,somewhat like coal smoke.......assuming youre not a greenie,of course.

Grey smoke that chokes the lungs and makes eyes water has aldehydes and ketones formed when fuel is partially decomposed by spraying onto metal surfaces under 400deg C.....the commonest cause is leaking/defective injectors,next is low compression ,especially valves leaking .Excessive clearance between piston tops and cylinder head also cause white smoke ,due to cooling by metal surfaces.....hint.....make sure you have the correct nozzles on your injectors........another hint...are the pistons in back to front/wrong way round?.....more common than you might think.......are the pistons correct for the motor?

Simple ..put a heavy rag over the top of it and crank over the motor.....compression will blow it out............this is also the way to get out car gloplugs if they break off........heavy rag,and drive the car........you ll hear it when its out.

The 4 LW in the crane has done another year ,no oil change......must be 17 years now.........dont ask me what kind of oil....memory loss.........Would likely have been Valvoline Allfleet,or one of the Detroit Diesel oils we used to use hundreds of gallons of........most of the DD oil ended up on the ground under the compressors ,blown out of the airbox drains.

Crankshafts break from fatigue....especially if worn bearings are causing misalignment......misaligned gearboxes causing sideloads.......a shipload of pushrods woulnt break a crank........I would say think yourself lucky it didnt break crossing a bar with a heavy sea running.........you'd all be feeding the fish.

An S6 is a museum piece,and wernt a very good motor anyway.........A Sabre would be a good replacement,and a common hydraulic box like a Velvet drive.......Dont fit anything you cant readily buy spares for......If the S6 doesnt go,I wouldnt even waste the money on an oil change....incidentally ,a P6 is a much smaller motor than a S6,and a lot less power.......but at least spares are available,as well as updated motors of the same dimensions,but direct injection......All these small Perks suffer from rear main bearing wear.

Argue all you like ,but friction modified oil will cause major problems in a boat gearbox.

true.....friction modified oils make wet clutches and wet brakes slip........especially noticeable in a motorbike........oils must also be compounded for flat base ,or non roller tappets.A HD diesel truck or marine oil will be OK,never use a motorcar oil,no matter how many hokey claims are made in the cartoon ads.