john.k

The O ring fits in a recess at the top of the guide bore in the rocker compartment( called "top part of the head here) and stops oil running down the outside of the guide into the head proper and blocking the fins...........IMHO,far more important is the valve spring seat (called retaining plate) as it stops the spring going out of square ,and maybe even interfering with the adjacent spring...............get a replacement,if you cant buy one,get one made on a lathe...I have a couple of these motors,but no spares....but you can still buy spares from Lister Petter.

That is a very pretty little motor.........a good one to take to machinery rallys ,and start a couple of times a day.....nice base too.......

These motors were fairly common here at one time......as mentioned they were supplied as standby gensets with electric track signalling gear............Pelapone was a "captive' brand of GEC ,and only seen here on gensets ...............I had two of the four cylinder engines from gensets.............I replaced these motors with something more saleable,like a Perkins 6/ 354.................IMHO they are a relic from the days when there was a two year waiting list to buy a diesel engine.....of any brand...........and you took what you could get..................My other comment is if you desire a "orphan" engine,take my advice and get a direct injection type,not a Ricardo chamber,which will surely crack between the valve seats and the combustion chamber.......................As for value ,thats very easy.....$350 a ton......at the moment.

Hypoid gear oil is designed to make things slip......I would imagine it is completely unsuitable in any type of wet clutch.....the hypoid additive is also credited with attacking bronze in gearboxes......the evidence offered being it turns bronze black..............What I do know is that hypoid oils become actively corrosive when mixed with water and the steel gears are left idle for a period....Some modern car engine oils can also cause slip in wet clutches because of the "friction modifiers"......this is not advertising hype,it really works.....So ,I restrict myself to either HD diesel engine oil,tractor transmission oil,or a hydraulic oil of suitable grade......Modern oils are a minefield for old machines,many are completely unsuitable..........Use a high grade steam turbine oil of R&O spec and ISO 68 grade.

OK,I priced on German made Bosch parts.....but on an update,I see that Motor Industries Company,is now part of Bosch,or maybe Bosch is part of Motor Industries,MICO.....Bosch also own the Joseph Lucas and CAV names for automotive electrical equipment and spares,which are also made in India.....

Less.....or more?

You are lucky its a single unit,and is so simple...........I would pull it to bits ,and see whats wrong with it.....and if terminal,buy a complete Indian unit..........this will be a lot cheaper than a pump repairer,who will probably use Bosch bits......a new plunger /barrel unit from Bosch via a pump shop would be 300 quid,I reckon.....If they decide you need a new delivery valve assy,another couple of hundred.....then they still have to put it on the tester and set it....On a Indian Listeroid,,just install the whole new unit..........and spill time it.

Its a Indian made MIco....I have seen the pumping plunger break a small piece out of the scroll at the top..........If the plunger was stuck ,the rack would not turn,.....the other possibility is the barrel pinion has come loose and the barrel isnt rotating.............If you take the pump for service,they will likely want both .

The Listers were designed in an era when a bit of smoke wasnt an issue,,,,,,,fuel economy and long life were more important.If you look at a modern engine,you will see a shaped combustion cavity in the piston,especially designed to ensure no fuel spray can touch the piston in operation...Lister used a spherical cavity because it was fuel efficient and more important easy to machine.If fuel spray hits a piston,white smoke results until the piston crown is hot enough to burn the fuel.....So,dont run your motor light if you dont want smoke.

You can get really good waterpump seals with ceramic sealing faces for a very reasonable amount from most bearing service companies.....They cant be run dry though.Ive done a number of early packing seal pumps converting to the ceramics with 100% success....Sometimes they take a bit of head scratching to figure out how to install the seal in the housing.

White smoke from a diesel running light will generally be partially oxidised or decomposed hydrocarbons.........in particular aldehydes and ketones,and a small part steam......which is why the smoke makes your eyes water and chokes up the lungs of asthmatics.....Nasty stuff......Engine oil passing the rings tends to creep along the exhaust pipes ,until the system gets hot enough to vaporize them.,.

The young are being brainwashed by the greens about pollution,climate change etc,and a pet hate of the greens is old diesels......Anyone who owns land has seen what the greens influence on elected drudges can do......Drive a smokey diesel on the road...and see what happens.......how long before emission control /"grass up a smoker" is applied to boats...........As to the astronomical costs of repairing these old engines.....all I can say is "Perkins".....3-152 to be exact......Engines are a dime a dozen,spare parts cheaper than most cars.

Arent the TS series Indian made?.....The SR/ST series use a single hole injector nozzle in a spherical cavity piston..the idea being that the single hole is less likely to clog on an industrial engine........White smoke of the eyewatering kind is caused when fuel contacts cold metal in the combustion chamber..........there are two cures ....get everything hot,or keep the fuel spray away from metal with a very fine spray from multihole nozzles.............The smoke is a vicious circle.......deposits build up in the exhaust when running light,but when the system gets hot under full power ,the deposits vaporize,making worse smoke...Same if oil passes into the exhaust..............To eliminate smoke without engine improvements,an afterburner system like some cars have would be a temporary cure to clear the exhaust emissions.

Sorry,no offense meant.............good luck with your project.......the flywheel is from an E6 RN,would be a bit big.....My only connection with RNs is trying to fix them.........and selling the round cast RN coverplates at swaps as "Royal Navy" for $20 each.

two years to work out a starter....I reckon Id have enough bits in the backyard to do it five times over.......there is also an electric strart Russel Newbery flywheel somewhere......have to be careful not to hit it with the mower ,its a heavy lump....Every RN I ever saw had rods out thru the sideplate....A BS 5 CAV,would direct start any of the smaller ones easily....no need for mucking about.....I like the little Taiwanese geared units on the market for about 150 quid new........they really spin a motor over.,and weigh no more than a car starter.