john.k

I know a lawyer who can swim.

There was once a company called "Barimar Ltd" ,who specialized in welding broken cast iron cylinder blocks and heads....some of their repairs were incredible.Most old engine books have a pic of some of the repairs.....one point about using steel weld ,its not got the corrosion resistance of cast iron,so inhibitor must be used in the coolant.

I also see that your hydraulic seal has a quad ring packing in the section......this is to provide sufficient force to seal oil at pressure.......this is contributing to the wear.......the ring should just come out of the seal,its normally a loose piece,with maybe a dab of sticky to keep it in.

Hardchrome is a good surface for a seal,your problem is probably the seal starting dry ,then running wet.......Natural rubber likes water as a lubricant, even one dry stroke will tear it, oil will ruin it........this is why some suitable polymer is needed,to provide that initial lubrication when dry....Another idea might be MoS2 filled plastic,but I would look at the thin sheet idea..........I fitted these to piston valves used to controll the flow of yucky stuff in a dog food factory.......the liquid was very corrosive and erosive,and despite the hard stainless of the valve failing,the seal stack was still working without leakage,or apparent wear...........Another idea is to modify the gland to include a lubricant sump,use UHMWPE as a seal,and silicone seal lube from Graco .A I litre bottle should last years.

I would guess the solution lies in a teflon filled polymer seal,as the teflon deposits on the metal surface and provides a run dry lubrication........For an economical teflon seal,Ive found the ones made of thin (002/003) teflon sheet cut into "washers" and stacked into a seal the required thickness.Needs to be clamped in the housing tho,something like a gland nut,but not further adjustable after being set tight.

Ive had bigger RN s over the years ,mostly E4s and E6s and the D 4s,which were very common here once ,as the DCA bought several hundred gensets with them.They sold them with very low hours,some never started,and still in crates.......then they scrapped all the spares,instead of putting them up for tender.........asbestos scare ,I think....Funny how one day the govt can be taking delivery of a shipload of asbestos lagging,next day there is a panic ,and they are paying millions to get rid of it all.

Nasty seizure on one piston,incipient seizure on the other.......possibly due to your problem with heavy deposit buildup......You should note the black marks on the seized piston are actually a hard alloy of iron and aluminium,and will score a cast iron liner.

Hydraulic seals are generally polyurethane.....I would suggest you change to a material which can use water as a lubricant........natural rubber is one,and I have no doubt a seal specialist could recommend others more modern.....Although some seals using teflon sinters and the like are kinda spendy.

Mention of being unable to look ....then get one of the little cameras on a lead from ebay for around $12-$20.....Id be inclined to put a positive breather on the crankcase,and get a little depression inside the motor.......the oil will not be blown out by positive pressure,and with a little luck may be pulled in........I have had a lot of oil leaks in these motors from behind the pump chamber.....the camshaft is easy fix,simply add another seal,double sealing it......Also be aware too high an oil level will cause major leaks,and adding more oil simply perpetuates the flow.

One sign of over advanced injection timing is increased cyclic irregularity ,both at idle and to a lesser extent thru the whole rev range.....if you look in any book on diesel engineering,you will find that a few extra degrees of advance increases peak cylinder pressures greatly ,and its not difficult to actually double peak pressure to the order of 1000psi or more.......and in my experience retarded timing can cause black smoke,not white,which is unburnt fuel,but does not make starting more difficult.......always providing its a matter of 5deg out or so.

Over advanced is hard to start too,generally with lots of white smoke before it starts.Not to mention excessive bearing loads.......do not over advance any diesel to cure smoke ,it doesnt work,and may wreck the motor......I suggest you look at ways to increase the running temp.........intake air from around exhaust,blanking part of the cooling air,or recirculating cooling air........I still think you may have the wrong nozzles, pistons,or pistons in back to front........white smoke is caused by fuel spraying on cold metal ,and not burning fully.

The AC lift pump was originally a cheapie produced specially for the 1934 Hillman Wizard....the cheapest car on the market in the worst year of the depression.....The more expensive AC pumps had valve chambers that could be unscrewed and cleaned,without disturbing the mounting.......somehow ,this cheap pump became the standard AC pump.

And clean the fine mesh plastic strainer in the pump inlet......the only known way to clean these is with a reverse jet of pressure water......or buy a couple of new ones.....PS ..dont drop any springs or screws into the bilge when removing the fitting.

Where the liner is heavily pitted just above the upper land,the corresponding surface in the block is also heavily pitted rather than being a smooth cylinder......and this pitting will tear the new O rings as a new liner is pushed in.....I admit Ive never mucked around with JPs,but in Caterpillars of considerable value,Ive filled the cavitated area with devcon to restore a smooth surface for the liner seals.....Once the liner is installed ,it doesnt matter if the filler falls out,as its job is done..... the hole can also be bored out and a sleeve fitted......not cheap ,tho.

The lifter is a simple spring loaded plunger on a rocker cover,no reason why you couldnt have both.......I expect the covers simply swap over.....and if you have a minimum of engineering gear,you could make your own modification of the existing covers.