john.k

The reason it stalls once it gets hot is the hot fuel is thinner,and the effect of wear in the fuel metering setup in the pumping units is more pronounced..........the explanation being wear and leakage paths......consult any book on diesel engineering for a picture of a worn plunger and barrel.

Set one up....a paddle wheeler.....or sidewheeler to be more correct.......the tractor tranny shares most parts with the marine one.

or ,to cut through the waffle ,you can simply speed up the idle a bit.

The Velvet drive is also used with a torque converter,and for some reason some blow oil out the filler /breather....cure is to install a large capacity catch can ................Dexron can assume a pink colour when its aerated................with water its a very anaemic pink like a blancmange.....a pink one ......

There may be just excessive backlash in the setup..................I remember the old Gardner/ Daimler diesel buses as a kid.......the motors would slow to a near stall,and then kick up causing all the money in the coin trays to jump out.,and were set to idle so slow the body work would rattle and shake as the buses stopped for a multitude of schoolkids to troop off......Some idled around 120 rpm ,I reckon.....and I really wanted a Gardner,but the old man said they were so dear only governments could own them..... years.later on.I bought a council bus with bits missing,and made the replacement long governor link from a piece of bent wire.

OK,sorry Peter G .......didnt mean to sound crabby.

What new fangled governor adaptations?....electronic injection?........monumental piffle..........the governor rack,rack bushings,geared quadrants ,and entire fuel controll mechanism is there ..........no need to measure,simply squirt in some oil ,clean oil of course,with an oil can......without oil ,the mechanism will rely on thin diesel leakage for lubrication,which may have been marginal when diesel was dark brown with heavy fractions,but the thin kerosine like diesel today lubricates nothing.....Oil the mechanism before governor action becomes jerky ,and the parts wear out.,and oil it frequently.......and while you are at it,oil all the pins and linkages in the governor.....And put some oil in the opposite end where the overfuel mechanism is.......dont let it go rusty.

Not unless you have a free supply of bearings......the LW oil filters undersized anyway,and should be cheap......which doubtless they are not..............PS dont forget to drain the filter housing before removing the filter.

Everyone is familiar with STP oil additive........thick and sticky as sn**..............anyhoo,it turns out this stuff is an excellent ultra high pressure lubricant for metal stamping and forming,and deep drawing of brass and aluminium.

i know one boatie listened to a stupid idea to tip a litre of dishwashing liquid into his fuel to solve the water in the tank issue.........if he ever gets the jelly out of the tank,he might be able to check for water.

i got the diesel bug really bad one time I used a mix of jet kero and waste oil..............everytime I went to start the boat,the DPA pump would have a frozen metering spindle,its only opened by a flimsy spring,but closed by a rigid link.........apparently this is why jet kero must be changed every month........anyway,the biocide additive did cure the issue....but I must have cleaned the little strainer in the pump inlet 20 times.......Its almost impossible to keep water out of a boat tank.

Bolts or studs?-----big difference in outcomes.....#1 says bolts.

I have noticed that the DPA pumps can raise tempers to boiling point very quickly.Must be a design fault.

The parts book lists the LR as 1949 on,and the LD as 1952 on....so its reasonable to assume one superceded the other............therefore ,I suggest you will have a LD from a 1968 cement mixer........the book also suggests repair parts are mostly the same ,especially important ones such as VRS kit,and valves...which incidentally seem to be the same I&Ex.

We used to burn out oil fouled mufflers with the oxy /acetylene......start the fire in one end,depress the oxy lever ,shut offf the fuel gas.....and a ring of red hot and a 10 foot flame will shootout the end of the exhaust.....the redhot ring will travel along the exhaust as the goo burns out......be prepared for bulk smoke ,tho.......Dorman 6 DL powered gensets were notorious for fouling ,and then catching fire.