john.k

On the reversible hydraulic governor,its only necessary to remove the screw on the same side as the lever......the spindle is retained by a single groove.........dont disturb the governor mount to the pump,leave the other screw tight,remove the screw ,pull our lever/spindle ,replace O ring ,and re install..............simple,and no gasket is required................if you want, you can replace the stopping lever o ring in the same way...................dont remove both screws at once,just one,and the governor stays put.

Excuse my ignorance of BMC product,but is the unit being refered to the "Reversable" DPA hydraulic governor?.....if so ,I have a unit right by me .Or is it the mechanical governor,which needs a good deal more care in removal and replacement.,,,,,,both units use 2x 20c O rings,so repair is very cheap if you do it yourself.

Cartoon canal boats chug every 10 seconds,so you re only going to get three chugs........which may be more than enough for most.

I make sure to paint anything made of copper ,brass ,bronze or ally,with either red oxide or mica black...........The marine thieves round here come with chainsaws on the off chance of a brass porthole or hatch fitting,and the glint of polished metal is a magnet .

Not quite as much Brasso applied to your engine as the one in the pic.............you would know if the bleed was blocked when you changed the small filter ........

The small drilled hole (green dots) in the pic is the air bleed ,for a gravity tank ,there is a fitting with a thumbscrew to bleed the system after a filter change,with the Amal lift pump,there is a plug in the small threaded hole at top,and any air is continuously bled away into the return pipe to the tank.....So after a filter change ,initial bleeding is by pumping the lever on the Amal.......the green dotted drilling must be clear for both systems,or air cannot be vented................with a diesel ,fuel pressure is not critical,but must be high enough to feed the injector pump reliably.

You dont need to hear.even if you are stone deaf,just "feel"the pipe with the engine running.........preferably on a bend,where the pulse is stronger.......I recently had a problem with a 4LW,where the lifter in the Gardner part of the cambox was stuck partially,preventing full injection.......when I fiddled with it,the lifter stuck fast,and took a bit to free............the cause in my case being water /rainwater entering thru the little port...........I managed to free it without dismantling the pump...........by the not recomended method of removing the delivery valve ,and driving the whole lot down.............DONT do this if you have shaky hands or no spare pump bits...................you should also be aware injector line leaks inside the rocker cover may wreck the motor if neglected.

Grassman,you do not need to remove injectors,all you need to do if the pump becomes completely airbound is to crack all the injector lines on the head......Not disconnect,not free many turns.......crack so fuel froth comes out..............after bleeding the pump and filter a good as you can........if you froth the fuel in the pump,,let things settle for 10 minutes ,and air will come out without venting gallons of fuel.............my method is to start with the lines just cracked ,and as froth stops nip up the union nut.on each cylinder ,and the motor should fire evenly.................EDIT........all this can be avoided by making sure the system is bled properly before cranking over.If the engine starts ,runs for 10 secs,then stops,you are in trouble as the pump is completely airbound with frothed fuel.

Its a pity you ve wasted money on a prima........find a proper Perkins like a 3/152D or a 4/203D,with a round #3 SAE housing,and a gearbox will be easily fitted.

........if you have a gravity tank,then you will have no trouble,if the lift pump has a long lift ,that where trouble lies.............for those who dont know,the AC lift pump was originally designed to be a cheap alternative to the "Autovac"on the 1934 Hillman Wizard..."cheapest car on the market.".........AC also made more expensive pumps with removable valve chambers ,and proper brass fittings.,but British engines never used them.....preferring .instead to use Amal pumps where better quality was indicated.....Gardner and various other diesel makers used them.More used the CAV plunger pump on the injector pump.

If you buy clean fuel,and there is no water in the tank,then there is no need to regularly change fuel filters...........they will happily run for years with clean fuel,even on a truck that uses thousands of gallons........edit...........bleeding a 296 filter and a DPA pump is a job for someone with a middling amount of mechanical knowlege.........and before you do,I suggest you get a couple of the little bleed screws for the pump in case you drop one................be aware ,if you stsrt the engine with air in the system,it will then be vry problematic to get it bled ,and will need some experience..........and just nip up the bleeder screws,dont break them off.

Ram pumps are typically displacement pumps,and dont wear the cylinder ,but have packing on the ram which need renewing,and if there is wear ,it will be on the ram.........but the ram can also be resleeved or hardchromed if necessary,but its more usual to make a new one. from hard stainless.

When diesels are run at low load/temp /high speed ,a condition known as bore glazing sets in...which will eventually result in very smoky exhaust , loss of compression and hard starting...Very common in gensets used in houses ,where the only load is a few lights.

Crossley are much better known for the giant single cylinder gas engines they made from the 1890 s onward.........Some were as big as 250 hp working on sawdust and mill waste.gas.,in sawmills ,and on town gas .

Seems to be a pre 57 with thick bronze shell mains..........best avoided,as they are very costly to replace..........post 57 has common $10 prefinished shells......