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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Mike Adams

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woking

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • Boat Name
    White Heather
  • Boat Location
    Woking/Brinklow

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  1. You can get new aluminium framed windows which would be the best solution but I think you are looking at several thousand to replace them all. I don't know about the state of the rest of the boat but those old dutch cruisers were usually built with quite thin steel (4mm) and if not well maintained can have some issues.
  2. I hope you are correct. I think at 700rpm the prop will only absorb 0.75KW if it takes 6KW to turn it at 1650rpm. Maybe the one horse is enough! It always used to be.
  3. Try Karndean Palio click. It has all the advantages of karndean but you can lift it up if you need to. Used it several times and is totaly plastic and hardwearing.
  4. These are typical dutch boat windows held in by a rubber seal just like a car. I would take one window out (the worst one) and you may not find the rust is as bad as you think it just pushes the rubber seal away from the surface and you get leaks. Take the window out and clean back to bear metal and prime it well (several coats). Once you have taken the rubber seal out you will find a lot of rust in the groove. If you want to reuse the rubbers you need to get all of it out. Better if you can find new rubbers. Because of the pits left by the rust you will have to reseal between the rubbers and the metal using something like sikaflex ebt. Might not cost you more than a few quid.
  5. Interesting point about altitude. As the system is pressurised to 15psi (I think) would it make any difference in Standedge? I was thinking about that one but I assume the cap works on absolute rather than differential pressure.
  6. My recently installed skin tank and engine have a capacity of 30 litres. I am loathe to put conventional antifreeze in the system in case I have to drain it down or get a leak and need to get rid of 30 litres of used coolant full of ethyl glycol. Screwfix do a central heating inhibitor and antifreeze that it says is safe to dispose of down a sewer. I was wondering if this would be OK instead of the conventional car stuff and it works out about the same price. Flowmasta corrosion inhibited antifreeze it is called and I don't suppose it would have any effect on the heat transfer.
  7. I was assuming you had a narrowboat. The main problem with such a large propeller with little pitch will be with weed and plastic. Anything around the prop will load the prop much more than a smaller one because it is pushing the rubbish at a higher speed and have more more effect on the prop performance because of the lower pitch. In theory a larger propeller would be more efficient but would need fairly thin blades - not a good idea on a canalboat. If a large prop with a very low pitch worked well you would see more of them about which is not my experience however good luck with it. The method of producing the power at the shaft is not important nor is torque at low speed since the propeller offers little resistance at very low speed.
  8. Could I suggest that the motor is overloaded and that is why it is creating too much heat. I am not sure what motor/driver you have but a 19 x10 prop will require a lot more than 6KW to turn it at 1500 rpm. The prop loading goes up as a cube power of the speed that is why it is so difficult to get exactly the correct prop to get full power at the rated speed. I terms of prop size it is much too large and you can't alter the aspect ratio so much without losing efficiency. Look at the prop size for a 8HP stuart turner for example. You can use the free prop calculators on line to find a optimum prop. I would guess about 14 inches max diameter. Otherwise you need a reduction gearbox.
  9. Must be the weather. Today the Izusu engine hours display came on, which it had never done in my ownership and the needle was stuck as far as it could go! After turning it off for a few minutes it was back to normal with no display and the needle in roughly the right place. There must be fix for this.
  10. Mike Adams

    Fuel Pump

    On my Isuzu55 as soon as you turn the ignition switch on the electric pump starts running and pumps fuel back into the tank. You can hear it running in when the tank is near empty. As the tank is above the level of the injection pumps it makes no difference if you turn the ignition and pump off, the engine just keeps running. It is good to know it will still run if the electric pump packs up - probably the most unreliable thing on the engine.
  11. I don't think I shall ever have need for this engine. The question is should I try to sell it in a dismantled condition or put it back together and sell it. I suppose if someone wants to put in a boat they probably would want to satisfy themselves that is fine by taking it apart anyway to check everything.
  12. I would recommend the process at Debdale. 4 years after blasting, zinc spraying, and two pack with an 85 year old hull and no signs of any problems. It is shame about the waiting list at Debdale. I was hoping to have my other boat done sometime. I have never used Zinga but other zinc based paints I have used don't seem to work that well. I think Zinga is single pack paint. If that is used as a first coat it may be the weak link between the steel surface and the two coat finish. I think there are lot of two pack coatings that will work well directly on properly shot blasted steel. The advantage of Debdale is that they have very controlled conditions inside the facility which gives much better control of the whole process. Time will tell if these processes are more cost effective but if I can get 10 years between repaints I will think it well worthwhile compared to spending weeks blacking in a dry-dock. The only disadvantage of two pack coating seems to be fading to a grey over time.
  13. This boat is rather unusual for a 'narrow' boat being only about 6' 6" width of hull 62 feet long and quite slippery. It is a good copy of a Bridgewater Canal little packet from 1875 with a fine bow and long swim so as long as it isn't dragging the bottom it's good. It soon gets up to a good speed and takes a long time to slow down even on the shallow Basingstoke Canal so 55Hp is really not normally needed but at just over tick over at about 1000 rpm everything goes nicely. I am yet to try it on a river but it should go well enough. I have seen a widebeam brick (12ft beam x 2'8" draft) try to push its way along the Basingstoke - very hard on the canal and its banks due to the backflow around the boat. Isn't that why they gave up with wide beamed powered working boats on the GU? I am not anti-wide beam by the way but I lot of their modern hull designs (do they have any?) are not sympathetic to the waterways they are being sold to be used on unless they go at a snail’s pace or get a horse(or is that not allowed anymore because of upsetting continuous moorers). Apologies for rant.
  14. The system is great apart from being a little too quick on tick over so I want to stick with it. The control valve and prv are integrated to the side of the reservoir tank all next to the engine at the front of the boat with just two pipes going to the stern to the hydraulic motor. As the motor is fixed displacement as well it is effectively a 2:1 reduction system (19cc/rev pump and 39 cc/rev motor). What I need is the hydraulic equivalent of a 'trolling valve' which fishing boats use. I think I need a flow control valve (electrically operated?) to take say 50% of the motor flow when engaged and the engine running at tick over. At 800rpm tick over the flow rate would be 19cc x 800 = 15200cc/min so if half that say is diverted through the valve, the flow rate to the motor will be halved and the prop speed reduced by half. This might make a two speed gearbox? I remember visiting Venice where the Vaporetto Ferries seem to have two speed gearboxes which give them higher torque when starting and stopping and then 'change up when under way'. I know that more modern hydraulic drives use a variable displacement pump which I guess gives infinite control of the flow and hence the prop speed regardless of engine speed but mine isn't in that league. I will see if I can find a suitable valve.
  15. As it is hydraulic drive I maybe able to introduce a flow diverter at tick over to reduce the prop speed. Maybe a bypass valve to take 50% of the flow from the motor operated by an electrical switch? It's such a pain to have to drop in and out of gear all the time.
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