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Mike Adams

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    White Heather
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  1. The temperature sensor is on the ECU circuit board and is held against the burner housing by a spring clip and screw. There seems to be two devices used, one having two pins and another 3. Can't see any numbers on them. One could be the sensor and the other a cut out
  2. I suppose if you know how much fuel you are using and its calorific value you can work it out from that. I think 5Hp would be the minumum because you have friction losses, alternator, water pump etc and the engine is not running at its most efficient.
  3. I assume diesels are about 50% efficient so an engine producing 10Hp will also give out 10Hp or about 7Kw of heat energy. The thermostat will keep a modern engine at the correct temperature unless the flow though the calorifier coil is excessive and that can be controlled by an orrifice/valve. But as been said above it is the temperature difference that is important and I don't think having a two stage process ie into the calorifier and back out through the 2nd coil would give enough temperature difference to get the rads hot.
  4. I shall be fitting some radiators (6 small ones) in the boat and thinking of changing to a dual heating coil calorifier to get hot water from the webasto. One heating from the engine, one from the webasto. Standard stuff using a webasto diesel heater with its own self contained circuit. It would be nice to get some free heat from the engine while moving. Has anyone extracted heat from the calorifer via the calorifer coil to feed the rads while the engine is heating it via the other coil? Otherwise I am thinking of puting another heat exchanger in the water outlet from the engine before it goes to the skin tank. Also what size header tank would be needed for the webasto? Thanks
  5. I would suggest that before you do anything I would buy a cheap £50 chinese ultrasonic thickness tester from ebay. I have found they work well enough when the boat is in the water so clean up some small patches first and check the thickess is good enough say 4mm+. In the past I have brushed off the loose rust, soaked in fertan,washed off and dried followed by a couple of coats of red oxide and then covered with a thick coat of "barge grease". If it is pitted you will never get all the rust off without blasting but the grease keeps the oxygen away so prevents further corrosion.
  6. I can confirm John was around last summer when I met him to discuss 'Frodsham' a replica tug he built in 1987 am I am currently renovating.
  7. If they can find out the previous insurers of the boat sometimes they will take it on provided the last survey was not too long ago. Get at least 3rd party for the time being. It seems that most insurance companies are reluctant to take on old boats now. I know mine will not take on new clients but are happy to continue to insure me for the moment. It is becoming a big problem for some historic boat owners and many surveyors won't touch them. The costs of slipping a barge and a survey in the UK every few years probably doubles the cost of the insurance.
  8. I think this but others will know more 1. Yes - only the one in the circuit 2. Not if they are properly fixed 3.If one fails does not effect the others and different pressure/temp requirements - engine is pressurised, back boiler vented to air? 4.Not a good Idea 5. Better to have back boiler vented to outside air pressure maybe a failsafe PRV in my opinion with a high header tank. 6. You don't seem to have any way of controlling the pump and it will act as its own one way valve. Depending on the pump. I don't think thermo -syphon will work on its own unless you are very lucky and if you use a small circulating pump you can use smaller bore pipe. you might well need a circulation pump on the boiler primary as well. All depends on the physical layout.
  9. The Basingstoke Canal is closed in Woking until the end of March 2020. If it opens on time then April/May is a good time to visit. If it is a hot and dry Spring/Summer expect the water to run out in June/July.
  10. Try to get some ptfe based packing if you can. I have found it works much better if you have worn bearings
  11. Measure the OD of the shaft and the OD of the slider, subtract one from the other and divide by 2 - probably 6mm or 1/4"
  12. 6mm pop rivet. Drill it out next time you take the lid off.
  13. What I have noted from the helpful postings on this topic is that quite a lot of weedhatches do leak underway if not sealed properly even though they are well above the water level and presumably fitted with a baffle at the height of the counter. Whilst it obviously depends on the location relative to the prop as to if it leaks more in ahead or astern what impact does the actual size make? I seem to have quite a large weedhatch at about 400mm x450mm and the prop tips are a good 150mm below the counter and a long swim which could account for the fact that it doesn't leak underway. Maybe the edges around the baffle plate being well away from the prop are not so subject to increased water pressure. Just something I had not really thought about before. I might be talking rubbish at this time of night which is why you need a weedhatch anyway. Thanks Mike
  14. I didn't know about this 10 inch thing - is that the same as outlets and openings in the hull? I can't raise the hatch because the steering quadrant (wheel steering) is only just above the hatch so there is not enough room to raise it. Thanks for all the helpful comments. I think I will bolt it down with the 8 s/s bolts with a seal yet to be decided and only use the weedhatch in the most dire of circumstances and hope that this will be OK with a surveyor when a survey is needed.
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