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Mike Adams

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    White Heather
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  1. Thanks for the information. I didn't make it clear that I was going to Hudds via the Huddersfield narrow and go back via the Rochdale if I can otherwise back via the narrow or down and around the L and L. Looks like the cill is well above water level but doesn't stick out much anyway. Suppose I can always give it a try.
  2. This may seem I very daft question but I am thinking of taking my 60ft and a bit boat to Huddersfield and back via the Rochdale. I have been told that 60ft in the maximum and this is the sticking point but my boat has a very pointy bow is less than 6'10" and the stern counter sticks out a couple good of feet beyond the rudder. If I pump out the water tanks I can make the counter above water level by several inches. My theory is that depending on the cill position relative to the empty lock and water level in the pound I might be able to squeeze in backwards with the counter just over the cill.
  3. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  4. The core of the issue is finding the input and output of water from the block. It clearly goes out of the engine via the thermostat housing so it must go in somewhere. This could have originally via the back of the jabsco or some other route via a pipe for example into the base of the block coolant. The problem of overheating may have been due to internal corrosion. It may have originally worked with a hole in the backplate but eventually internal corrosion led to overheating and someone may have blanked off the backplate and fed the water in though some other point at the other end of the en
  5. I have had three nb's with wooden tops one of which I built and I currently still have. All of them have had some plywood content which is where the problems generally occur first. The problem with all wooden tops is that your have to accept they require almost continuous maintenance and that what appears to be a small amount of rot, when it dries out is considerably larger. Unless you can completely remove the rotten wood and dry it out completely any covering such as GRP is likely to increase the rate of decay. I guess your main concern is damp and leaks unless a high quality appearance is
  6. Easy to check just pour some water into the engine block though the water pump housing. If it comes out of that pipe all is good
  7. I think the OP might have just disconnected the second connection. Someone may have tried to feed the jabsco from the back housing,which wouldn't work hence the blanked up hole. I suspect all that has to be done is connect the output of the pump LH side, looking at the top, to the block input which may be that pipe sticking up. A case of the 'engineer' not knowing what he was doing. Simple fix.
  8. Whilst it looks like a very bad system to me, with direct cooling, if you have water coming out and therefore water going in it should work. I suspect the thermostat has been removed otherwise there will be too much back pressure for the jabsco. Check the flow of water out of the thermostat housing and into the manifold. If you have direct cooling you can't use the circulation pump because it is not self priming. You won't need much flow to give the engine cool. Water comes out of the jabsco and into the block somewhere, it then exits via the thermostat housing and through the water cooled man
  9. Here is t Boater briefingManaging short stay moorings at Environment Agency-owned locations on the non-tidal River ThamesV1 April2021IntroductionIf you received a 2021 boat registration renewal reminderfrom us, you will be aware from the accompanying newsletter that we appointed District
  10. I think this diagram might help
  11. Depending on the motor type the top pipe will be a leak off from the motor (bent axis or similar) and will only be low pressure but it could also be from the control valve/PRV if this is remote again at low pressure possibly with a dip tube inside the tank.
  12. My system uses iso 37 if that is any help, available from Smith and Allen.
  13. Have you a picture of the drive motor on the propeller shaft and the control valve? That would be helpful in analyzing the system. I suspect the brass plug may have a dipstick if you unscrew it.
  14. Yep - been on the market for a couple of years. I thought it was 1.5M originally on the floodplain. A much better proposition is this one:- https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/104900498#/media?id=media5&ref=photoCollage which is on the lock island above Boulter's lock.
  15. One of the top paddles has come out, what seems to be a simple job is taking rather a long time but hardly a stuctural failure,
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