Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Mike Adams

Member
  • Content Count

    264
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

25 Neutral

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woking

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • Boat Name
    White Heather
  • Boat Location
    Woking/Brinklow

Recent Profile Visitors

1764 profile views
  1. With a conventional drive when the prop is overloaded or fouled, provided the gearbox is not slipping, the engine will not speed up and you will get black smoke but in a hydraulic drive excess loading on the pump could open the relief valve allowing the engine to rev and cutting power to the prop , as you slow down the relief vave will close again and you will get back some drive. I am not sure why this would cause the filter to blow abut it depends on the set up and how the filter is positioned in the hydraulic circuit. If the PRV is set too low this would happen but if set too high and the propeller hits something you may cause damage to the system or burst a pipe.
  2. I have an Isuzu 55 and so far it has been without problems. My understanding that it is based on either the isuzu 4LE1 or 4LE2 engine, the 4LE2 being slightly smaller. There also seems to be some confusion as to direct or indirect injection. I was thinking of picking up an industrial engine, that are available at a reasonable price, as a spare just in case. Does anyone know if all the marinisations were of one type and what to look for?
  3. Have you looked at 'The other sixty miles' by Richard Chester Brown, published in 1981 by the BCNS. It has a lot of sketch maps with intechange basins shown?
  4. I would like to see this film as my tug 'White Heather'' was owned by BTW/BW during that period and worked on that stretch.
  5. I'm not sure what the underwater profile of this boat is but with my tug with a round bilge, centre wheelhouse, and deep draft a completely different strategy is required to that with a narrowboat. Unless the water is very deep I always come to a slow stop well away from the bank, turn in at 45 degrees and bring the bow into the bank and just as you are about to hit the bank give the stern a nudge with the engine just to bring the stern in a bit If you are going too fast and try to stop the boat by going astern near the bank with such a powerful engine it will just push it away again before you have got out of the wheelhouse grabbed a line etc. If you have a crew let them jump off at the bow with a line but not hold the bow and get them to come to the centre/stern for a line. They can pick up the bow line later after you have got ashore. On canals I never expect to get right into the bank so it is a bonus when you do. Nice boat but like mine there is a lot of clambering in and out of the wheelhouse if you are short-handed.
  6. The temperature sensor is on the ECU circuit board and is held against the burner housing by a spring clip and screw. There seems to be two devices used, one having two pins and another 3. Can't see any numbers on them. One could be the sensor and the other a cut out
  7. I suppose if you know how much fuel you are using and its calorific value you can work it out from that. I think 5Hp would be the minumum because you have friction losses, alternator, water pump etc and the engine is not running at its most efficient.
  8. I assume diesels are about 50% efficient so an engine producing 10Hp will also give out 10Hp or about 7Kw of heat energy. The thermostat will keep a modern engine at the correct temperature unless the flow though the calorifier coil is excessive and that can be controlled by an orrifice/valve. But as been said above it is the temperature difference that is important and I don't think having a two stage process ie into the calorifier and back out through the 2nd coil would give enough temperature difference to get the rads hot.
  9. I shall be fitting some radiators (6 small ones) in the boat and thinking of changing to a dual heating coil calorifier to get hot water from the webasto. One heating from the engine, one from the webasto. Standard stuff using a webasto diesel heater with its own self contained circuit. It would be nice to get some free heat from the engine while moving. Has anyone extracted heat from the calorifer via the calorifer coil to feed the rads while the engine is heating it via the other coil? Otherwise I am thinking of puting another heat exchanger in the water outlet from the engine before it goes to the skin tank. Also what size header tank would be needed for the webasto? Thanks
  10. I would suggest that before you do anything I would buy a cheap £50 chinese ultrasonic thickness tester from ebay. I have found they work well enough when the boat is in the water so clean up some small patches first and check the thickess is good enough say 4mm+. In the past I have brushed off the loose rust, soaked in fertan,washed off and dried followed by a couple of coats of red oxide and then covered with a thick coat of "barge grease". If it is pitted you will never get all the rust off without blasting but the grease keeps the oxygen away so prevents further corrosion.
  11. I can confirm John was around last summer when I met him to discuss 'Frodsham' a replica tug he built in 1987 am I am currently renovating.
  12. If they can find out the previous insurers of the boat sometimes they will take it on provided the last survey was not too long ago. Get at least 3rd party for the time being. It seems that most insurance companies are reluctant to take on old boats now. I know mine will not take on new clients but are happy to continue to insure me for the moment. It is becoming a big problem for some historic boat owners and many surveyors won't touch them. The costs of slipping a barge and a survey in the UK every few years probably doubles the cost of the insurance.
  13. I think this but others will know more 1. Yes - only the one in the circuit 2. Not if they are properly fixed 3.If one fails does not effect the others and different pressure/temp requirements - engine is pressurised, back boiler vented to air? 4.Not a good Idea 5. Better to have back boiler vented to outside air pressure maybe a failsafe PRV in my opinion with a high header tank. 6. You don't seem to have any way of controlling the pump and it will act as its own one way valve. Depending on the pump. I don't think thermo -syphon will work on its own unless you are very lucky and if you use a small circulating pump you can use smaller bore pipe. you might well need a circulation pump on the boiler primary as well. All depends on the physical layout.
  14. The Basingstoke Canal is closed in Woking until the end of March 2020. If it opens on time then April/May is a good time to visit. If it is a hot and dry Spring/Summer expect the water to run out in June/July.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.