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Mike Adams

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Woking

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  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • Boat Name
    Frodsham
  • Boat Location
    Woking

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  1. In my experience of converting vehicle engines for boats is that most modern engines are direct injection so tend to be loud and they have a habit of having nasty resonances just about the speed you would normally want for a canal boat ie just past tickover. Unless you have access to machining facilities any one off conversion is going to be difficult and could make the boat difficult to sell on. Most car engines don't have an SAE flange on the gearbox so you would also need to make a bellhousing or adapt a vehicle gearbox. The best quiet engines are kubota, the parts are widely available and can be found secondhand. Otherwise for a larger slow running engine look at John Deere or isuzu - they are often fitted in plant and generators and can be easily adapted for marine use. A good place to start is emergency fire pumps as they often come with heat exchangers and other stuff which can be used in a marinisation.
  2. It's called Cartbridge Basin and the fees are about 5K plus for a 60ft boat. When I inquired they had a waiting list. If you want a mooring ion the Wey try the National trust they are much cheaper but without facilities and strictly non residential.
  3. Mike Adams

    Mike Adams

  4. Mike Adams

    Mike Adams

  5. Ah I regret selling the Silverlit! I did think of buying back when I passed it ther a few years ago. Now that did have a Ford 6 cylinder that I dragged out of the Gannex Mac Factory in the East End of London. The engines in the White Heather I believe were as follows. Originally fitted with a Robey 2 cylinder semidesel, changed by waterways to Lister FR3 both in the original location. Jason fitted the Ford under the rear deck and when I bought it was shot. Then fitted nice dorman LD3 crane engine (too heavy) and then the toyota which it still has.
  6. I suppose I shouldn't comment on this post but as the seller I have no idea what it is worth as it is a unique craft so I am starting with the insurance valuation. I am more concerned that it goes to a good home rather than ending up as a liveaboard in London so price is not critical. As far as the hull goes there is always the possibility of find a thin bit or bad rivet on a 90 year old boat but on the last survey all readings were 5-6mm bar one which was 4.4. As the hull and superstructure is all steel no water gets into the boat and any that would drains to a single point so internal corrosion is not a problem. After the last survey the boat was blasted, molten zinc sprayed and two packed by debdale; an expensive process but it really lasts. I know the engine is strange but to turn the original propeller it would have needed a heavy engine to give the right torque characteristics but as the engine had already been located under the stern deck this would have led to too much rear draft. The 4litre 6 cylinder engine is indirect combustion, high torque and with a heavy flywheel ticks over slowly and has proved totally reliable over twenty years. If anyone wanted to sacrifice some of the accommodation I am sure it would be great with something like a K2 in it.
  7. Looks like I might just get through backwards in the right place. Thanks for the help.
  8. Just reading up on a possible trip to the middle level and it quotes 2'3" maximum draught at Standground for boats over 36'. That rules it out for me but as the lock is 80' long how does this work? Another source says you need to be careful with positioning the boat in the lock. Middle level quotes 3' generally. Anyone point me to some more detailed information?
  9. Now turned up as a 'cafe' on the Basingstoke Canal in Woking.
  10. Good point. I've taken the sealed unit apart and the contacts are not burned out and the led lights up when the switching voltage is reached but neither of two parallel relays operate. Without a circuit diagram and with surface mount components it's about as far as I can go with it. Just want to avoid it happening again. One of the reasons for connecting it the way I did was to avoid excess current in the relay.
  11. I seem to have blown up my 140A VSR. I started to the engine with the leisure battery isolator off by mistake. I have two alternators with their outputs connected together and connected to the leisure battery bank. The VSR supplies the starter battery. I assumed the VSR would cut in as soon as the alternator voltage rose above the cut in value of 13.3v. Could it be that the alternator voltage went too high and damaged the electronics in the relay control circuit before the relay closed. I don't know what the peak voltage is likely to be or whether the two alternators combined produce some high peaks. It's been Ok for a long time. I know you should connect the VSR supplying the leisure batteries but the leisure batteries were not getting charged at low revs which is most of the time. I suppose I could take a feed from the leisure battery to a relay to prevent the engine being started with the cut off switch open circuit.
  12. Did you have a hull thickness survey? If so how did the surveyor measure the hull thickness with the concrete? Some surveyors are not experienced with iron hulls. You really need to see both sides of the plating if possible. It looks as if the footings have been replaced in steel to me as the frames seem to be cut off. I think you may need to take the boat out of the water, remove the concrete and go around it with a heavy hammer. If you are lucky it might be just a local problem where water accumulates. How much of the hull has concrete in it?
  13. It looks like you have poured concrete in the bottom of the hull. Often used as a last resort. What does your survey say about the hull? I would not try to remove the concrete whilst in the water. There are plenty of yards that can deal with riveted hulls. Don't panic old boats do leak sometimes, it could just be a rivet that needs welding. I am surprised the surveyor didn't notice the concrete in the hull. I am assuming it has a steel bottom and not a wooden one. Other repairs would normally be overplating the damaged section or better still cutting out and rewelding in a new section.
  14. I can only speak as I find. Mine has proved very accurate. With a surveyor you are only buying some kind of insurance. They never do a very thorough job and often don't inspect internally and come with so many disclaimers anyway. Better off doing yourself and if in doubt get a very large hammer.
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