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RLWP

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RLWP last won the day on July 1 2019

RLWP had the most liked content!

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  • Website URL
    http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kenilworth
  • Interests
    Ooohh, loads of stuff
  • Occupation
    Layabout
  • Boat Name
    Tawny Owl

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  1. That's one of the things the timing tool does
  2. I have a timing tool, if that helps Richard
  3. Could always bump start it I guess...
  4. It is also hand start, which makes it a challenge for use in a boat
  5. Splendid, we specialise in the repair of old Lister engines. If you want an idea of what that might cost, give Sue a ring on Monday. 01926 356200 Richard
  6. The obvious solution would be to remove the engine. What engine is it? Richard
  7. That's my thought too. I'm interested to see what the old rods are like Richard
  8. Flush it through a few times in alternating directions to make sure it isn't blocked. Also flush the tank out as much as you can If the boat has a skin tank you don't really need a heat exchanger. I presume the rubber pump rotor is OK? Richard
  9. It needs violence to remove it - and be careful. The cap will probably be OK, if you strain the heat exchanger you'll make the tubes leak, and the shell is alloy and probably corroded. Don't be surprised if the flanges come off Why do you want to dismantle it? Richard
  10. Fuel pump door joint. If you are lucky, we have some old 'card' ones about which are far easier to fit Richard
  11. Makes a change. Usually I find old Lister masquerading as other old Listers due to parts being swapped around
  12. That is not a Lister Alpha Richard
  13. It is not unusual to find these engines installed with the skin tank on the port side, which is fine for the water outlet, calorifier and so on. The water inlet is on the starboard side above the flywheel housing through the oil cooler, which means there has to be a pipe going from one side to the other above the gearbox. Popular choices are lengths of hose or copper pipe fabrications These are fine, they can put strain on the oil cooler end cap which it isn't really designed for. Mind you, it isn't hard to attach the feed pipe to the oil cooler with cable ties in the absence of a more engineering solution Richard
  14. I was reflecting on this on the way home. The end cap on the oil cooler will be what caused the initial overheating. They are ok, but not really designed to support a length of water hose bouncing up and down The gasket failure happened exactly where the wrong head bolt had been fitted. Instead of the bolt with a small stud on top to support the dual alternator bracket, a plain bolt had been used - and tightened down hard distorting the bracket, which then bent and came loose I suspect the tappet fell apart when the pushrod was removed - that's a new one on me! And the broken spring on the fuel pump has probably been there for ages Also, the fresh water mussels in the Slough arm are magnificent! Richard I didn't have any tappets with me, unfortunately. We were out of stock
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