RLWP

If you haven't used it since 2020, I'd give it a good run before doing anything else Richard

You can't! It's propshaft off, reduction box off, gearbox top off, dismantle the cross shaft and pull out the half shafts, Remove the reverse toggle, remove the bolts that hold down the reverse band. Then you can lift out the clutch pack The pack needs a special tool to dismantle it unfortunately I've done two so far this year Richard

The forward clutch doesn't fail in many way. It could be stuck (in which case the engine stalls when you select reverse), It could have lost all the teeth on the fibre plates (in which case you'd have no forward), it can drag, or it can break and the broken parts wedge the plates in forward Have you got fully engaged forward, or is it just dragging? I suspect drag as you can get reverse. If it is dragging, chances are the fibre plates have distorted. The solution is to replace them Richard

We've got an old stock original pipe if you wanted to go that way. Chances are it is for fitting the gauge to the fan housing. Otherwise, it's going to be a standard BSP nut and nipple, you'll need to get the nipple fitted to your new pipe - I prefer silver soldering Richard

There may be a connection on the end of the fuel pump housing for a gauge Not all SR engines have one Richard

If anyone finds out, could they let me know? We're waiting for May 17th before deciding if there will be a BCN Challenge in 2021 Richard

That's a shame, we scrapped a 4DSM last year that had the instrument board in place - no instruments Richard

I'll have a check. I know we have an industrial FR2 in pieces, and I might be able to negotiate a loan of a part from a marine engine Richard

The Cruel Lea Richard

The only sure way is to saw it through and count the rings

Ours are fully rebuilt and set up, you'd get two for £150 Richard

HOW MUCH!!!??!!

We much prefer to fit the old style metal cased leather seals (AKA Weston seals) over modern lip seals. They're a bit more tolerant about dirt, damaged shafts and so on We've probably got them in stock Richard

You need to put the top ring into a clean ring groove, then put a feeler gauge between the side of the ring and the piston. As the piston moves up and down, the ring wears the side of the groove. Richard

It's the number of the piston, not the piston and ring assembly It doesn't have an oversize mark on it so it is probably standard The correct way to find out is to measure the bore! Do check that the ring groove on the top ring of the piston is OK. Richard