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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About Mikexx

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  1. Thornycroft 90 belts

    I got a Chinese equivalent of the A127 for a little over £50, where the output was via a stud. I thought as well as the paralled blade connections?
  2. Thornycroft 90 belts

    It looks like a BMC 1.8 to me.
  3. New batteries needed, AGM or FLA?

    That might be down to your controller.
  4. New batteries needed, AGM or FLA?

    Yes, but he also talked of his boat in Cardiff, have a look a a graph titled "Cardiff annual energy for flat panel (blue) tilted but fixed (red) and fully tracking (black)". I have no idea where you got your figures of 100W vs 3.5W, but the figures in Cardiff show an energy difference of 8:1, and with less daylight implies at noon the solar output at midday might be closer to 4:1
  5. New batteries needed, AGM or FLA?

    Just from articles I have read, an example: http://www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/solar-panels-everything-you-need-to-know-24455 Suggests that output in December is a nominal 12% of that available in summer in terms of energy kWhr. And I believe from a total of 200W panels. The OP has 600W.
  6. New batteries needed, AGM or FLA?

    This topic is of interest to me. 2 years of battery life with light use sounds worryingly short. To the OP: at what point do you change your batteries? No one has mentioned equalisation charging, which given the stationary nature of batteries on a boat might extend battery life, if not from desuplferisation, from reducing stratification of electrolyte. I had thought that solar could still provide a useful output during the winter months? Personally I would go for cheap batteries, its easy to damage batteries from unintended discharges, which will damage expensive batteries just as well as cheap. Battery technology is pretty mature, and I am yet to be convinced of the various buzzwords associated with 'new' technologies provide any meaningful extension to battery life. BICBW
  7. Mildew under mattress

    I'm not sure if this helps, but this article provides details of the necessary conditions fo mould growth: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mildew Without more details of ventilation, what the matress (type?) is resting on etc it's difficult to suggest anything.
  8. This would be done over a period of time, nevertheless temperature and condensation are a concern. Things start warming up in March. A heater in the bilge area might be an idea so there is no condensation on fresh paint. I think the hatch(es) will be sufficient to keep the heat in.
  9. The 'sort of allocated a weekend' was a finger waving exercise! I can probably add a couple of days in removing and replacing the engine, and another day of surface preparation.
  10. You're hiding well!! I believe I can get 3.6mm sheets of ply 2440mm x 1220mm. I need to check how good the faced side is, and then contemplate varnishing it. It's also an affordable solution. If I can get a nominal 4mm it should nicely fit the slot on the corner moulding.
  11. I've certainly searched for an equivalent and not got anywhere. The boat was built late 80's so perhaps some old stock. Its certainly worn well! Next is what to replace it with!!
  12. Many thanks. I was using the wrong search terms. This is 6mm thick and needs painting. It also only comes in 1220mm lengths which would need additional 'covering' up of joins. It is certainly an idea. I've had another at my ceiling and it a finished 3mm plywood. I can see top and bottom grain directions are different to the centre.
  13. Many thanks, the video was educational. I intend to nominally replicate what he did, though my boat is out of the water and I've errected a gantry to remove the engine and gearbox. I've sort of allocated a weekend in two weeks time to do the job, weather permitting!!
  14. Found it: https://cruisingthecut.co.uk/2018/01/31/vlog-125-utter-bilge/
  15. Many thanks. Isn't Vactan water based? So introducing damp?