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Plonk

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    68
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About Plonk

  • Birthday 08/08/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gillingham Dorset
  • Interests
    Music, Rotary, Real Ale

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Tool Hire
  • Boat Name
    Dreadlocks
  • Boat Location
    Devizes Marina

Recent Profile Visitors

1030 profile views
  1. Unfortunately the manual online only goes to page 109. Wiring is on page 129. On thinking about it,. I would guess that the wiring might be : 12v feed, buzzer out 12v no pressure, light out 12 v pressure. ? I will hopefully figure it out when the new switch comes.
  2. I will hopefully work out when Alan sends me the wiring diagram.
  3. No guage, just buzzer and light. There is a big white control box in the engine comparment though! The sender looks like a normal small low pressure warning sender I guess just simple contact switch inside.
  4. No guage, just buzzer and light.
  5. Hi folks. My Lister Lpws4 has a leaky low oil pressure sender. I think it must have been weeping for a while but I now think it is getting worse. The audible alarm stops when I start the engine, but I'm not sure if this alarm is also connected to the charge circuit. I don't appear to have a lighting up pressure warning light on the warning light panel. Before I change the sensor, I would like to find out what the 3 terminals are for. I am familiar with the single wire type connected on car's. 3 terminals seems two too many! Are they, + (feed), buzzer and light? As the unit is leaky, I guess it may be the cause of the warning lamp failure. On a car it would be a simple case of touching the sender +feed to earth, I fear if one of these wires is live, touching it to earth might blow something, as might connecting a live feed to one of the other terminals? I have no idea where I could get hold of a wiring diagram. Thanks in anticipation, Patrick.
  6. Thanks all. I will probably switch of the solar whilst cruising! luckily there is a breaker in both sides so easy to do. I thought they might have been duelling using lightning bolts Tree Monkey!
  7. Hi all. I have just installed 2x150w panels solar in parallel with a bn series mppt and mt 50 control panel. So far it has been ok, however, after running engine for a while this morning, in hot sun, the domestic alternator charge warning light came on bright. Thought the belt had broken to start with but it was ok. The light was going off and coming on sporadically. sometimes flashing. batteries were showing full-ish on the mt50. I disconnected the panels and all back to normal! so it appears some type of feed back? could it be a dodgy diode in the alternator? or something else? too much power from battery light feed to alternator because of Solar? Please, ideas anyone? The Alternator is wired in separately with a switch in the exciter/light feed wire. alternator and solar charge cables feed to the same battery terminals. should I change to a different terminal? Help!!!
  8. Thanks for all your comments. The flow was not too strong, but I think being deep drafted and 60ft made things feel worse than they were when I was sideways across the flow. At least we managed to shoot the rapids and bridge at Midgham without incident ! Frouds Bridge to Cropredy next week. I will be treating the rest of the lively river Kennet with much more respect. Hopefully older and wiser! At least on the Thames we are going uphill!
  9. Having been happily (and safely) pottering up and down the K&A for some years including the Avon down to Bath, we ventured on the river Kennet a month or two ago on our way to Aldermaston. The first lock after Newbury towards Reading incorporated a winding hole and lively, as it seemed to me then weir stream, although the weir was not in sight! Foolishly it turns out, I thought I could wait in mid stream for the lock to be ready and the following boat to catch up. I soon found myself caught in the weir flow and pulled sideways across the weir channel. We are 2ft 3" and 60ft long, so the turning effect was quite alarming. Not knowing quite what to do for the best, I panicked and wedged my nose in the lock entrance and scraped my way in when ready. Also scraping off lots of blacking on lock projections in the process! Yikes! Question? how should I have handled it? I suspect that the best course of action would have been to allow rotation into the stream 180 degrees in line with the weir flow and power away, but I was chicken to experiment in case I made things worse and the flow too strong for my engine (36 hp). Would the current have been as strong as it felt (due to my lack of experience on the Kennet and our draught), cos on reflection i doubt a winding hole would have been there if it was? Does anyone have experience of this particular weir? Yours in embarrassment Plonk(er).
  10. Thanks Tony and Chewbaca. I will see how they go on for a while.
  11. Hi All, Please could I have a little advice. My boat is fitted with a lister lpw4 water cooled engine and is now 20 years old. I changed the large hoses to the skin tank about 4-5 years ago, but whilst doing a couple of jobs yesterday realised that there was a small hose, running from the exhaust manifold marked 1999! I guess that the (Bowman?) heat exchanger end caps and water pump hose are the same age, they look OK, - no cracks etc outside, although the small pipe seems quite hard. Would it be recommended to change all the hoses as a matter of course? prevention better than a cure etc. I don't want to waste time and money needlessly! The motor is fitted with an overheat alarm, however, would this be likely to sound sufficiently early in the event of a hose failure to prevent engine damage? The engine is below some substantial boards so I doubt that I would see steam. Thanks in anticipation, Pat.
  12. We wandered along and chucked out money in the dish! Nice engine. We will be now be queing to get on the Cotswolds canal when it fully re-opens (we will of course be getting there via the Wilts and Berks as we are moored on the K & A at the moment). Hope we dont have to wait too long!
  13. Hi All My portholes are currently fixed in place by woodscrews, through the side of the boat and into mdf porthole liners with oak faces. I guess this is not normal practice? The liners are mostly salvagable, if a bit soft now. I am re sealing and re-fitting with fitting 4mm nutserts to screw the portholes too with brass machine screws. They were not very tightly fitted before! Previously, they were (almost) sealed with clear silicone, but I was intending to re seal them with Everflex 145 butyl sealant (from a mastic gun). It is quite soft and gooey, but the data says it never hardens, allows movement (5%) and can be painted over. Is this stuff good enough, allowing for future removal , longevity etc? has anybody else any experience of it? It would have a fairly thin but wide layer in the joint. Abour 1/2 mm I guess. Pat.
  14. Mine was written off by the previous owner, however it was an easy fix. The motor was ok but the solonoid operating rods had siezed. Cant remember who supplied the parts, but they are available. a bit of googling found them. Maybe your problem is similar?
  15. I would agree. I refitted my 4 on my boat a year ago. Admitted, Dreadlocks is 17 tears old and the rust had expanded the joint and snapped the heads off most of the screws!
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