Jump to content

Fridge

Mr Moggy

By Mr Moggy
in New to Boating?

 Share

Featured Posts

Mr Moggy Gongoozler

Mr Moggy

Posted
Posted

I am a newbie and just spent our first couple of nights on our boat, Blue Mist at Swanley, unfortunately we found that the fridge doesn't work although the light comes on, no ice cubes or chilled white, does anyone know if a Shoreline can be repaired as the price of a new one is ridiculous

Mr Moggy

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bizzard Veteran II

bizzard

Posted
Posted

I am a newbie and just spent our first couple of nights on our boat, Blue Mist at Swanley, unfortunately we found that the fridge doesn't work although the light comes on, no ice cubes or chilled white, does anyone know if a Shoreline can be repaired as the price of a new one is ridiculous

Mr Moggy

They need a good reliable 12v power supply and appropriately sized cabling. Are your batteries in good nick and charged up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mr Moggy Gongoozler

Mr Moggy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes all good just had it all serviced and checked out at Swanley and new batteries fitted so don't think thats the problem but I'm not good at 12v stuff, am thinking of using a 240 for the time being until I can get it repaired or buy a new one

Link to comment
Share on other sites
OldGoat Veteran II

OldGoatDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted (edited)

Shoreline fridges use the Dandfoss 12/24 compressor which is extremely reliable - Ours is approaching 20 years old and still going strong. However the case (provided by LEC needs a decent burial)

If your mistake is it's off - thermostat = 0 - then you have a solution above.

If not does the light flash?

 

Edit:

whoops missed intervening post....

Umm loose connection between the controller and compressor (not condenser?). They're Lucar type connectors and can come loose. After that I've run out of ideas.

 

They're worth persevering with (grammar) 'cos they save a lot of hassle. There's a chap selling 12V fridges who knows all about Danfoss kit in the Brum area who may be able to help - but be very polite as he has a lot of timewasters to date

Try:-

http://12v-fridges.com/

he's gone upmarket of late so may be under new ownership...

Edited by OldGoat
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Robbo Veteran II

Robbo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am a newbie and just spent our first couple of nights on our boat, Blue Mist at Swanley, unfortunately we found that the fridge doesn't work although the light comes on, no ice cubes or chilled white, does anyone know if a Shoreline can be repaired as the price of a new one is ridiculous

Mr Moggy

Does the light flash? If so... http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/assets/assets/BD35%20BD50%20Fault%20Diagnosis.pdf

 

The link also gives some good troubleshooting advice.

Edited by Robbo
Link to comment
Share on other sites
JamesWoolcock Proficient

JamesWoolcockDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

I am a newbie and just spent our first couple of nights on our boat, Blue Mist at Swanley, unfortunately we found that the fridge doesn't work although the light comes on, no ice cubes or chilled white, does anyone know if a Shoreline can be repaired as the price of a new one is ridiculous

Mr Moggy

I had my Shoreline fridge/freezer stop working after only about four years with the same apparent symptoms. Enquiries to the manufacturer pointed at the controller.

It was the time of the Crick Show so I paid, and they sent a replacement there and a friend picked it up and delivered it to me. I can't remember the cost, but it was reasonable. Then the big surprise; even I, who considers everything electrical to part of a black art, fitted it in minutes. Result ! as they say and still ok five years on.

Ring 'em up.

 

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Richard10002 Veteran II

Richard10002

Posted
Posted

The compressor on my Engel fridge runs 24/7. It's been diagnosed as a faulty compressor, and not leaked gas. Apparently something in the cylinder can wear, so it pumps away, but the gas doesn't compress. Needs a new compressor or a new fridge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

As others have said, there is a red LED that comes with a Shoreline fridge and attaches to the back somewhere with a wire and gives diagnostic information. Find it and report back what the flash pattern is, or look it up un the book. If you don't have it, order one from Shoreline and fit it. It's extremely useful!

 

Regarding the power supply, there is no substitute for measuring the voltage of the fridge input terminals. Just saying the batteries are charged and assuming stuff is fine between the batteries and the fridge is plain daft.

 

Regarding the temperature control knob inside the fridge, mine tends to rotate while the shaft stays still. I expect you have checked for this already though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
OldGoat Veteran II

OldGoatDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

I'm assuming that Shoreline fit the Danfoss BD35F compressor (I don't know of any other 12/24 makes). You could ring them

There's plenty of info on the Web - I just Googled it.

There's a controller on the web for some 50quid - but it's stateside - carriage is only £8 ish so still doable. £150 elsewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tony Brooks Veteran II

Tony BrooksDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

I'm assuming that Shoreline fit the Danfoss BD35F compressor (I don't know of any other 12/24 makes). You could ring them

There's plenty of info on the Web - I just Googled it.

There's a controller on the web for some 50quid - but it's stateside - carriage is only £8 ish so still doable. £150 elsewhere.

 

Shoreline started fitting another make of 12/24V compressor a few years ago, it sounded Italian. I think they use the same flash/beep codes as the Danfoss though.

 

It is no use measuring the voltage at the back of the fridge when it is not running, you could have a poor connection somewhere yet still get a reading of 12V plus. Try to do it when it is running but even then its not 100% definitive because the start up surge could still pull the voltage down when starting. However as the fridge is not even running or showing a fault code it is less likely to be a wiring defect like that.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dave_P Veteran

Dave_PDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the forum. I have nothing to add to the fridge problem except to say that if you've moved on board and the only thing that's wrong is the fridge then I'd recommend you fall to your knees and loudly praise the lord that you got off so lightly! Yes, a new 12v is about 500 pounds but that's a mere drop in the ocean compared to the ongoing costs of boat ownership. Also, used 12v fridges turn up on ebay etc for under 100 all the time.

 

As has been said on here many times, a boat is just a hole in the water into which you pour your money.

 

Finally, many on here have argued that a A++ rated 240 fridge is cheaper to run via an inverter than a dedicated 12v fridge. If you have 240v hookup then it might be a no-brainer before you start forking out large sums for parts/repairs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BruceinSanity Influencer

BruceinSanityDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the forum. I have nothing to add to the fridge problem except to say that if you've moved on board and the only thing that's wrong is the fridge then I'd recommend you fall to your knees and loudly praise the lord that you got off so lightly! Yes, a new 12v is about 500 pounds but that's a mere drop in the ocean compared to the ongoing costs of boat ownership. Also, used 12v fridges turn up on ebay etc for under 100 all the time.

 

As has been said on here many times, a boat is just a hole in the water into which you pour your money.

 

Finally, many on here have argued that a A++ rated 240 fridge is cheaper to run via an inverter than a dedicated 12v fridge. If you have 240v hookup then it might be a no-brainer before you start forking out large sums for parts/repairs.

This ^^^^

 

If you fit a 230V fridge and don't want to leave your main inverter on all the time whilst cruising, it's easy enough to buy a small coke can inverter and wire it in behind the fridge. After all, you've got a 12V supply there already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Flyboy Experienced

Flyboy

Posted
Posted

Isn't there a way to bypass the thermostat. I vaguely remember someone saying the wiring on back can be used to bypass stat in case it's not working. Fridge will then run continuously showing faulty stat.

Yes, that is correct. The thermostat is just a switch that turns on/off according to the set temperature. If you access it ,remove the wires & join them together the compressor will run continuously. Thermostats are a common failure on compressor fridges & freezers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mr Moggy Gongoozler

Mr Moggy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Dave_p for the welcome, it's not just the fridge there turned out to be a catalogue of problems with the boat that we are working our way through, and I will be using a 240 for the time being, again thank you all for your advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.