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Richard10002

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Everything posted by Richard10002

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  12. I second Envirograf as a heat resistant sealant... however, you need to leave it for a few days to cure AND before you first light the fire after using Envirograf, open all windows and doors, and get everyone, including the dog, out of the boat - until the smokey fumes given off by the sealant have stopped and cleared........ Ask me how I know this
  13. Vactan rust converter, 1 coat primer, 2 coats undercoat. I did my roof like this, then left it for about 8 months, before another coat of undercoat and 2 topcoats. All good 3 years later.
  14. Vetus use Kgf to describe their bow thrusters, whereas the OP is being offered a choice between a 5Kw and a 6Kw bow thruster. This thread tries to clear up some confusion.... kgf seems to need some m/s to compare directly with kw:
  15. Could you provide a photo of the big hole in the engine, both close up, and wider angle? Just so someone who may be able to help can see exactly where it is and what might have caused it. It would also help to provide a photo of the whole engine, perhaps from above, and from both sides. FYI the colour of an engine can be a guide to identifying it. Mine is a yellow Mitsubishi 4 cylinder, which suggests that it was marinised by Vetus. I used to have a green Montego 2000 4 cylinder, which suggested it was marinised by Volvo Penta, and so on.
  16. I wondered about welding, or glueing, a key on the inside, but my guess is that you are right.
  17. When you say, “blew up”, what, exactly, do you mean? In reality, if it “blew up”, the back end of your boat would be gone, and the engine would be the least of your worries. Dependent upon what has happened, there is a chance it could be fixed. I don’t know if a full rebuild costs a lot less than a new engine?
  18. If you could get these with a knob turn on one side, (the internal side), I think they would be ideal. I can only find them with a keyed lock on both sides
  19. I am wondering if the calorifier came fully assembled, or whether the PRV was a separately wrapped part, and not fitted. There is no doubt that it is fitted in the hot water supply line, whereas the Surecal instructions show it at the bottom of the tank. If it was mine, and subject to actually being able to see it, I might be tempted to remove the PRV and fit it where it looks like it should go, and reconnecting the hot supply without it. If not DIY oriented I would probably get an installer, (not the one who fitted it), recommended perhaps from here, and ask them to sort it out.
  20. I suppose the advice that you probably wont kill yourself with 12v stuff, but you could with 240v stuff, is valid. However, as most boats have a 240v system, as well as the 12V system, it's generally not a factor that most people take into account. Where possible, I use 12V stuff, mostly because my inverter draws 4A even when powering nothing, so I only turn it on when I need it, and hope not to forget to turn it off when I've finished using it. You can get inverters that draw less than 1A acquiescent current, which might be an overhead I might consider. In the scheme of thing, you will find that lots of things that you buy for home, and which you think run off 240v, actually come with an AC to DC converter, so they can be run off 12V with the appropriate adapter and connector. My boat is kitted out almost as well as my home, and I have 2 TVs, a soundbar, a router, car stereo head unit, laptops, phones, tablet, digital piano, toothbrush, that all came with 240 volt power supplies, but all of which run from the 12V system. The only things that I turn the inverter on for is an HP printer, and to charge the Dyson V6. People talk about the cost of a 12V fridge, which cost around £450 to £600, but you only buy them once in many years, and your boat will come with a fridge which will probably last you a long time. When I was looking for a new fridge a few years ago, I didn't see one that was small enough to fit my space and which ran off 240V, although I wasn't looking too hard for a 240V version. If I were you I would buy the boat that I liked. If it has a 240V system, all good, if it doesn't have one, you could live with the boat for a while and see how you get on with it. You will almost certainly want a shoreline facility for battery charging, which is a simple addition, (inlet socket, wire, Consumer unit, wire to charger, and/or wire to 240V socket. If you want 240V sockets around the boat, it's a bit more complicated because it needs wires around the boat, which ought to be hidden if possible. I would be surprised if you found many boats without a shoreline input, if only for battery charging.
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  24. Seconded, except that I'd say watch all of them and, if you only apply a few of his techniques you will have a reasonable finish.
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