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Removing propeller


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John's experience on the Thames may give you a bit of insight

I note the 3 hours?

Most setups should have enough clearance between shaft and rudder.

The ease of actually being able to separate a prop from the shaft underwater varies, but then its probably inversely proportional to the chances of loosing it!

I imagine the difficulty will be with the locking mechanism, if its a split pin/castelated nut, what are the chances of a new prop lining up even with good quality clearances?

I would also imagine water quality is a factor?

 

When I tried to do it, I gave up after 3 attempts, until I was in dry dock, as I could find no way of actually getting the old one off!

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Is it possible to remove and replace a Vetus propeller whilst still in the water.

Worth a go? Stupid idea? :unsure:

1) No 2) Yes

What will you do when you loose the shaft key/ nut/ split pin?

How will you line the nut up with the hole in the shaft or drill a new hole for the split pin?

Unless you use a puller of some sort, that works underwater, how will you hit* the old prop to knock it off the taper?

 

Accessing the prop while stood in the canal is not easy, because the counter stern gets in the way, you have to be up to your neck in water with your head against the stern of the boat.

Working down a weed hatch is full of complication , with risk of injury. You might also have to remove the rudder to get enough clearance to get the prop out.

Having said all that, I was told a tale years ago ( by a BW foreman) who claimed to have changed the prop on a 10,000ton ship in mid atlantic in WW2 , so anything's possible!

Do the sensible thing, go to a boatyard and pay for a slip,drydock or crane ,that way you can do it in an hour .

* Knocking the prop off requires 2 people . I holds a heavy weight against the prop boss on one side of the boat, while the other uses a drift and heavy hammer on the other side- trust me it works, no heat , no fancy puller but you can't do it in the water.

 

Bill

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Is it possible to remove and replace a Vetus propeller whilst still in the water.

Worth a go? Stupid idea? :unsure:

 

 

Not worth the effort.

 

Take the prop and tailshaft out backwards (replace the propshaft with a temporary bung) and do it on dry land. It is not complicated and can all be done from the back deck and down the weed hatch. You will usually need to drop the rudder out but that is not hard either. I have posted before on here in some detail as to how this is done, and on how to get the shaft out of the prop using a scaffold pole. A search of my posts should reveal all!!

 

N

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1) No 2) Yes

What will you do when you loose the shaft key/ nut/ split pin?

Make sure its on top! String through the hole/round the prop!

How will you line the nut up with the hole in the shaft or drill a new hole for the split pin?

Unless you use a puller of some sort, that works underwater, how will you hit* the old prop to knock it off the taper?

Good question!

Edited by RobinJ
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Not worth the effort.

 

Take the prop and tailshaft out backwards (replace the propshaft with a temporary bung) and do it on dry land. It is not complicated and can all be done from the back deck and down the weed hatch. You will usually need to drop the rudder out but that is not hard either. I have posted before on here in some detail as to how this is done, and on how to get the shaft out of the prop using a scaffold pole. A search of my posts should reveal all!!

 

N

Won't "dropping the rudder out" need about six foot of water? Not easily found in these parts. I suppose you could do it in a full lock, then again, you could just drain a short pound off to work in the relative dry. B)

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I dropped my rudder accidentally when replacing the top bearing really struggles to lift it back on the the bottom bearing luckily a passing bloke with big muscles helped me. Is there a staircase lock near you? drain the top lock at night and work quickly with a blowtorch to loosen and a big hammer.

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Its sometimes possible to bump them off in the water, by removing any flexible coupling from between g/box and prop-shaft, then grasp the shaft tightly and slide it back and forth bumping the prop boss against the sternpost collar, like a slide hammer. Take the nut off first of course.

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:o

 

Slacken the nut off but leave it on!!! That will save having to fetch the prop up from the bottom of the cut

 

Richard

Yes or a rope around a blade and up around the stern or up through the weedbox.

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Yes or a rope around a blade and up around the stern or up through the weedbox.

 

Leave the nut on. Much more chance of retaining the key. (as well as the prop).

 

 

In general, though, trying to swap propellers in the water is a bad idea.

 

Tim

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I imagine most of you will wondering why we want to take off the propeller, well should I say might need to take off the proppeller to straighten it out after colliding with the underwater retaining wall shelf. It must have done some damage - it almost stalled the engine!

 

The annoying part about it we've just had the boat of the water for re-blacking at cost of 300 sheets so rather not have to shell out again if at all possible.

 

Will know more when we take the weed hatch off and have good feel around.

Edited by bag 'o' bones
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I did it with our standard prop with a castellated nut and split pin, slackened nut then used a metal bar against prop boss the gave it a few macho wangs with a mooring hammer to knock it off the taper. Fortunately the shaft key was a snug fit so didn't fall out. Rope around boss tied mid rope length so one end came into the boat via weed batch and other end onto shore to retrieve prop. Replacement was a reversal using weed hatch rope end to pull prop back. Only prob I had was replacing split pin in freezing cold water, the pain was agonising and after waiting 10 mins or so for pain to subside left me with no feeling in my finger ends so struggled with something that needs some digital dexterity.

 

Definitely a summer job.

 

On the other hand maybe I had a good example, for a start when I previously fitted the prop I greased the shaft liberally.

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I imagine most of you will wondering why we want to take off the propeller, well should I say might need to take off the proppeller to straighten it out after colliding with the underwater retaining wall shelf. It must have done some damage - it almost stalled the engine!

 

The annoying part about it we've just had the boat of the water for re-blacking at cost of 300 sheets so rather not have to shell out again if at all possible.

 

Will know more when we take the weed hatch off and have good feel around.

That may be an insurance job, have a word with them first.

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Doesn't the Vetus use a strange ie. not splitpin locking system?

 

Not sure it's strange but doesn't have a split pin an castle nut.

 

Linky

 

Have a look at the photo.

 

How about if it's done in deeper water with diving equipment? Anyone done that?

Edited by Biggles
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Not sure it's strange but doesn't have a split pin an castle nut.

 

Linky

 

Have a look at the photo.

 

How about if it's done in deeper water with diving equipment? Anyone done that?

 

Tab washer, from what I can remember.

 

Bear in mind, if changing a Vetus propeller, that they use a different taper from most found on UK waterways (so you need another Vetus prop, essentially).

 

Tim

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Doesn't the Vetus use a strange ie. not splitpin locking system?

 

For that read none locking system. Graham (Riversdale) has lost at least 2 Vetus propellers on the hire boats after the locking tabs got knocked. He now as drilled and split pinned all the remaining boats that still have Vetus props / shafts. I made him see the light and he is now only fits Crowther props and shafts.

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  • 4 weeks later...

For that read none locking system. Graham (Riversdale) has lost at least 2 Vetus propellers on the hire boats after the locking tabs got knocked. He now as drilled and split pinned all the remaining boats that still have Vetus props / shafts. I made him see the light and he is now only fits Crowther props and shafts.

 

How on earth does anyone manage to knock a tab washer on the end of a prop shaft which is itself protected by the tailpiece? If you can knock that, you can knock a split pin too.

 

1038.jpg

 

I think there are enough Vetus units out there that we'd hear about this happening all the time if it really was an issue. Since it happened twice to the same bloke, perhaps Graham's weren't properly installed or checked when the boats came out the water.

Edited by blackrose
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Now that we have had a chance to check the propeller all seems to be well. One of the blades appears to have suffered a bit of a ding but certainly nothing that effects power or can be felt through the tiller. Thanks for all your replies. :cheers:

 

Have a look at your propshaft inside the engine room with the boat running in gear at idling (take care around moving parts). Does it appear to be wobbling or out of alignment any more than usual?

 

The problem with dinging a prop blade is that it may cause an imbalance, which may result in premature wear of the stern gland or shaft.

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