Biggles

No it definitely only clocks up with the alternator feed. It's a Vetus tacho if that helps. TBH I was surprised it didn't clock up with just power on. Kevin

Hello All It was a schoolboy error not to check the wire first. Me bad. The hour meter is linked to the running not the ignition so it must be excited by the alternator output. Yes I have ensured it's tightly on the spade again and I have secured the wire so it's not pulling down on the terminal. It's taken 13 years to fall off or 2600 hours. Thanks everyone for all comments. Kevin

Hello Tony. Spot on. The wire had completely come off. I connected it and straight away it works. Thanks very much. Kevin

My rev counter and hour meter have stopped working. It's a vetus instrument. I'm told it gets its feed from the alternator. The alternator is outputting according to the red warning light. How do I check to establish if its the alternator feed or the rev counter gone duff. Thanks

Thanks for the suggestions. This is all a work in progress and I'm definitely learning from others.

I don't have room. Also I'm not sure of the PTO speed.

I've checked the PTO output and it is a staggering 50hp max

This is why I always return to this group for sound advice and explanation. As the alternator is a permanent magnet type I can't turn off the load electrically to initiate a soft start. A simple plan? Never when it comes to boats 😀

Hello. Thanks for the reply. I've no idea about the power take off. But I'll endeavour to find out. BTW I'm wanting to drive a 12v 400amp alternator not a 240v

Interesting. Not what I want but none the less probably worth chatting to them.

Hello I have a DT44 engine in my boat and it has a provision for a hydraulic pump to be fitted. I am considering this to power a 12v permanent magnet alternator which can produce about 400 amps. The alternator is quite large so fitting it to the engine is not going to be straightforward, and I don't think there would be enough belt grip on the 7v belt I currently have anyway. So my thoughts are to use a hydraulic drive for this alternato which can then be placed anywhere within reason that I chose. The alternator ideally wants to run at about 1800 rpm when the engine is at cruise speed. I'm going to assume there is provision to alter the speed of any hydraulic motor. This is just a feasibility project ATM. Thoughts please

That should be pretty easy then. Getting the old one off is the hard part.

I did. It took about 4 hours through the weed hatch. Make sure all tools used are tied onto something. And be ready to collect anything that can fall off. Because it will! I changed again on dry land and it took about an hour.

I'm not sure if this can be opened, but I have it working in Tinkercad, Buttons only no MIDI yet https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jnJGwYjxFld-4-x-5-matrix-pedalboard-representation/editel?returnTo=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tinkercad.com%2Fdashboard I should have said the chip set supports MIDI USB

Hello I know this is a place of much knowledge and interest. I'm trying to make a 13 note base pedalboard. I have the doner pedals, I have the Arduino board, I have a reasonable amount of code suggestions, some are working (not the MIDI part) on Tinkercad. I have created a 4 X 5 matrix sketch using 113 buttons and this works. I need to progress to getting MIDI output but this is where my knowledge started to fall down. Tinkercad doesn't have MIDI libraries nor a facility to add a Pro Micro, although I can use Leonardo as it has the same chip set. If this makes any sense to anyone hopefully I can learn something from you. I'm loving it so far, but is now becoming frustrating. BIggles

I've had a troll around the net and everywhere that lists them are out of stock. Anyone any suggestions please. Biggles

No. Did away with the original skin tank and routed the plumbing to the bigger external tank.

Yes I did for No Problem. It was an external serpentine skin tank as there wasn't room to put more inside. Worked well. If it's only temporary you need it you could get a plate heat exchanger £40 ISH and cool it with raw water via a temporary pump. Not elegant but would work.

Boating in France is dead simple. Join DBA for lots of help and advice and stacks of reference material. I'm 18m never had a problem but if you can live on 15m you'll definitely have no issues. I don't think you need ICC or CEVNI at that length. Towns are changing now but I seldom use town mooring or indeed any paid mooring when out cruising. I now have a permanent 365 mooring with them VNF and it's quite reasonable. The DBA is by far the best way to get first hand knowledge. It's not very expensive.

Thanks Tony I will investigate there. I too have also in the past used wet and dry to sand them down. Just getting lazy nowadays

Hello I am looking for some brushes for my 240v Alternator. The physical size is 9.98mm x 4.88mm the depth of the holder from base to flush at the top is 26.5mm but I have no idea of the original length of the brush. I need 1 pair only

Good. Because your type of post is just another Twit wasting bandwidth with a pointless response. FYI my rusting pile of ....was last valued at 200k on a PX . I just have this small problem area. Yes thats right. If It went all the way through to the top there would be no problem. Its wheel steering not tiller.

The water is getting past the seals and coming up the rudder stock then going into this void. I hear what you say but I am able to make a form around the hole at the top and create a "lid" so to speat which can be sealed.

I'm fully aware of the situation, what I need is a mitigation solution or discussion, not a keyboard warrior filling their day by posting pointless and useless replies. DUH!

I want to fill a void space on my boat. Its about the size of a large shoe box. The finish when set must be waterproof i.e. not permiable. I have considered liquid resin and silicone used for mould making. Both are exothermic reactions and cause me concern. I have also considered a grout or waterproof cement slurry, and finally I've considered some form of closed cell expanding foam. I've attached a picture of the void. It's impossible to get into to get much more of the rust flaking off as the access is only about the size of a tin of beans. This void is between the 2 fuel tanks with the rudder stock tube running through it. It's not leaking water in but does fill when I go hard astern so I conclude it's coming out of the rudder pole bearings which runs inside the round rudder tube in the photo. But that's another issue. The requirement now is to stop water entering this void and thus prevent further degradation as I don't want the end up with a perforated fuel tank. Any ideas welcome. Yes I know I need to stop the water ingress in the first place but that's going to be something I'll deal with next time I'm out of the water. Kevin