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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

RobinJ

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  • Content Count

    1993
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  • Last visited

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  • Occupation
    electronic engineer
  • Boat Name
    clover
  • Boat Location
    bridgewater

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  1. Is it one of the red ones! Where does the main cable from the alternator go, isolator or direct to battery? The red isolators can wear, you can usually get a response by pushing the key in. As they wear they tend to arc and make matters worse! If alternator wired direct to battery, isolator would not make any difference - this presumably also means ignition doesn't go though isolator either?
  2. As with most split charge relay systems, aternator direct to starter! I think it was more like the domestic's were flat and when the relay kicked in, more current flowed from starter to domestic than the cable could handle! I had not considered the advantages/disadvantages on connecting the alternator direct to the domestic!
  3. When fitting split charge relays, people always look at what the alternator is capable of delivering, they forget that when you connect 110A batteries together, under some circumstances you can get a lot more current (even if only for a short time), hence the bigger the better! I found this out when I started the engine one morning and fried the wiring on the split charge relay (boat was like that when I bought it), if I hadn't fried the wiring, I would have fried the relay, now I have a bigger relay and the right wiring!
  4. I agree, mostly to simplify things, you round sizes up, so you end up with about 3 sizes overall!
  5. Do have some loom info for 1.5, based on AMC setup with ISS instruments? I found it easier to start from scratch and calculate lengths, sizes and connections, based on location, and power required, especially as I was fitting different oil pressure and alternator etc,!
  6. Engine not too well since last year, stalling in neutral when warm? 1) Fuel problem, so have it polished! Tank nice and clean no sign of water, no sign of bug? 2) Nice clean fuel, next change the filters! How do you get this grippy thing to remove the filter when there is a skin tank on one side and engine bearers on the other. You unbolt the filter housing, disconnect the pipes and stick the whole thing in a vice, great, piece of cake, fit new filter, bolt it all back up! Move on to the canister, oh dear, how do I get these seals off without standing on my head in the bilge. You unbolt the whole filter housing, disconnect the pipes, turn it upside down, so you can see what your doing, great, piece of cake, fit new filter, bolt it all back up! Now, I'm sure it shouldn't be that hard to prime the system? It fires up nicely, but why does it rev like that without the throttle? At least the engine stop works! Back to basics, follow them pipes, something's not right? Tank - water separator - lift pump - fuel filter - injector pump, aha! Why is the inlet to the filter coming from the bit where the throttle goes? Yep, them fuel pipes are sneaky beggars, turn your back for a second and them swap em selves over! 3) Don't need to have injector pump checked. 4) Don't need to see if valves are sticking. 5) Need to change filters more frequently. 6) Need to paint inlut and outlet pipes different colours!
  7. Its not the efficiency I was concerned about, but the total air flow, since what gets sucked in, ends up pushed through the exhaust, whether involved in combustion or not! I am never clear whether more air is sucked in or less (due to the opening and closing of the valves which flushes the exhaust?)
  8. Bearing in mind it could get up to 3000 rpm, then it would be double, however, despite it being water cooled, some circulation is also needed, and convection around the engine compartment will help to keep batteries, gearbox and other items cool! Otherwise, you have a big radiator in a small room with the door shut! 1.5l per rev., at 3000 rpm is 750l per second, I would then double that and try and make sure it comes in the clean side (away form the exhaust) and goes out the other!
  9. It is worth trying this, as we found a problem with a box that had been left standing and something had been depositied on the shaft from the oil (this case ATF) and was jamming the dogs! (took about 3 or 4 rinses to get rid of the black deposits) Also when was the oil last changed or level checked, it could be getting low or thick and taking time to work in cold weather?
  10. Even checking the water level can be misleading if the engine has stood for a while, when the engine last cooled down, the vacuum could have sucked air in through a small leak, creating an air lock in the cooling system. This is even more of a problem with large changes in temperature, or if there is any chance the coolant could have frozen and put strain on hoses etc. Run the engine with the cap off, to see whether it is circulating or the level goes down after starting! Check the hoses, thermostat housing, anything quite high up on the engine (calorifier connections) which could result in air getting in!
  11. There are a number of areas where you can get a leak, bottom up! Sometimes sump bolts can work loose and oil seep from the sump rim, same applies to sump plug or pump adaptor if fitted? An old engine can have wear on the crankshaft oil seal, if happening, generally drips from the bellhousing? It may be worth checking the timing chain cover too, to see if that gasket is leaking or oil is seeping from behind the pulley? The next point up is the fuel pump and tappet covers, sometimes oil seeps out where these are fitted, also check breather pipe if fitted? If fitted with an oil cooler, any of the pipe joints can leak? We are now if the area of leaks only when running! Sometimes BMC's spray oil from the air intake, because of blowback or blocked breather? Rocker cover and oil filler cap not sealed properly can result in oil seaping out?
  12. Looks suspiciously more rusty than diesel buggy! Hopefully it is just stuff from the bottom of the tnak that has got sucked up. But would take the opportunity to clean up the fuel and tank so as not to waste those nice new filters!
  13. When water gets into wood it tends to turn it black, if its not waterlogged, merely damp, then it will end up looking grey! (I think this is something to do with stuff in the wood - tannin like coffee? - which is oxidised?) Anyway, if its actually white, it might just be where the varnish has lifted? Polyurethane varnishes tend to do this especially, but they are more difficult to clean off and patch up!
  14. Would not the simplest thing to do - be wire it up straight to the domestic batteries, with a separate warning light if required, so its own regulator does the job?
  15. OK, I didn't mean actually 'on' the fire, but on top of the fire as in 'where the kettle goes'. Although come to think of it, it hasn't boiled! I need to light it too
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