Advice on sorting leaks

[Silent Flight]

So as I’ve started to get my boat closer to how I want it, the increased wet weather has highlighted a whole new headache. I’m getting leaks from a lot of the windows, a porthole, a Houdini hatch, mushroom vents and also the flue for the log burner. I knew I had a project taking on the boat and is something I would of eventually and maybe got new thermal break windows etc, but I’m really not in the best position to be doing that right now.
 

I will be sorting it when it’s dry enough, and I’m sure lots of other boaters have had issues like this before. I’ve tried to patch up what I can for now.
 

But any advice on how to fix this when it’s less wet would be appreciated. I understand I would have to remove and reseat using sikaflex for the windows. I’m not sure how to safely remove and then prep the window and recondition the frame itself and the space it’s going back into. Houdini hatch and flue are something I’m particularly clueless about. TIA
 

 

[bizzard]

49 minutes ago, Silent Flight said:

So as I’ve started to get my boat closer to how I want it, the increased wet weather has highlighted a whole new headache. I’m getting leaks from a lot of the windows, a porthole, a Houdini hatch, mushroom vents and also the flue for the log burner. I knew I had a project taking on the boat and is something I would of eventually and maybe got new thermal break windows etc, but I’m really not in the best position to be doing that right now.
 

I will be sorting it when it’s dry enough, and I’m sure lots of other boaters have had issues like this before. I’ve tried to patch up what I can for now.
 

But any advice on how to fix this when it’s less wet would be appreciated. I understand I would have to remove and reseat using sikaflex for the windows. I’m not sure how to safely remove and then prep the window and recondition the frame itself and the space it’s going back into. Houdini hatch and flue are something I’m particularly clueless about. TIA
 

 

For a start, buckets,  saucepans or washing up bowls over the mushroom vents until weather improve.

[blackrose]

5 hours ago, Silent Flight said:

I knew I had a project taking on the boat and is something I would of eventually and maybe got new thermal break windows etc, but I’m really not in the best position to be doing that right now.

 

I don't mean to be a grammar nazi but it's always "would have" or it's contraction "would've", never "would of" and you need to complete that sentence with a verb in a past tense, for example "it's something I would have done or got around to eventually."

 

 

 

As for your leaks, if you're living onboard you really need to do something as soon as possible so I'd suggest on the next dry day going around the frames, etc, with some Capt Tolly's Creeping Crack Cure (google it). If that doesn't work then try a little clear silicone externally as a temporary fix. 

 

Once spring and summer arrive and you have some sustained dry weather then carefully take the windows and hatch out and prep/seal them properly. Just remove & reseal one at a time, don't rip them all out and leave yourself in a vulnerable situation when you find it's not going to plan and then it starts raining.

 

The leaking flue can be resealed by taking the deck/roof collar off getting rid of the rust underneath and resealing with some Plumba Flue or any high temp silicone. If you have an unorthodox arrangement where you don't have a roof collar and maybe someone has fitted your chimney inside a section of pipe welded into the roof for example,  you can also try to reseal it from the outside, but you could try a storm collar fitted onto the chimney - if you can find one of the correct diameter.

You probably need to post some pictures to get some proper advice.

Edited February 24 by blackrose

[Bee]

I've always had more success using double sided closed cell foam for windows and suchlike as long as you can get decent fixings to pull the frame down nice and flat and reasonably tight. Any sort of goo will make a right old mess and you'll be using gallons of paraffin/white spirit/fairy liquid to clean everything afterwards.

 

[Tony Brooks]

I would suggest that you will find a lot of rust under each leak point, so that will need removing, possibly treating, and then using a paint system before refitting the items. As silicon can make it difficult for future paint films to adhere, I would avoid using any silicon at present.

 

I also feel closed cell foam strip tends to make a better seal than any form of mastic. Be a bit way of modern sealer adhesives because although they may seal very well for now, if they eventually leak again then it can be very difficult to get the window frames out without bending and damaging them.

 

Are you sure that you have leaks between the glass and frame? That sort of leak is not as common as leaks between frame and cabin side.  Are the drain holes that usually run between the inside channel of the frame, under the glass and vents to the outside to allow condensation on the inside of the glass to drain away?

[Kendorr]

16 minutes ago, Bee said:

double sided closed cell foam for windows

I've always used neoprene foam, 6 or 8 mm thick, depending on how out of shape the metal is. Used this on my new build and not had a single leak in 6 years, started using in when re-sealing the windows on my current project, I buy from Ebay, just type 'neoprene foam' in the search.

[Mike Tee]

Another vote for Captain Tolly’s - and don’t forget to put some on each of the screws that hold the various apertures to the roof. With hot weather and brass screws going into steel they are an obvious possible problem area.

[Peugeot 106]

I’m not a big fan of Sikaflex these days. As others have said you can end up breaking/bending fittings to get them off again. It’s a sod  to get off.  Butyl sealant tapes used by glaziers are useful and can be bought in different width and thicknesses. They are also less messy. Similar to neoprene foam tapes

 

captain trolley creeping crack cure can, if the application is correct,  work like magic but only in hairline cracks

 

[Mad Harold]

38 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

Another vote for Captain Tolly’s - and don’t forget to put some on each of the screws that hold the various apertures to the roof. With hot weather and brass screws going into steel they are an obvious possible problem area.

Have used Tolley's on leaking windows both frame to cabin and glass to frame.It didn't work, it's too thin for serious leaks, and only works on minor leaks.

[Peugeot 106]

6 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:

Have used Tolley's on leaking windows both frame to cabin and glass to frame.It didn't work, it's too thin for serious leaks, and only works on minor leaks.

It works by capillary action so will only work on hairline cracks but is very effective for these

[Mad Harold]

8 hours ago, Silent Flight said:

So as I’ve started to get my boat closer to how I want it, the increased wet weather has highlighted a whole new headache. I’m getting leaks from a lot of the windows, a porthole, a Houdini hatch, mushroom vents and also the flue for the log burner. I knew I had a project taking on the boat and is something I would of eventually and maybe got new thermal break windows etc, but I’m really not in the best position to be doing that right now.
 

I will be sorting it when it’s dry enough, and I’m sure lots of other boaters have had issues like this before. I’ve tried to patch up what I can for now.
 

But any advice on how to fix this when it’s less wet would be appreciated. I understand I would have to remove and reseat using sikaflex for the windows. I’m not sure how to safely remove and then prep the window and recondition the frame itself and the space it’s going back into. Houdini hatch and flue are something I’m particularly clueless about. TIA
 

 

Sikaflex is pretty much permanant and really does stick! I wouldnt use it to seal windows or window framed as it will be difficult to remove window frames or glass without either distorting the frame or breaking the glass.

Domestic silicone is no good in a marine environment.It may well seal for a couple of showers, but to re-seal every last trace of it must be removed or nothing will stick to it.

The way to do it properly is to remove frame and glass and use new seals for the glass and non setting mastic for the frame.

As a temporary fix, I have used butyl gutter sealant with some success.

[Tracy D'arth]

First off, are you certain that they are all leaks and not condensation? 

If you are living on in winter you will have condensation on every window frame and roof opening every day.

Houdinies are terrible for it, the ally frames will run with water all the time in winter.

Get into the habit of wiping every frame every hour and see what happens.

It is rare for the glass to frame seals to leak much.

[blackrose]

4 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

As silicon can make it difficult for future paint films to adhere, I would avoid using any silicon at present.

 

I assumed any silicone around the frames would be mechanically removed along with the rust under the frames when the OP took the windows out, which is why I suggested using a little. What advice would you give to the OP to seal his windows in the short term if not silicone? 

[Tony Brooks]

3 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

I assumed any silicone around the frames would be mechanically removed along with the rust under the frames when the OP took the windows out, which is why I suggested using a little. What advice would you give to the OP to seal his windows in the short term if not silicone? 

 

Apart from Cpt. Tolley's I would suggest any of the non-silicon weatherproof sealers. From what I have seen mechanical removal of silicon can (not will) spread the silicon around.

 

Some spirit wipe degreasers claim to remove silicon residues, but again there is always the danger of spreading it around if you don't keep turning the cloth and renewing it frequently enough.

Edited February 24 by Tony Brooks

[blackrose]

3 hours ago, Mad Harold said:

Domestic silicone is no good in a marine environment.It may well seal for a couple of showers, but to re-seal every last trace of it must be removed or nothing will stick to it.

The way to do it properly is to remove frame and glass and use new seals for the glass and non setting mastic for the frame.

As a temporary fix, I have used butyl gutter sealant with some success.

 

I've used domestic silicone successfully to externally seal a window temporarily and it lasted all winter until I could do the job properly. Butyl gutter sealant will also require complete removal prior to a permanent fix. 

1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Apart from Cpt. Tolley's I would suggest any of the non-silicon weatherproof sealers. From what I have seen mechanical removal of silicon can (not will) spread the silicon around.

 

It depends how you're mechanically removing it I suppose. If you do a half arsed job with your prep then you'll leave silicone on the surface but that probably applies to any temporary sealant.

[Tony Brooks]

3 minutes ago, blackrose said:

t depends how you're mechanically removing it I suppose. If you do a half arsed job with your prep then you'll leave silicone on the surface but that probably applies to any temporary sealant.

 

True, but not all sealants actively repel paint, even if present in minute quantities.

[Mad Harold]

4 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

I've used domestic silicone successfully to externally seal a window temporarily and it lasted all winter until I could do the job properly. Butyl gutter sealant will also require complete removal prior to a permanent fix. 

 

 

I find silicone a sod to remove completely.

Butyl comes off easily with white spirit after scraping the thickness down.

[blackrose]

44 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:

I find silicone a sod to remove completely.

Butyl comes off easily with white spirit after scraping the thickness down.

 

I assumed the OP would be removing rust from under the window frame with a wire wheel attachment on a drill, etc. In which case it's fairly easy to get the silicone off. I've never had a problem removing it mechanically, but everyone's free to use whatever they want. If butyl works better fine.

[Deep]

Yet another vote for Capt Tolly's Creeping Crack Cure, it sorted two leaking windows on our boat earlier this year. I used a hypodermic syringe to apply.

[john.k]

silicone simply shrivels up when wiped with a petrol soaked rag,and pulls away in long rubbery strings................sicaflex /poly u is the hard stuff to get off ,and its often used because it can be painted 

[Silent Flight]

Apologies thought I replied to this
 

Im sure it’s not condensation firstly, as I’m used to the amount of water I wipe away using high absorption cloths (spunji) 

 

Plus I have two portholes, two Houdini’s, mulitiple windows so can some are leaking compared to others.

 

I think window wise they are leaking (all patched up for now) from the edge of the frames to the boat. Not from the glass to window frame.

 

So sikaflex no, Cpt tolleys yes! Cool 

Cannot get the flue to stop dripping when it’s lashing it down, bit concerning. Buy a boat they said, it will be great they said 😅

 

Will get some pics up when can. Ideally I don’t have to remove windows and hatches just yet, and can sort the flue out without it being a big job. Appreciate the comments all 

[agg221]

As a temporary fix I have used this with great success:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bostik-flashband-primer-grey-3-75m-x-75mm/20535

 

It is available in different widths.

 

I have stuck it to completely span from the paintwork to the glass, covering leaking frames completely, on bullseyes and portholes. It sticks extremely well so long as the surface is dry when you do it, and can be agglomerated from one piece to the next. It lasts pretty much as long as you need. Messy to remove, but can be scraped off with a plastic scraper and then the remainder wiped off with white spirit.

Alec

[Ronaldo47]

Gaffa tape can provide an effective quick fix in emergencies. Preferably degrease with meths first. 

[Silent Flight]

Update for anyone interested…

 

Tackled the chimney leak by taking the flue and cast collar out completely.
Then getting multiple layers of mushed up cracked cement and crappy sealant off, packed under the collar/roof over years of botching by previous owners. Wire brushed both back to shiny metal. Few layers of red oxide and grey primer.

Reseated it by and the fixings and using some very squidgy grey putty type stuff, that came on roll I picked up talking to a boat building yard came across on my travels that they use in same scenario. Can’t remember what it was called.

Then around that a bit of silicone fireproof sealant. Lastly around the edge of the collar a load of sikaflex. Waiting a week to apply paint.
Inside used fireproof rope near the roof and fireproof cement around the top off the stove joining the flue. Also took the opportunity to spin my stove 90 degrees so I can see the flickering flames in my new saloon refit. Gaming plus flames are helping on the windy rainy nights!

 

Mulling over the mushroom vents, I’m tempted by replacing them as most are cross threaded on a jaunty angle and would like to place 12v fans and decent mesh for stopping bugs at the same time. Thinking chrome instead of brass. But I was wondering if there are any benefits of having chrome instead? Would they tarnish far less?? Can’t find much info about it. Would like to join the shiny boat brigade without having to polish my boat all the time😅
 

Also came across this article and found it interesting, has anyone done anything similar to narrowboats?

 

https://www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/resealing-mushroom-vents-boat-watertight-69796

 

Seems logical and IMO looks neat! Opinions welcome 🙏 
 

 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

Chrome plated brass will stay shiny longer term. Depends on the quality of the chrome plating. The ones on boats you see around seem OK. I just painted my brass mushroom vents. Spider proof resistant mesh inside will reduce the amount of ventilation they can provide, if that is a concern to you. A BSS advisory these days, rather than a fail. I recall they derated the ventilated area by 50% for mesh. All boats have spiders. Installing spiders is part of the pre-sale inspection for new boats.