Mike Tee

I don't think it is that they don't see the point, I think they don't give a shit.

Not so much about the volokies but more about the ones waving paint brushes, all done up in volunteer clothing and life jackets - they were painting the bottom lock by whilton marina the other day when we came through. When I say painting, if it bore a resemblance to either black or white, it was being painted. By about six volunteers - both sides of the lock and both ends AT THE SAME TIME!. That's fine, but it was impossible to go over the lock gates, so could only be worked from the side you happened to be on. Maybe four painting and two assisting passage would have been sensible. My wife pointed that out to the full time C&RT employee in charge - he said he would mention it to his line manager next time he saw them. We wear oldish gear when boating, so won't be putting in a claim for ruined clothing, although I do have quite a lot of white paint on newish ropes from a bollard that was within 30 yards of the lock, with no wet paint signs.

They are rare, but I have seen trads with engine room, and a permanent double in place of the cabin replica. Just wasn’t one around when I was looking, as I would have liked a looksee as I think I would prefer that.

Most trads with an engine room (for easy maintenance access) will also have a Boatmans cabin - this is not always seen as a plus as the setup, particularly the bed, does not suit everyone . Something else to throw in the mix!!

Any videos in the pipeline for those of us who couldn't go? I've seen two or three very short ones but normally there are some long ones posted.

Ah, so a Frenchmans is not the same as a Fishermans. The latter does not have an opposite coil, just a slight twist in the rope to compensate with each coil. Ideal when tidying up after or leaving mooring. Just ignore what I said before................... or after.................. or in the middle!!

I learnt it (I assume we are talking about the same thing!) as a fishermans twist - a slight twist of your wrist as you lay the coil into the other hand. Try and do it against the 'lay' of the rope and it will fail dismally.

I think I'd find that uncomfortable standing in the rear hatch area and having to reach back to the tiller. Mine overlaps by only a few inches, but seems to make all the difference comfort wise - in fact I reckon all the boats I've owned were set up that way.

1 m This is one thing I also like to know when looking at a possible purchase - or to be more precise, the height of the tiller arm, which is to some extent dependent on this measurement. Too high, and it can become really uncomfortable after a long day steering.

You don't need to ask - if the seller says he won't allow the boat to be inspected out of water by a surveyor, walk away. (You will of course have to pay for it to be taken out of water plus the cost of a surveyor - in all around £1000.)

If the steel in question started out at 6mm and the surveyor said it is still 6mm, he should come back and explain where the rust came from. I'd like to see that explanation!

One of the warnings following leptospirosis is you must not under any circumstances indulge in any domestic chores - this is dangerous for both you and anybody else on the premises. No washing up, hoovering, cooking, basically anything. You may quote me if it helps. Intake of lots of fluids highly recommended.

Tell the owner - if somebody noticed something of a similar nature on your boat, wouldn't you want to be told? If he tells you to xxxx off and mind your own business, who's the idiot?

gaffer tape and a sheet of plastic, what can go wrong?

Don't you just love a public last minute challenge!

Ok, thanks

If I go the 'sand' route, apart from the expected mess in trying to get it in, obviously leave the bottom pipe connection covered (to keep the sand in), but should the top pipe hole be sealed or left to breath? Or just leave it empty with both holes open, as suggested, and stop bothering?

There are only 3 rads on the circuit - kitchen, bedroom and engine room (back cabin has multi fuel stove). Engine room is not required, we prefer the bedroom cold(ish) and the kitchen, apart from residual heat from cooking, is only 6 feet from the diesel stove. I know the rads can be turned off, but the main reason is so I do not have to have the c/h pump running the whole time the stove is lit. Haven't been through a winter on this boat yet, but previous experience with diesel stove is that leaving it running 24/7 on the lowest setting during really cold weather keeps the boat at a really comfortable level and I don't want the pump on all the time.. More expensive than solid fuel, but my asthma prefers it! eta - thanks for the suggestions early Sunday morning brain fart - for 'kitchen' read 'bathroom' (which is also fairly close to the stove)

I have a Lockgate Hestia diesel stove with back boiler serving radiators and would like to just run the stove on its own. I’m aware of the dangers of running one ‘dry’ (explosion!). Any suggestions how to do this permanently and safely? Removing stove and installing a multi fuel stove is not an option!

Small label and use a stapler ..........................

At least with a timer it wouldn't cycle plus you wouldn't forget it and end up with flat batteries on a particularly warm day!

Not true - my previous boat was about 2’8” draught and the base had been blacked before my ownership, and during it (at Debdale). It was a well used boat on a variety of waterways and each time it came out of the water (for whatever reason) I checked the baseplate - it showed absolutely minimal damage to the blacking.

Quite right, thats my memory playing tricks!

have a look at 'Craftmaster' website - they sell Owatrol and maybe there is a comment on its uses