Mike Tee

I think I'd find that uncomfortable standing in the rear hatch area and having to reach back to the tiller. Mine overlaps by only a few inches, but seems to make all the difference comfort wise - in fact I reckon all the boats I've owned were set up that way.

1 m This is one thing I also like to know when looking at a possible purchase - or to be more precise, the height of the tiller arm, which is to some extent dependent on this measurement. Too high, and it can become really uncomfortable after a long day steering.

You don't need to ask - if the seller says he won't allow the boat to be inspected out of water by a surveyor, walk away. (You will of course have to pay for it to be taken out of water plus the cost of a surveyor - in all around £1000.)

If the steel in question started out at 6mm and the surveyor said it is still 6mm, he should come back and explain where the rust came from. I'd like to see that explanation!

One of the warnings following leptospirosis is you must not under any circumstances indulge in any domestic chores - this is dangerous for both you and anybody else on the premises. No washing up, hoovering, cooking, basically anything. You may quote me if it helps. Intake of lots of fluids highly recommended.

Tell the owner - if somebody noticed something of a similar nature on your boat, wouldn't you want to be told? If he tells you to xxxx off and mind your own business, who's the idiot?

gaffer tape and a sheet of plastic, what can go wrong?

Don't you just love a public last minute challenge!

Ok, thanks

If I go the 'sand' route, apart from the expected mess in trying to get it in, obviously leave the bottom pipe connection covered (to keep the sand in), but should the top pipe hole be sealed or left to breath? Or just leave it empty with both holes open, as suggested, and stop bothering?

There are only 3 rads on the circuit - kitchen, bedroom and engine room (back cabin has multi fuel stove). Engine room is not required, we prefer the bedroom cold(ish) and the kitchen, apart from residual heat from cooking, is only 6 feet from the diesel stove. I know the rads can be turned off, but the main reason is so I do not have to have the c/h pump running the whole time the stove is lit. Haven't been through a winter on this boat yet, but previous experience with diesel stove is that leaving it running 24/7 on the lowest setting during really cold weather keeps the boat at a really comfortable level and I don't want the pump on all the time.. More expensive than solid fuel, but my asthma prefers it! eta - thanks for the suggestions early Sunday morning brain fart - for 'kitchen' read 'bathroom' (which is also fairly close to the stove)

I have a Lockgate Hestia diesel stove with back boiler serving radiators and would like to just run the stove on its own. I’m aware of the dangers of running one ‘dry’ (explosion!). Any suggestions how to do this permanently and safely? Removing stove and installing a multi fuel stove is not an option!

Small label and use a stapler ..........................

At least with a timer it wouldn't cycle plus you wouldn't forget it and end up with flat batteries on a particularly warm day!