"Medium" length stern button

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

[IanD]

3 hours ago, Tonka said:

Can I pick your brains and ask what is the best mousetrap.  I am plagued with them at the moment

Figurative mousetraps, not literal ones. If it's any use to you on a boat I can tell you the best way to sample or generate a complex 100GHz signal... 😉

 

P.S. The data you're reading has very probably gone through one of our optical transcievers...

Edited September 18, 2023 by IanD

[LadyG]

15 hours ago, Tonka said:

Can I pick your brains and ask what is the best mousetrap.  I am plagued with them at the moment

I have two plastic mousetraps, they were £7, and in one box, Rentokill, I think.

They don't need bait. I listen for location, then put them in a likely run, ie on floor along wall. They are lethal.

I got two mice yesterday, within thirty minutes, and none today.

[bizzard]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

I have two plastic mousetraps, they were £7, and in one box, Rentokill, I think.

They don't need bait. I listen for location, then put them in a likely run, ie on floor along wall. They are lethal.

I got two mice yesterday, within thirty minutes, and none today.

I have a humane rocking type. A little bit of peanut butter as bait. When it catches one you hear it rocking. Then outside and let it go free.

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

7 minutes ago, bizzard said:

I have a humane rocking type. A little bit of peanut butter as bait. When it catches one you hear it rocking. Then outside and let it go free.

“It’s so efficient I’ve caught the same mouse 8 times, mind you he has put some weight on with all that Peanut butter” 🐭🐭

[Tonka]

1 minute ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

“It’s so efficient I’ve caught the same mouse 8 times, mind you he has put some weight on with all that Peanut butter” 🐭🐭

i think we have done that. We dropped the mouse up by the gate, a good 700 ft and 2 fields away. We are sure that we trapped it again 2 days later.

 

14 hours ago, IanD said:

Figurative mousetraps, not literal ones. If it's any use to you on a boat I can tell you the best way to sample or generate a complex 100GHz signal... 😉

 

P.S. The data you're reading has very probably gone through one of our optical transcievers...

and there is your problem. You had to edit the original post

[MtB]

17 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

“It’s so efficient I’ve caught the same mouse 8 times, mind you he has put some weight on with all that Peanut butter” 🐭🐭

 

Indeed, and the mouse perhaps learned there is no reason not to go in and eat the bait, as it has noticed it gets set free again after being caught.

 

 

[IanD]

17 minutes ago, Tonka said:

i think we have done that. We dropped the mouse up by the gate, a good 700 ft and 2 fields away. We are sure that we trapped it again 2 days later.

 

and there is your problem. You had to edit the original post

Not sure quite what point your last missive is trying to make... 😉

[ditchcrawler]

Live traps

Live traps are popular amongst those, who don’t like the idea of killing an animal. They are seen as a catch and release solution usually using a mechanism in which to trap them securely until you are in a position to relocate them.  

With a live trap you need to be able to check these traps regularly and I mean at least every 12-24 hours, otherwise you will cause distress to the rodent.

Once you know an animal is confined in a trap their welfare is governed by the Animal Welfare Act 2006. The person setting the trap has responsibility for their welfare and it is an offence to cause, or fail to prevent, unnecessary suffering to the animal.

One side effect of being left too long in the trap is that they can start to develop hypothermia, due to the breath of the rodent creating moisture in the trap, which wets the fur and makes them extremely cold.

Releasing them can also become an issue because:

• It is illegal to release them onto a neighbours property
• Releasing them less than 100metres away will provide short-lived respite as they will likely find their way back
• Rodents are neophobic, which means that they have a deep fear of new things. Therefore, those who are released back into the wilderness have a very low chance of survival as they are likely to starve, become dehydrated or be eaten by predators due to the unfamiliarity.

[IanD]

4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Live traps are popular amongst those, who don’t like the idea of killing an animal. They are seen as a catch and release solution usually using a mechanism in which to trap them securely until you are in a position to relocate them.  

With a live trap you need to be able to check these traps regularly and I mean at least every 12-24 hours, otherwise you will cause distress to the rodent.

Once you know an animal is confined in a trap their welfare is governed by the Animal Welfare Act 2006. The person setting the trap has responsibility for their welfare and it is an offence to cause, or fail to prevent, unnecessary suffering to the animal.

One side effect of being left too long in the trap is that they can start to develop hypothermia, due to the breath of the rodent creating moisture in the trap, which wets the fur and makes them extremely cold.

Releasing them can also become an issue because:

• It is illegal to release them onto a neighbours property
• Releasing them less than 100metres away will provide short-lived respite as they will likely find their way back
• Rodents are neophobic, which means that they have a deep fear of new things. Therefore, those who are released back into the wilderness have a very low chance of survival as they are likely to starve, become dehydrated or be eaten by predators due to the unfamiliarity.

 

I'm sure the conflict between the bold sections is obvious here...

[magnetman]

Its interesting that mice have a very deep fear of new things. 

 

I'd been wondering about a new rug for winter for the wooden floor. 

 

Might this deter mice due to their very deep fear? 

 

 

You could put other new things here and there perhaps by doors. 

 

A new umbrella maybe..

Edited September 19, 2023 by magnetman
missing

[IanD]

6 minutes ago, magnetman said:

Its interesting that mice have a very deep fear of new things. 

 

I'd been wondering about a new rug for winter for the wooden floor. 

 

Might this deter mice due to their very deep fear? 

 

You could put other new things here and there perhaps by doors. 

 

A new umbrella maybe..

A new cat might be more effective... 😉

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

49 minutes ago, IanD said:

Not sure quite what point your last missive is trying to make... 😉

Can you honestly not see it? 

 

[IanD]

4 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

Can you honestly not see it? 

 

Nope -- what am I supposed to have done that's so offensive? AFAIK I didn't change/remove anything meaningful, all I did was edit the post to make it clearer what I meant instead of adding yet another post -- like this one...

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

42 minutes ago, IanD said:

Nope -- what am I supposed to have done that's so offensive? AFAIK I didn't change/remove anything meaningful, all I did was edit the post to make it clearer what I meant instead of adding yet another post -- like this one...

He’s getting at, you gave a good answer  originally then had to add your bit that people read “it’s about you” and basically boasting a little. As mentioned previously, I think most people de-cypher your replies differently than you think they read them. Sorry.

Edited September 19, 2023 by BoatinglifeupNorth

[IanD]

30 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

He’s getting at, you gave a good answer  originally then had to add your bit that people read “it’s all about you” and basically bragging. As mentioned previously, I think most people de-cypher your replies differently than you think they read them. Sorry.

All I did was say what kind of mousetrap I meant, intended as a bit of tongue-in-cheek humour -- and that some technology mousetraps actually are useful even to CWDF posters... 😉

 

I'll also point out that he's has made little personal digs like that at me on many occasions, usually to try and get a rise out of me, which is why I try and ignore them because it just leads to a pointless flame war. It's trolling according to the dictionary definition, and I'm not going to play his game...

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

26 minutes ago, IanD said:

All I did was say what kind of mousetrap I meant, intended as a bit of tongue-in-cheek humour -- and that some technology mousetraps actually are useful even to CWDF posters... 😉

 

I'll also point out that he's has made little personal digs like that at me on many occasions, usually to try and get a rise out of me, which is why I try and ignore them because it just leads to a pointless flame war. It's trolling according to the dictionary definition, and I'm not going to play his game...

You’ll be on your boat soon and hopefully you’ll put this forum on the back burner and realise things on here aren’t worth thinking or worrying about.

[IanD]

2 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

You’ll be on your boat soon and hopefully you’ll put this forum on the back burner and realise things on here aren’t worth thinking or worrying about.

But there is still plenty of useful and helpful information to be had on CWDF, indeed as seen from some posters in this thread -- it's still leagues in front of most other canal resources on the internet, especially by having many years of posts which are searchable... 😉

[Stroudwater1]

Am I the only one that find they (buttons tipcats or anything coming out horizontally from the stern) don’t protect the rudder much on rear cills of some locks.
 

When the bottom gates start to open going down and the level gets equalised our boat heads backwards moderately fast towards the top gate , too quick to get on and throttle foreward in time. The cill often pokes out with a lip that then becomes the gate (hope I’m making sence….) thus the button/tip cat is too high to stop the rudder from hitting the cill. 

 

Im not sure much can be done unless your rudder via the tiller arm can be pushed and stays sideways which ours doesnt and I don’t want to tie it either. So I have to get on smartish sometimes.   

Edited September 19, 2023 by Stroudwater1

[___]

13 minutes ago, Stroudwater1 said:

Am I the only one that find they (buttons tipcats or anything coming out horizontally from the stern) don’t protect the rudder much on rear cills of some locks.
 

When the bottom gates start to open going down and the level gets equalised our boat heads backwards moderately fast towards the top gate , too quick to get on and throttle foreward in time. The cill often pokes out with a lip that then becomes the gate (hope I’m making sence….) thus the button/tip cat is too high to stop the rudder from hitting the cill. 

 

Im not sure much can be done unless your rudder via the tiller arm can be pushed and stays sideways which ours doesnt and I don’t want to tie it either. So I have to get on smartish sometimes.   

That’s what @IanD was getting at earlier in the thread.

 

However there are good reasons for fenders sitting high on motor boats even if it isn’t always ideal. Firstly they are seated between the cant and top guard where they will sit hard against the stern and not rock on the guard. They are also configured for towing where the height prevents the bow of the butty from oversailing the stern of the motor. 
 

Though if you fit three whacking great tipcats you might be fine.

 

I wish my fenders were a touch higher but that can’t be done.

 

Of course you can always restrain the boat by the use of a line.

 

Edited September 19, 2023 by Captain Pegg

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

As @IanD stated a lot of the Cant high fenders are too high and not practical on modern leisure boats. Maybe more useful on a laden workboat back in the day. More sensible to have your rear fenders nearer the top of the rudder these days on a modern leisure boat, so offering some protection.

Edited September 19, 2023 by BoatinglifeupNorth

[IanD]

14 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

As @IanD stated a lot of the Cant high fenders are too high and not practical on modern boats. Maybe more useful on a laden workboat back in the day. More sensible to have your rear fenders nearer the top of the rudder these days on a modern leisure boat.

 

Even if you can get the fender lower, on a lot of boats -- especially trad ones with a big prop and rudder -- the rudder sticks out a *long* way past the stern, too far to make it easy to protect with fenders unless they're really stacked up three or four deep or you turn the rudder sideways (not always possible) -- even if it's low enough it should really protrude at least a couple inches past the rudder to protect it even when it squishes against something vertical, or more for the case mentioned a couple of posts back.

 

That's one reason I went for the rudder setup on mine (only about 8" protrusion, so an 11" button should be enough), also because I know it's tight getting a 60' boat through locks like Salterhebble -- but that's no help to somebody with a longer rudder... 😞

Edited September 19, 2023 by IanD

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

Most hire boats seem to have a bit of rubber on the end of some boxed steel which reaches past the rudder. 
Seems a good idea?

Could have it hinged, to lift in tight locks, or when mooring in to that tight space where you just need a couple more feet. 

[IanD]

16 minutes ago, Goliath said:

Most hire boats seem to have a bit of rubber on the end of some boxed steel which reaches past the rudder. 
Seems a good idea?

Could have it hinged, to lift in tight locks, or when mooring in to that tight space where you just need a couple more feet. 

I wouldn't say most but for sure some do, a couple I've hired had this and it can obviously be lifted out of the way if wanted -- or this will happen anyway if it catches on a cill when going down a lock, assuming the rudder doesn't. Usually needs building-in when the hull is made (there's a recess with a hinge for it). I expect many boaters think they look hideous, though. And the ones I've seen do hinge *up* out of the way, but there's no way they can move *down* so if you catch them under something when going up in a lock you could be in real trouble, there's no way they'll give way...

[___]

58 minutes ago, IanD said:

 

Even if you can get the fender lower, on a lot of boats -- especially trad ones with a big prop and rudder -- the rudder sticks out a *long* way past the stern, too far to make it easy to protect with fenders unless they're really stacked up three or four deep or you turn the rudder sideways (not always possible) -- even if it's low enough it should really protrude at least a couple inches past the rudder to protect it even when it squishes against something vertical, or more for the case mentioned a couple of posts back.

 

That's one reason I went for the rudder setup on mine (only about 8" protrusion, so an 11" button should be enough), also because I know it's tight getting a 60' boat through locks like Salterhebble -- but that's no help to somebody with a longer rudder... 😞

 

I don’t totally buy the theory about high fenders being about laden boats. Working boats ride the gates up and down. The fender set up has a lot to do with towing but also the fact that as has been explained tipcats enable the fenders to be broken and when locking through narrow locks with a full length historic that’s a common requirement so the fenders have to be in a position where it’s practical to lift.

 

I’ve also got a picture that demonstrates that the trim of an empty carrying boat versus a loaded one is such that the counter does not disappear beneath the water to any great extent. Unfortunately it’s too big and I’m not in a position to resize it at present.

 

I have lots of photos of the back end of working boats. The odd one might amuse you but the majority don’t bear out what you say.