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Think I might be in trouble.


david909

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3 hours ago, david909 said:

.......
They let me take the boat away with no mooring spikes and no water key!
What an adventure. It's a good job it's warm and sunny.
 

I think this comment may help explain why you have received such poor service, you seem to have entirely misunderstood the situation. 

 

It is not a hire boat and the boatyard are not responsible for it, you own the boat and it is up to you to make sure it is properly equipped and maintained, yes you can pay people to carry out work on it, but they are only responsible for the bits they do, the only person responsible for the boat as a whole is you.

 

They didn't let you "take the boat away with no mooring spikes or water key". 

You forgot or didn't think to check that those items were present.

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You may well be in trouble, a large or a small problem.

But lets explore how you have got into trouble.

You allowed a boatyard to browbeat you into repairs, then failed to control what and how work was done.

Now you blame them for letting you out without essential equipment.

So my view is that you need to grow up and take command of your life instead of blaming others for letting you make mistakes.

You may not like my remarks but please stop and think for a moment. Who makes the mistakes?

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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21 minutes ago, Lady M said:

Or perhaps the OP just didn't know that boats don't always come with these items.  A purchaser who hasn't hired first may not even know that these exist.  However, brokerages could perhaps improve the purchaser experience by mentioning such items.

The list of items you might need is pretty long, is the broker expected to mention them all and if not where would you draw the line?

Also is the broker expected to "improve the purchaser experience" by providing training on boat handling, mooring and lock use etc for inexperienced boaters?

I wouldn't expect an estate agent to tell me I will be liable for council tax and utility bills when I buy a house, or that anything not physically attached may not be included in the sale.

 

People need to take responsibility for themselves. 

 

There are plenty of sources of information, from the CRT website, this forum, books, magazines and even Facebook and YouTube. If people don't do their research they can't hold other people responsible. 

Edited by Barneyp
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1 hour ago, IanD said:

Do the threaded tap connectors on hoses like this fit CRT water points, or are they non-standard? I know perfectly well what water point taps look like, but exact size matters...

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hozelock-Ltd-B0056GUJ1I-Reel-Hose/dp/B0056GUJ1I/

 

(asking because I need to buy one...)

One of these fits the vast majority of CRT taps. Obtainable from garden centres, DIY sheds and hardware shops everywhere.  Keep at least one spare in case you lose it (or leave it behind on the tap).2167-2175-2184-ThreadTapcmyk-600x600.jpg

 

Occasionally you will find a ribbed spigot which 1/2" case can be pushed on directly - just remove the end fitting from the hose.

And if all else fails one of the generic rubber+jubilee clip types will fit most taps.

2177.jpg

 

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I bought a boat that had been  on shorepower, no surprise it needed new batteries, big surprise it had about seven batteries!

I had plenty of mooring 

ropes, and anchorplait but had to buy anchor and chain.

I  now have two goat chains, one nappy pin, five mooring pins, one lump hammer, three BW keys, three corks, several fenders, one hose, three windlasses, fuel containers, etc etc  most of these things I have had to buy.

Plus a modern lifejacket

Three toolkits, grease, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, gas testing liquid, spare alternator belt. 

A new padlock, a new door lock. A boat pole, a boat hook.

If you buy a new boat you usually get a boat in working order, but most of these other things are extras.

 

 

Edited by LadyG
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4 hours ago, agg221 said:

 

However, the learning curve for such things is not very long or steep. Get yourself a CRT key, a hose for filling the water tank, the keys to undo the water and diesel filler caps, an anti-vandal key for locks, a couple of mooring spikes and a hammer and personally I would add a couple of goat chains for mooring to piling (I prefer them to nappy pins). 

 

 

I would say get four mooring stakes, not two.

 

If you moor up with only one at either end you will need to regularly check that they have not come loose due to passing boats. Especially if they are going a bit fast.

 

With four you can use two at either end driven into the ground at opposing angles, preferably with one going through the ring/hoop of the other. Arranged like that they will feel far more sturdy and will be far less likely to come loose or pull out.

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Lily Rose said:

 

I would say get four mooring stakes, not two.

 

If you moor up with only one at either end you will need to regularly check that they have not come loose due to passing boats. Especially if they are going a bit fast.

 

With four you can use two at either end driven into the ground at opposing angles, preferably with one going through the ring/hoop of the other. Arranged like that they will feel far more sturdy and will be far less likely to come loose or pull out.

 

 

 

Don't forget that early days you are quite likely to lose a pin. Ditto a windlass,  also a really big windlass may be needed on some locks, if you stay on one navigation you won't need such an extensive inventory.

 

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27 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I bought a boat that had been  on shorepower, no surprise it needed new batteries, big surprise it had about seven batteries!

I had plenty of mooring 

ropes, and anchorplait but had to buy anchor and chain.

I  now have two goat chains, one nappy pin, five mooring pins, one lump hammer, three BW keys, three corks, several fenders, one hose, three windlasses, fuel containers, etc etc  most of these things I have had to buy.

Plus a modern lifejacket

Three toolkits, grease, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, gas testing liquid, spare alternator belt. 

A new padlock, a new door lock. A boat pole, a boat hook.

If you buy a new boat you usually get a boat in working order, but most of these other things are extras.

 

 

 

Wot, no partridge in a pear tree? :)

 

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3 hours ago, David Mack said:

One of these fits the vast majority of CRT taps. Obtainable from garden centres, DIY sheds and hardware shops everywhere.  Keep at least one spare in case you lose it (or leave it behind on the tap).2167-2175-2184-ThreadTapcmyk-600x600.jpg

 

Occasionally you will find a ribbed spigot which 1/2" case can be pushed on directly - just remove the end fitting from the hose.

And if all else fails one of the generic rubber+jubilee clip types will fit most taps.

2177.jpg

 

The first one is what comes with the hose I posted the link to.

1 hour ago, Lily Rose said:

 

I would say get four mooring stakes, not two.

 

If you moor up with only one at either end you will need to regularly check that they have not come loose due to passing boats. Especially if they are going a bit fast.

 

With four you can use two at either end driven into the ground at opposing angles, preferably with one going through the ring/hoop of the other. Arranged like that they will feel far more sturdy and will be far less likely to come loose or pull out.

 

 

Pairs like that with the rope through both hoops also make it a lot more difficult for late-night passing oiks to pull out the spikes amd set you adrift. DAMHIK...

Edited by IanD
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Wasn’t brow beaten into anything. I fix computers for people. Regardless of how annoying, presumptuous or ignorant a customer is I don’t overcharge them because that’s stealing. 
Nor did I expect all to be provided for me without any effort on my part. Seeing as how they happily sold me barge pole and boat hook I’m surprised they didn’t mention the others is all. Missed a sale there.

No matter, I’m aboard and learning fast. 

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We were lucky, first boat we bought had an enormous excess of tools and accessories - we sold some of the contents of the boat (they were almost antiques, things like old windlasses) and made a bit of money). The second boat was fairly well equipped but a few important tools missing, 1 decent windlass and no nappy pins.

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3 minutes ago, david909 said:

Nappy pins?

 

To attach to the canal wall where there’s no mooring rings/bollards?

 

 

Its a slang/nickname for this: 

 

Canal Mooring Hook Piling Hook With Ring Safety Pin Galvanised Walsh UK Quality - Picture 1 of 8

The proper term is "mooring hook" or "piling hook". For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314727755776?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1wqfbMsAzSgyNSDRF-0TE0g42&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=314727755776

 

ETA, there are 4 (main) ways to moor/things to tie onto: mooring pins, nappy pins, goat chains, rings/bollards. Having the equipment and ability to moor to any of those, ensures maximum flexibility of where to moor. For example, sometimes you can only get onto the end, so its mooring pin and nappy pin. Or a ring and pin. Some people prefer goat chains, I don't like them because they make noise thru the night where nappy pins (correctly done) don't.

Edited by Paul C
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17 minutes ago, Paul C said:

ETA, there are 4 (main) ways to moor/things to tie onto: mooring pins, nappy pins, goat chains, rings/bollards. Having the equipment and ability to moor to any of those, ensures maximum flexibility of where to moor. For example, sometimes you can only get onto the end, so its mooring pin and nappy pin. Or a ring and pin. Some people prefer goat chains, I don't like them because they make noise thru the night where nappy pins (correctly done) don't.

Nappy pins and goat chains are essentially interchangeable. Some prefer one, others prefer the other. For reasons I can't explain I regularly forget to pick up nappy pins but always remember goat chains. I also like the fact that they provide positive attachment by going right around something, and there are some cases where you can thread the chain down the back of something but the front isn't standard piling shaped, so the chain will still work while the pin won't. I had this at the Audlem gathering this year - we were the last boat on the offside, directly opposite the Shroppie Fly, by the lock. The ground was too soft to hold a pin and the working of the lock would have pulled us out. The piling has half collapsed at the front end and is under water but by reaching right down I could thread the chain in (below water level) and it was fine whereas the nappy pin wouldn't have worked. I fully accept that others would have just moved to a different mooring! It's very much personal choice on this one.


Alec

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6 hours ago, IanD said:

 

Do the threaded tap connectors on hoses like this fit CRT water points, or are they non-standard? I know perfectly well what water point taps look like, but exact size matters...

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hozelock-Ltd-B0056GUJ1I-Reel-Hose/dp/B0056GUJ1I/

 

(asking because I need to buy one...)


That’s fine for CRT use but If you buy the whole hose reel you may need to cut 1mm off it as The Thames prohibit the use of 30m or more hosepipes 🤣 

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51 minutes ago, Paul C said:

Some people prefer goat chains, I don't like them because they make noise thru the night where nappy pins (correctly done) don't.

 

Do tell, what can be done to a nappy pin that can't be done to a goat chain, to stop them clanking from the draw of a passing boat?!

 

 

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