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240v cable


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4 minutes ago, smudgersboat699 said:

Thanks for the advice will definitely do more checking

 

The full set of regulations are quite impressive - @Duck-n-Dive (who is a qualified marine electrician) uses them to ballast his boat!

 

We aren't trying to scare you, we are trying to save your life - or at least your boat! 

 

Even if it doesn't go that far, you would (probably) fail a BSS inspection and need to redo it correctly later anyway so it's well worth doing it right first.

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16 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Your 240v cables must be separated from all gas pipes

That is incorrect - your cables can be actually attached to the gas pipe (cable ties, tape, whatever)

 

SINGLE insulated cable cannot be attached to the gas pipe, BUT, the 3-core mains cable is both insulated and sheathed so it is allowed.

 

From the Boat safety Scheme Notes :

 

3.3.2 Are all cables clear of LPG and fuel supply lines? R

Check the clearance of all electrical cables which can be seen from LPG or fuel supply lines.

Check any conduit is of a non‐conducting material. Electrical cables must be installed clear of LPG and fuel supply lines unless they are in a conduit made of non‐conducting material. NOTE – this check appliesto both a.c. and d.c. cables.

NOTE – cables confirmed as double insulated (sheathed) cables are not subject to this check.

 

Edit : Unfortunately Tracy won't see this as she has me on ignore. 

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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I used SY 1.5mm2 specification cable on the basis I might have needed to use the screen to prevent interference issues with the DC wires.  As it happened there is no issue but given it took me 4 days to retrofit the cables it was worth it "just in case".  SY is a generic cable spec but I use these guys for online electrical stuff https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MF1dot5slash3.html

 

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12 minutes ago, GRLMK38 said:

I used SY 1.5mm2 specification cable on the basis I might have needed to use the screen to prevent interference issues with the DC wires.  As it happened there is no issue but given it took me 4 days to retrofit the cables it was worth it "just in case".  SY is a generic cable spec but I use these guys for online electrical stuff https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MF1dot5slash3.html

 

probably excessive overkill unless the mains is running close to any bus system (Canbus, Empire Bus) control cables or electronic instrument cables running between sender/aerial and instrument. I would hate to think about getting the metal braid bonded properly to prevent EMR

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16 minutes ago, GRLMK38 said:

I used SY 1.5mm2 specification cable on the basis I might have needed to use the screen to prevent interference issues with the DC wires.  As it happened there is no issue but given it took me 4 days to retrofit the cables it was worth it "just in case".  SY is a generic cable spec but I use these guys for online electrical stuff https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MF1dot5slash3.html

 

SY cables are the spawn of Satan!  Great idea in theory but if you insist on using them, dealing with the steel wire braid is a bit of a problem and really necessitates the use of proper cable glands. 

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1 hour ago, GRLMK38 said:

I used SY 1.5mm2 specification cable on the basis I might have needed to use the screen to prevent interference issues with the DC wires.  As it happened there is no issue but given it took me 4 days to retrofit the cables it was worth it "just in case".  SY is a generic cable spec but I use these guys for online electrical stuff https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MF1dot5slash3.html

 

If you are trying to get protection from errant signals that that 'stuff' is of little use. The steel braid is an 'open braid' (big gaps in it) and is primarily designed to give mechanical protection (running over, being dragged over rocks etc)

If you want to have electrical shielding you need to use cables to "Def Stan 61-12 part 4" (MOD Defence standards) which are used in data transfer cables.

 

We used to design, manufacture & supply the steel braided cables to the NCB (in fact I wrote many of the specifications)

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58 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

probably excessive overkill unless the mains is running close to any bus system (Canbus, Empire Bus) control cables or electronic instrument cables running between sender/aerial and instrument. I would hate to think about getting the metal braid bonded properly to prevent EMR

The good thing about Canbus(including Empirbus) is that it is a differential system (2 matched signals going in opposite directions) and as such it is extremely tolerant of common mode noise eg from adjacent wires.

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1 hour ago, Batavia said:

SY cables are the spawn of Satan!  Great idea in theory but if you insist on using them, dealing with the steel wire braid is a bit of a problem and really necessitates the use of proper cable glands. 

Like I say it was a "just in case" given the amount of hassle in running the wires in retrospectively.  I appreciate there is complex science behind this and my application of theory may not be correct but hey-ho .....

 

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1 hour ago, dor said:

And make sure that you use ferrules on the cable ends when connecting to screw contacts.  Needed with multi strand cable unlike domestic T&E cable.

Although who uses a ferrule when connecting multi strand flex on a domestic appliance to a 13 A plug with screw terminals?

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15 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Although who uses a ferrule when connecting multi strand flex on a domestic appliance to a 13 A plug with screw terminals?

That is where the old MK ones were good, don't know about the new ones as they had a built in washer

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21 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Although who uses a ferrule when connecting multi strand flex on a domestic appliance to a 13 A plug with screw terminals?

I do ?

That is also one of the reasons appliances have moulded plugs these days

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31 minutes ago, Loddon said:

In my house it is still all red and black, all tested and tickety boo ;)

 

Of course  its green/yellow now-a-days, spoils the poetry.

 

Its very confusing now when you open a JB and, old and new, it can look look a rainbow.

I have a dis board that has red, blue, yellow, green, green/yellow, black, grey, and brown so which blue is a live and which a neutral? One day I may heat shrink sleeve them all to the new standard.

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19 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Of course  its green/yellow now-a-days, spoils the poetry.

 

Its very confusing now when you open a JB and, old and new, it can look look a rainbow.

I have a dis board that has red, blue, yellow, green, green/yellow, black, grey, and brown so which blue is a live and which a neutral? One day I may heat shrink sleeve them all to the new standard.

especially if you through a bit of three core and earth in for good measure,

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14 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Of course  its green/yellow now-a-days, spoils the poetry.

 

Its very confusing now when you open a JB and, old and new, it can look look a rainbow.

I have a dis board that has red, blue, yellow, green, green/yellow, black, grey, and brown so which blue is a live and which a neutral? One day I may heat shrink sleeve them all to the new standard.

The whole change was a mess as far as three phase was concerned. 

 

Even the bits I have added are red and black it was either that or rip it all out and start again as my OCD will not allow mixed colours.

The only bit that is new colours is the main input as that had to be changed because of its size as we have a new DB fitted.

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