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My view: 1. You are completely right in your concerns about safety. 2. There is no way you can successfully change the situation at the present. The entire system is against you (as confirmed by the attitude of some posters on here.) 3. When you have been at the marina for some time and have got a reputation with them for being reliable and sensible, then you might be able to suggest improvements without being immediately suspected of trying to undermine everybody. But this will take quite a while. Years.

There seems to be some confusion about the role of HSE and health and safety law. HSE and local authorities enforce health and safety (H&S) law, they don't make it. H&S law is made by parliament and the Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974 places a duty on employers to ensure, so far as reasonably practicable, the health and safety of their employees and those likely to be affected by their work. Thus, a marina is responsible for the health and safety of its employees and those using the employer's premises. i.e the marina. (That's a bit of a generalisation, and it is couched in terms of what is reasonably practicable, but you get the gist). (See also, Marina development safety | Canal & River Trust (canalrivertrust.org.uk) ) I hope that helps. James (a retired HSE Principal Inspector)

Buy a load of bubble wrap from Amazon, turn off the gas, wrap yourself up and stay on the sofa, should be safe there.

A marina I was moored in had the misfortune of a visit from the health and safety police. They were alerted to a so called problem when a moorer broke their ankle whilst trying to get on their boat. This boat owner had only been at the marina a few months,after having their boat craned in. They had absolutely no clue about boats and boating and had no interest in finding out. They seemed surprised that boats and pontoons actually moved. Not wishing to take any responsibility for what had happened,they tried to place blame on the marina owner, and eventually got the H&S people to visit the marina. The result was that the boat owner was asked to leave,the owner was forced to undertake some upgrades,and the mooring fees went up for everyone else moored there to pay for these so called improvements. The boat owner wasn't actually able to move their boat themselves,and had to pay for it to be moved. The marina is no safer than it ever was, but thankfully has one less idiot mooring there. It transpired later that the person who had complained was intoxicated. It amazes me that some people arrive at a marina and instantly want to try and 'improve' it for themselves at the expense of others who are happy with things as they are.

So you want to be asked to leave the marina in double quick time then. If you fell into most marinas (not all) you can easily stand up with the water barely up to your waist. When you are on your boat, I would expect you to have your own life ring/throw line ready for use, and you also have the fire extinguishers demanded by the BSS. If you have a modern boat, it should have been built with a means of climbing back onto it. if it is older, you can do as I did and supply & fit my own. Why is a fire assembly point so important to you? Do you have one at home? Work out how you will deal with a fire on your boat or one moored close to you, and it is job done. If you don't feel safe there, then rather than try to force your views on others, just find a marina with all that you require.

Why not, I extended my mooring from 55ft to 70 feet of usable space this Summer..

More like this has the smell of an individual who has got used to being told others should take responsibility for their safety/wellbeing instead of thinking for themselves.

Well, I think your expectations of marina safety are very reasonable and I am surprised by all the negative responses.

I did some work there on their steam engine. One of the benefits was the weekly visit to the museum's tasting room.

No, no, no.!!! You've got it all wrong. In this day and age it's always somebody else's fault. How else would the compensation culture thrive? 😇😇😇

One of the other marina pontoons was ripped in half and destroyed in March gales. This was replaced on insurance by the marina owner. The removed halves were left on the bank, so I stripped down all usable wood supports, found some old scaff poles and clamps, spent £250 on new decking, and 2 weekends working on it. I'm not an engineer, not ever been in construction and have no van. (...but yes, I have a boat FULL of tools says Kathy..)

I don't think there are ANY requirements. My rationale is that "marina" covers a broad range of moorings, from the simple 1-2 boats end of field, to a larger online mooring, to a finger-pontoon style broadened stretch of canal, to an offline marina. Sure, they could impose a stepped set of rules/requirements depending on size, but I don't believe they do. My advice would be to equip yourself and your boat with whatever you feel you need for your own personal safety - be it a decent torch for the winter months, lifejacket, better/more appropriate footwear, rescue ladder, liferings on the boat etc. It also has the advantage its near to hand if/when you go cruising.

I think you are in the wrong marina! Might be a good idea to find one which meets your requirements then you won't worry as much as you obviously are at the moment.

That is my view plus Tony's comment on quality . The bigger it is the less often the pump will need to start.

I think you have two options having seen your photo. (Looks great by the way!) 1) Put up with it. Or: 2) Lift that nice floor covering and inspect everything underneath supporting it. It will get destroyed in the process.

Which makes this thread pure gold dust. I doubt that there's anywhere else where so much of relevance to electric drive is written down in one place! By all means tell me I'm wrong and point me to it ........

Some low-power internal circuits have to be active all the time to detect when a USB plug is inserted, I expect the main internal SMPS is then turned on to supply the required voltage/current/power (up to 45W or so) to the connector. The spec says "<0.1W" quiescent power, but it could easily be less than this in reality -- that suspiciously-round number might just be code-speak for "too small to worry about"... 😉

I'm pleased to say that where I moor the H&S rules are stated in our contract as "moorers are responsible for maintaining their landing stages". Occasionally a notice appears on the gate saying the electric fence is switched on. If you want to live by water, one should expect to be responsible for one's own safety. Arthur Ransome said it best "Better drowned than duffers. If not duffers, won't drown" (as far as I recall).

Mind you, driving through floods destroys lots of IC engines as well.

That's ok , thought someone else might come across the same problem one day. It was the whole fan unit which also has the motor. It wasn't a big difference in price to just get the whole thing and couldn't open it up to look inside and dismantle it. It was the easiest option to just buy the whole thing assembled. It most likely was the motor not blowing the smoke out.

First of all it is not The diaphragm - singular. It is a diaphragm assembly consisting of 5 (I think) small diaphragms for 5 small pumps. There are few accumulators that do not use a bladder or diaphragm, this means we can not be sure the one you are dealing with has or has not. If you did hear air bubbling through water, it suggests (no more than suggest) that the bladder/diaphragm may be punctured. You can't check the pump cut out pressure without a pressure gauge, but you can set the accumulator pressure. Blow the accumulator up to well above the normal pressure, using a hand pump, may give a better feel. Turn the pump on and wait for it to turn off. Push the pin in the accumulator valve down to slowly release the air pressure until the pump just cuts in. That is it - accumulator pressure set.

There is no electrical reason to put a fuse between the panels and the controller. Fuses are to protect the cable and the cable on the panel is sized to take the full shorted output of the panel. A switch between the panels and controller can be useful to disconnect the panels so you can work on the system.

If you run a direct drive motor with the controller in torque mode instead of speed mode you can stop the prop by jamming it (e.g. with a piece of wood) without damage... 😉

I'm surprised that IanD uses as much as 3kW for normal cruising in what is almost certainly a lighter, and thus shallower, boat than Ampère (23 tonnes). I suspect that a factor is a missing from the discussion - speed. We usually cruise using 2.25kW. This gives us 430 rpm which, in turn, gives 3.3 mph in open water, 3 mph in wide and reasonably deep canals (think Paddington Arm or parts of the Bridgewater) and 2.25-2.75 in most other canals. However, as power required (strictly speaking for a sphere) goes up as the cube of the speed (a very good graph for Firecrest is closer to a 5th power), there doesn't need to be much difference in speed to produce a big difference in power consumption, possibly enough to outweigh the effects of motors and propellers, though better choice of those will still pay dividends.