Kristina
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Yeah there’s a bunch of flexible hose in the circuit. anyway will take into account in the future
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It was the god damn cheap pump, finally got it working. Lesson learned. So you recon it’s worth fitting bore bypass to the header tank in the near future. The header tank we have is is the same as what Awayonmyboat has talked about with a cap on top two hose barns on bottom and should pressurise as water heats up
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It’s installed with one fan blower and one radiator/towel rail. Will reset webasto again just in case it locked out but it didn’t seem that it overheated the time it worked after installation. Ran smoothly and was turned off on the control by us until the next day. the header tank has a screw on lid after system was bled Was closed so I don’t know how air would be introduced and entering into the system
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While it’s not common in boats we consciously choose this install as our friends have had this system for years on a boat. Will take into consideration fitting bypass valve into the system
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Installation guide for heat exchanger system does not show necessary bypass valve. Header tank used to feed in and out on two ends (I have been assured is one of the two options )
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That’s a system with a calorifier tank no? We have a heat exchanger so no bypass valve
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They used their own. So we bought a proper one should arrive next week.
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Thank you will try tests the voltage the way you said and fit the new pump next time. We did consider the second pump is backwards so double checked, but can see in header tank coolant is moving in the same direction as running the webasto or just connecting the second pump on its own to a battery.
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That’s what we did last time we tested again using this logic also and had new fuel in a can as another engineer suggested this
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Turns out it’s a car webasto , batteries might be the issue, will check voltage again next time. What should it not drop below to cut out?
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Ok will test with voltmeter next, waiting on webasto brand fuel pump also since we have a cheap one
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Understanding that it’s ether of three problems. Power, fuel or air. Have in no way been dismissive but testing for these issues now several times. Currently waiting on new webasto brand fuel pump as one we have was a cheap one, will check and with multimeter next time also but after running diagnostics several times which shows voltage as it starts up it doesn’t drop low from what we can see. The seller had it working at 12.29V from video he sent me. Surely it’s a process of identifying possible issue then testing for this issue don’t know why this thread is getting all dramatic
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Leak was near radiator at straight connector, it has been tightened. No leaks anywhere also in system. System was bled through thoroughly several times air released if there was any at radiator and header tank. It’s nit acting like an air lock which we had before and fixed. Can see coolant pumping through the system. There’s no way air is getting in magically into the coolant system there are no leaks to suggest this. Not ignoring it literally have tried to address each of the ideas several ways multiple times now and still it’s not working
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Have been assured it’s a boat one by seller also this is the specs the diagnostics shows. I doubt that I’m getting so scammed that the seller tested it twice himself and still sent it back working and also it worked in bucket on our end and heated up one time
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