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No, you're making the assumption Ivan has the BMV wired to the alternator which is not true, so it cant go the wrong way round. Reversing the shunt will mean the electrons are going the wrong way and with only solar attached that means they will head in that direction and the panels will emit light rather than absorb them. This could cause problems at night if the boat next door does not like artificial light. Boat security at night should be improved though. Clever! It is pretty difficult to connect the BMV 712 shunt the wrong way round. The destruction book is quite explicit in what to do and is not confusing in any way. Ivan must be more of a muppet than me if he got it the wrong way round. Come on Ivan. Own up!

I have just been having a chat with the lovely couple that we used to moor next to at Hatherton Marina. Their current boat is called Baker's Dozen (Their surname is Baker). Ron built the boat himself. Before he retired his foundry used to bend the metal to supply the bow and stern sections for Les Allen boats and he has memories going back to childhood of the canals in the black country as his grandfather set up a foundry (I think in the mid 40's?) next to one of the inclined planes where coal was delivered by boat The previous boat he built in 1976 and it was called Baker's Boy. He mentioned to me that he would love to see a photo of his old boat again. He said it was around 35' long and they spent a lot of time boating on it with their two young children. They both have such fond memories of their times boating. He said the last he heard of his old boat it was owned by quite an elderly lady whomoored it on The Stratford Canal and it was called "Jamie" He has been trying to find a photo that might have the CRT registration number on it but without any joy. I can find this on CanalplanAC - I can't be certain that is the correct vessel and I am not certain I have got all the details as correct as I would like. I now it is a long shot but does anyone know if this boat might still be around somewhere or perhaps have a photo of it at all? Please do not put any current owner in a compromised position by posting details of it's current location on here. I would just love to try and bring a smile to dear old Ron's face by letting him know his boat is still around. He is struggling in lock down having to chop logs in the garden (even though he no longer has a stove to burn them in) He will be 82 next month and seeing as we can't share a curry with them to celebrate perhaps I can get some information on his old boat for him?

The owner occupier can take responsibility for her own safety in her home. The renter has to depend on somebody else. and as we all know, that somebody else might not care quite as much if the safety measures hit him in the pocket. Also, you can't sue yourself, but you can sue a landlord. They? They? Now who is choosing the easy target?

It is worse than that. If the shunt is connected the wrong way round it will make the engine run backwards too. The only solution is to swap the gear control cable on to the other side of the morse control lever so ahead becomes ahead again and astern astern. Going for an eight hour cruise will kill your batteries irretrievably. ? Jen

Looks the shunt is wired wrong way round so it thinks the discharge is a charge. I don’t have a BMV but I would normally expect a discharge of 0.8A to be shown as -0.8A. And that would explain why the SoC isn’t dropping and infinite time remaining. i expect if you now run the engine, it will start to show AH consumed and SoC decreasing.

Well the one end of the shunt is marked "Battery" and the other is marked "Charger". Considering that in my system, the shunt connects between the domestic battery -ve (the actual battery) and the starter "battery" -ve (actually the load/charger) I was half right! It's very easy and very explicit in TFM, which I didn't R hard enough I guess. I've just out-muppetted Bob. I really don't have a valid excuse. Thank heavens in this particular case current flows both ways through a shunt and no damage was done, apart from that to my battery stats and my pride. It's good to have a warning like this every now and again before I really break something expensive. For example, my MPPT. I understand that one must always connect the battery first, and the PV afterwards; when disconnecting, disconnect the PV first and the battery afterwards. In other words, the MPPT should never have the PV connected without a battery. (However I read that Victron have made the SmartSolar MPPT a little more muppetproof than most with regard to this connection order). The above implies that using the battery isolator could cause damage to the MPPT, right? Because if I shut off the battery, the MPPT is going to be connected to the PV but not the battery? This came up because I wanted to use the isolator before switching the shunt polarity. However I decided I'd better disconnect the solar first. I then wondered if perhaps the panels might not like being disconnected under load, all connected in series as they are that's 160V abruptly pulled from the bare wire terminal - sparky sparky! In the end I shaded the panels, flipped the isolator, switched the BMV shunt and reversed the process in less than a minute, and the MPPT seemed completely fine. But what should I do here for the future? I feel like a circuit breaker on the PV positive wire would be a wise idea, placed directly next to the isolator with a plaque in Muppettese instructing said muppet to flip the circuit breaker before flipping the isolator. Would this do any mischief to the panels themselves - perhaps they should they have a dump load attached? Am I overthinking this whole thing out of embarassment for the shunt error?

Not at all... Good job you asked the question, and good job there are enough people here for one to come up with the most unlikely, (or likely), answer. Unless you didn't RTFM, it's obviously not as explicit as Bob suggests

Stubbing Wharf on the Rochdale Canal, seen from the hillside below Hell Hole Rocks And closer up.

VID-20200421-WA0001.mp4

This antenna is very good and popular. I've used it for several years and gives a signal even in the weakest of areas. https://www.solwise.co.uk/4g-antenna-omni-xpol-a0001.html I've currently got it connected to a Huawei B310s-22 router which came unlocked with a Three Homefi deal a couple of years ago. It has a 12V input, so I am able to power it directly from the boat 12V supply. It has two antenna sockets, both of which are connected to the two tails from the antenna. Cancelled the Three deal a few weeks ago, as I got an unlimited data sim with our Virgin Media TV/Phone/Broadband deal. I would make sure you can power the router you buy from your 12V supply.... or you will have to faff about with inverter supply, (which may, or may not, matter to you ).

The extra wobble from the inverse taper might help though...

Nah, the sterling engine on the stove top blows you away from it.

Good job I am not competing then.......

?

From experiencing the simplest of pleasures comes the greatest satisfaction. From toothbrushes to Ocean going liners we have flooded ourselves with technology that goes beyond necessity. It's time for a reset.

Those Ormelites still have style and character. After this thread came up I asked my dad how much he paid for their first cabin boat (1976). It was £350 for a bare glassfibre moulding for a 16' cabin cruiser, like a tiny Shetland, and he fitted it out, windows, canopy etc. We hankered after a Norman, they were built nearby and the factory was amazing as a kid, but a bit too far out of price range. He had a series of boats after that but sold his NB two years ago. To get back on the canal, I started back over last year with a 1970s Shetland project that cost less than the boat in '76, but it makes me remember the fun that can be had with little boats. Another thing that I used to enjoy with rose tinted glasses was the sheer variety of boats on the canal we were on. All kinds of GRP cruisers, old converted boats, narrowboats, lovely wooden craft. A family at New Mills had a 15' old lake boat that had an Amazing Spaces style cabin he'd built on the top. Half a dozen of them would go off in it for a holiday. We had something similar after the 16' er. It was a 20' GRP hull with a plywood top on it narrowboat style, the Dawncraft 25 was next and seemed like sheer luxury. Four of us in there for three week summer holidays. We only ever actually hired once in the mid 80s, from Viking Afloat, 56' Sigurd, as we had my grandad that year aswell, and that was like how the other half lived. Now I think most Joe Public would turn their nose up at the idea of a holiday in a Dawncraft or Ormelite, in the same way that most people want a boutique hotel or festival glamping but wouldn't be seen dead in a ridge tent on a farmer's field.

I worked with him once... he's tiny.

< adopts smug git expression >

Hmm. I think your main issue is a different one from the problem the rest of us have been trying to diagnose! Which end of that hatch is lower i.e. nearer the stern (assuming the boat is ballasted with the stern lower than the bow)? Water could be running along the under side of the gunwale for some distance before emerging. So all we can say at the moment is that the leak is probably either at the point where the drips occur or forward of that point. The leakage may be coming through the new side hatch, or it could be that the hatch installation interrupted a previous leakage path which deposited the water somewhere unseen. Can you easily remove the cabin lining in the area of the leak to see where the water is coming from?

Call me old fashioned, but my Tik-Tok appliance simply shows the time.

We are in a national and global event the like of which we have not really seen before, and the story is still unfolding. Anybody who makes any predictions is just guessing. I can only offer a bit of wisdom here, if you want to do something then just do it, don't waste away your life waiting for prices to rise, prices to fall, or for some other event outside of your control to occur. .................Dave