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13-10

By 13-10
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Robbo Veteran II

Robbo

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It’s is worth it, you download the kindle app and take a look at the first chapter for nowlt.   I prefer the electronic version as it’s a heavy big book!   Note it’s cheaper from RYA, especially if you a member.

http://www.rya.org.uk/shop/pages/products.aspx?product=boatowners-mechanical-and-electrical-manual-4th-edition

Edited by Robbo
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ronnietucker Rising Star

ronnietuckerDonate to Canal World

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I don't have this particular book, but one good thing about Kindle versions is that you can search it for a particular thing.

Dunno if I'd give them £30 for a digital version though...  :D

Never used these people, but here's the same book for £40 (compared to Amazon's £60)

http://bookshop.blackwell.co.uk/bookshop/product/9780071790338

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Mac of Cygnet Veteran II

Mac of CygnetDonate to Canal World

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Cheaper from the States! https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=22664572102&searchurl=bi%3Dh%26ds%3D5%26sortby%3D17%26tn%3Dboatowners%2Bmechanical%2Belectrical%2Bmanual%26an%3Dnigel%2Bcalder&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title1  £6-80 including postage.   But it doesn't say what edition.  Still, lots available of the 2015 edition at much less than those mentioned.

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ronnietucker Rising Star

ronnietuckerDonate to Canal World

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3 minutes ago, Mac of Cygnet said:

Cheaper from the States! https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=22664572102&searchurl=bi%3Dh%26ds%3D5%26sortby%3D17%26tn%3Dboatowners%2Bmechanical%2Belectrical%2Bmanual%26an%3Dnigel%2Bcalder&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title1  £6-80 including postage.   But it doesn't say what edition.  Still, lots available of the 2015 edition at much less than those mentioned.

Good shout. I used AbeBooks for my Nicholson Guide for the Foth & Clyde. Amazon said £100+ (I kid you not!) and I got it from AbeBooks for £5.

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13-10 Contributor

13-10

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Thanks to all who pointed me in the direction of Tony's excellent site

My target for the end of this year is to be able to do my own servicing and repairs

Hopefully between sites like Tony's, the repair 'bible' mentioned and this forum should be achievable

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WotEver Veteran II

WotEverDonate to Canal World

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2 hours ago, LadyG said:

darn book ............... nothing about "glazing the bores" or "tail current", so these things remain a mystery

Bore glazing is I believe a bit of a myth these days, @Tony Brooks would be best placed to confirm/deny/expand. 

What do you want to know about tail current? It’s a simple enough concept to describe. 

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LadyG Veteran II

LadyGDonate to Canal World

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17 minutes ago, WotEver said:

 

What do you want to know about tail current? It’s a simple enough concept to describe. 

what is it? how to assess it, what should it be ? where is it measured and / when do I need a multi meter or do I use a BM [battery monitor] or SG [smartgauge]

Edited by LadyG
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rusty69 Veteran II

rusty69

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1 minute ago, LadyG said:

what is it? how to assess it, what should it be ?

1.It is the name given to the charging current that indicates when the batteries are "fully charged" at the tail end of charging.

2.Assessed with an Ammeter.

3.Typicaly 1-2% of your battery bank capacity.

4.I'm sure @WotEver will describe it better

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ditchcrawler Veteran II

ditchcrawlerDonate to Canal World

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5 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

1.It is the name given to the charging current that indicates when the batteries are "fully charged" at the tail end of charging.

2.Assessed with an Ammeter.

3.Typicaly 1-2% of your battery bank capacity.

4.I'm sure @WotEver will describe it better

At the correct charging voltage

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WotEver Veteran II

WotEverDonate to Canal World

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24 minutes ago, LadyG said:

what is it? how to assess it, what should it be ? where is it measured and / when do I need a multi meter or do I use a BM [battery monitor] or SG [smartgauge]

What is it...

The charging current going into the Batteries towards the end - the tail - of the charge. 

How to assess it / what should it be...

You should be looking for the current to reduce to around 1-2% of the nominal battery capacity. This is simpler than it sounds. For a 120Ah battery you wait for the current to drop to 1.2A to 2.4A. For a 500Ah battery, 5-10A etc. It may be that the tail current never drops this low with old batteries, in which case you look for it to have remained at a low stable value for around 45 minutes. It is important that you must measure this while the charge source is outputting its normal charging voltage of 14.4V or above (known as the absorption voltage). The charge source must not drop to float voltage (13.6V or thereabouts) until the tail current has dropped to this level. Many (most?) chargers drop to float way too early. 

Where is it measured...

On one of the leads to the battery bank. Either negative or positive, it doesn’t matter, you’re measuring the current flowing into the battery. 

How is it measured...

With an ammeter. This can be in the form of a handheld multimeter although that’s not very convenient, or a standalone shunt based ammeter that you have installed. Battery Ah counting gauges such as the BMV all incorporate a shunt based ammeter so they could be used too. 

A Smartgauge specifically will NOT measure tail current as it does not measure current at all; it indicates the charge state of your batteries when you are using (discharging) them by measuring voltage. 

Have a read of this:

 

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Tony Brooks Veteran II

Tony BrooksDonate to Canal World

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11 hours ago, WotEver said:

Bore glazing is I believe a bit of a myth these days, @Tony Brooks would be best placed to confirm/deny/expand. 

What do you want to know about tail current? It’s a simple enough concept to describe. 

My view is that its a bit like diesel bug in that it is wise to take precautions but it may or may not be a real threat on any particular engine design. It is interesting that one mariniser of Mitsubishi engines seemed to have no concerns yet the major one stated their engine should not be allowed to idle for more than 20 minutes to prevent damage.

CaRT rules mean that you should not charge in gear so I never charge at idle, always at a minimum of 1000 rpm. When static charging I set the revs to give the maximum charge on the ammeter. As the charge drops I gradually reduce the revs to maintain whatever charging current is the maximum but never drop below the 1000rpm. I strive to stick to teh API spec of the oil recommended by the engine manufacturer but unless you want to pay silly prices for oil in a tin its hard. However I have just bought some 15W40 API CF which I will happily use in my engine (CC recommended by Bukh). Whenever responsibly possible I always take the opportunity to give the engine a bit of a thrashing to get its internals as hot as possible.. I have been doing this for a number of years and so far no signs of glazing.

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