ronnietucker

So, in short, it's pretty much impossible to keep the humidity within the 'safe zone' of about 30-60%?

Even with windows open a crack, and a small dehumidifier, I'm still getting humidity levels of 70+. How do you fine folks lower the humidity on your narrowboats? Especially in the winter.

Yeah, in one of his recent videos he was advertising watches. Didn't he moan about not making enough money from YouTube and move to a pay only site for his videos?

I use this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L89RRFP It's 240V but doesn't use much power at all. The clothes are pretty much dry when they come out of the spinner. It's a gravity feed for the water draining out. I have it on a little platform at the back of the boat with the drain tube going out and overboard.

There are only a few places near me, so I don't want my exact location on the internet. 😄

Two doors. Each door will have (top to bottom) a large panel, a small panel, a large panel. All three surrounded with a nice wood. Here's one of the large panels:

Right, you can't say you don't know where the mailbox is now postie! 😄

I have a couple of wireless, battery powered, cameras on the mooring which link to my phone via WiFi. At any time I can open the app and view the camera(s). Those would do for your boat. No wires or issue of where to plug it in. USB rechargeable. You can use them as view only (ie: it doesn't record anything) or you can record to a storage card and/or send the footage to the cloud. for extra security. Using the app you can turn on/off the light that's on the front of the camera and even use it as a walkie-talkie of sorts. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08HHVRM32/ £40

A couple of flower trays I painted up. Just need to get another 3 for the other side of the boat.

^--- this My isolation switch had a problem which gave me no 240v. Needed to get the switch replaced.

This time using the proper Craftmaster enamel paint. Muuuch better. 🙂

I find the hardest thing is to find decent paint with good coverage. Yeah I'm definitely thinking of painting it on good boards first then surrounding it with nice wooden frames.

Might need to add some thistles... 😄

I don't think I can get anywhere to put the meter on the unit without taking it apart??

Yep. Checked the cable into the unit. Previous owner/fitter has it going to a plug socket. Yes, socket is working, and the plug fuse is good.

The manuals for the 3010 are just basic stuff. Even the service manual I found for it was a bit sketchy. Tried phoning alde today but they're shut (for the holidays I assume). Oh well.

The unit does seem to work otherwise. I can select to heat with gas and that works. I can turn it on (12v as 240v isn't recognised) and that works (but doesn't have enough oomph to heat). I can hear things turning on and off.

Nice! I did mine slightly differently. I drilled a hole into the window frame to about 5mm deep. Maybe 9 holes around the window. Glued magnets into the holes. Made a little ledge on the bottom of the frame for the perspex to sit on. Put the perspex against the window frame and use more magnets to hold the perspex in place. Makes it easy to take the perspex off for storage in the summer. It's not perfect, but it's a LOT better with the perspex on. Good luck!

Bit of a weird one this... I've got an Alde Compact 3010 central heating system and everything was fine until a few days ago. Suddenly the 240V icon isn't showing on the panel, so it's running off 12v and not heating. Eventually, I managed to find the power for the 3010 unit and power it off and on. Voila! The 240v icon reappeared and I thought all was good. Nope. Tried the central heating and initially it worked fine and I could feel the radiators heating up. After a while the 240v icon went out and the central heating radiators of course went cold. Ah, I'll just power it off an on again. Nope. No 240v icon this time. Checked the two fuses in the top panel of the unit and they're fine. Even unplugged and plugged the panel just to reboot it. Still no 240v icon. Any ideas for what else I could check? The unit is definitely getting 240v. Checked the cable with a non-contact meter and it's definitely live.

Took a 12V feed from an existing light and fitted a 12V extractor fan (with LED lights) into the mushroom vent. Works pretty well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264787240069

Can't remember where I got this, but maybe it's the temperature sensor??

Stripped me naked in the next photo. 😄

I can vouch for this stuff being good. I didn't have a buffer so this was done by hand.

Just to update this: had someone out to have a look and it definitely seemed to be air in the cooling system. While the guy was working on it the temperature was going up. The guy had to put a lot more water in and there was a fair bit of air bubbling out while he was working on it. Haven't taken it on a run yet, but once the air was out the engine was running for a solid half hour and the temperature sat in the mid-70's. I think I'm good. Fingers crossed! Thanks to everyone for the advice.