Chewbacka Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Just an idea = Put a couple of ice packs on the roof every night to get nice and cold and pop them in the cool box during the day. Obviously works best if it's frosty :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Just an idea = Put a couple of ice packs on the roof every night to get nice and cold and pop them in the cool box during the day. Obviously works best if it's frosty :-) Like not this week where its been 16 deg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magictime Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Just an idea = Put a couple of ice packs on the roof every night to get nice and cold and pop them in the cool box during the day. Obviously works best if it's frosty :-) I like that. Sort of like one of those "solar showers" in reverse - the black bags you fill with water and leave out in the sun to warm up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pearley Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 (edited) Many fridges do not operate with a thermostat. The temperature control is just a timer thing - turn it up and it runs for more of the time. So if installed somehere that is 15 degrees below what it is designed for, it will possibly get too cold (i.e. freeze the contents). Certainly not on our Shoreline fridge/freezer. The replacement I bought is identical to the mechanical thermostats we used when installing vehicle air conditioning systems, other than the calibration of course. Edited November 11, 2015 by pearley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoat Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 I can understand a timer type device in a Hall effect device - which are pretty crude anyway.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 I am not convinced that my LEC 240 volt fridge has a stat, mainly because I couldn't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dor Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Certainly not on our Shoreline fridge/freezer. The replacement I bought is identical to the mechanical thermostats we used when installing vehicle air conditioning systems, other than the calibration of course. Fridge Freezersd are different. This is why when they are installed in a garage etc., the freezer doesn't get down to temperature because the 'stat is in the fridge part. They are designed to run in a normally heated house. More expensive ones may have an override stat in the freezer, deeming it better to keep the freezer at the right temperature and risk freezing some of the fridge contents rather than let the freezer get too warm. Many people have tried to claim their fridge freezer is faulty when in fact it has not been installed as stated by the manufacturer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuthound Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Fridge Freezersd are different. This is why when they are installed in a garage etc., the freezer doesn't get down to temperature because the 'stat is in the fridge part. They are designed to run in a normally heated house. More expensive ones may have an override stat in the freezer, deeming it better to keep the freezer at the right temperature and risk freezing some of the fridge contents rather than let the freezer get too warm. Many people have tried to claim their fridge freezer is faulty when in fact it has not been installed as stated by the manufacturer. Indeed. Some manufacturers specify that their freezers can be used in a garage or outhouse. I have a Beko, that specifically states it can be used in an unheated garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailor0500 Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Turn it off. I have lived aboard in France for many years and a fridge isnt neccessary. Buy fresh food every day. Keep perishables cool in the bilge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodstock Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 What diameter is the cabling to your fridge. Ours was so thin it looked like speaker wire- since the OH rewired it with 10mm cable the fridge has lasted much longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Ambrose Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Turn it off. I have lived aboard in France for many years and a fridge isnt neccessary. Buy fresh food every day. Keep perishables cool in the bilge. Fine if you have easy access to shops, however I'm afraid you would starve to death in The FensPhil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Turn it off. I have lived aboard in France for many years and a fridge isnt neccessary. Buy fresh food every day. Keep perishables cool in the bilge. And what about your beer? Warm beer? It never fails to make me smile the lengths that some of you narrowboatists go too. And you claim that us cruiser owners are slumming it or camping I'm looking forward to a nice cold beer from NC's cold fridge tomorrow evening Turning fridges off, whatever next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) And what about your beer? Warm beer? It never fails to make me smile the lengths that some of you narrowboatists go too. And you claim that us cruiser owners are slumming it or camping I'm looking forward to a nice cold beer from NC's cold fridge tomorrow evening Turning fridges off, whatever next? The correct temperature to drink beer is 12 degrees C. L*ger, on the other hand, needs to be drunk cold as it's an inadequate substitute for the Real Thing, only to be consumed by people who are desperate for alcohol or scared of tasting something. Edited November 12, 2015 by Mike the Boilerman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Sorry can't stomach warm beer if any description. It has to be cold, even Guiness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Sorry can't stomach warm beer if any description. It has to be cold, even Guiness. I suppose if you drink only l*ger or Guiness you'd need your mouth anaesthetising... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 And what about your beer? Warm beer? It never fails to make me smile the lengths that some of you narrowboatists go too. And you claim that us cruiser owners are slumming it or camping I'm looking forward to a nice cold beer from NC's cold fridge tomorrow evening Turning fridges off, whatever next? And who has knackered batteries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 And who has knackered batteries Not us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuthound Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 The correct temperature to drink beer is 12 degrees C. L*ger, on the other hand, needs to be drunk cold as it's an inadequate substitute for the Real Thing, only to be consumed by people who are desperate for alcohol or scared of tasting something. I used to have a T-shirt with that image on it (wonders what happened to it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennie Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 What diameter is the cabling to your fridge. Ours was so thin it looked like speaker wire- since the OH rewired it with 10mm cable the fridge has lasted much longer. not sure but I'm planning on rewiring it this winter because it doesn't have an isolation. I was planning on just turning it off for the winter as people have suggested but then realised the only way to turn it off is to unwire it as there isn't a plug or isolate all the 12v at the batteries which is just silly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FidoDido Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 not sure but I'm planning on rewiring it this winter because it doesn't have an isolation. I was planning on just turning it off for the winter as people have suggested but then realised the only way to turn it off is to unwire it as there isn't a plug or isolate all the 12v at the batteries which is just silly There not one of these somewhere... If not, worth putting one in... switches with circuit breakers (better than fuses) - I'd be surprised if everything was wired direct to the batteries, as I don't think it would have passed a BSS without something like the above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 There not one of these somewhere... If not, worth putting one in... switches with circuit breakers (better than fuses) - I'd be surprised if everything was wired direct to the batteries, as I don't think it would have passed a BSS without something like the above. They are not recommended for the supply to a low voltage refrigerator . Fuses are considered to be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FidoDido Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 They are not recommended for the supply to a low voltage refrigerator . Fuses are considered to be better. Ta for the info.. Can I ask why? (As my fridge, and everything else on the boat is switched through a similar panel). I could add an in-line fuse to the fridge if its sensible (pulls approx 4.5A when cooling). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoat Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 I hesitate to say this (so many replies start with 'it's never happened to me') However, I suspect it may be due to the much higher-than-running current draw that happens when the compressor starts. I put a 15 amp circuit breaker in my panel and (it's never given me any problems). OTOH I do have a 300W pure sine wave inverter and that regularly tripped its breaker at startup. Remember the circuit protection is to protect the wiring - not the appliance. I've no idea whether that's the correct answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snappyfish Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 So as I'm new to this world and reading lots of posts can someone tell me more, it seems your all worried about the fridge using battery power? Are you moored up and not travelling about with no electric power hook up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Ta for the info.. Can I ask why? (As my fridge, and everything else on the boat is switched through a similar panel). I could add an in-line fuse to the fridge if its sensible (pulls approx 4.5A when cooling). I think it is to minimise volt drop on start up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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