junior Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 This sounds exactly like my afternoon, albeit with 60l of water I've removed so far with a mop and bucket. Like you I'm fairly sure the pipes aren't to blame having done similar tests. I'll be taking another look tomorrow to see if there's any more. The idea about overfilling the water tank is an interesting one as it fits with the time-scale, although I've never noticed this in the past. The water I've been taking out is dark brown, either canal coloured or rusty bilge type water, I can't decide. If the leak has stopped and I can no longer get any more out with the mop, would anyone recommend using a dehumidifier? The only issue I can think of is they need to be run constantly and probably require a fair amount of power. I had to get rid of some unwanted water recently. I bought some cheap disposable nappies from Sainsbury, they were about £1.50 for 20. I chucked about 10 in the bilge and pulled them out the next day. Hey presto, all the water was gone! You might find it a bit difficult if you don't have kids though. I couldn't get the thought of dirty babies nappies out of my head and it was making me wretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 .............. I couldn't get the thought of dirty babies nappies ..... Or - "babies dirty nappies" and the one that always amuses : "For sale - Table by lady with Queen Anne legs" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayalld Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 OK some possible progress. I re-visited the water pump with a good torch and there is dampness around and under it. Feeling with my hand, the chipboard plinth it rests on is saturated. I tried running it for a few minutes expecting to see some more water but not so. Anyway, even if it isn't the only cause of the water in the bilge it needs sorting. When water pumps leak do they tend to do so only when running, or could they leak all the time? I know I haven't stated the model but in general, are they an expensive item to replace? If they leak, it will be all the time. You can get a reasonable new pump for about 60 quid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higgs Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 (edited) When water pumps leak do they tend to do so only when running, or could they leak all the time? I know I haven't stated the model but in general, are they an expensive item to replace? They're as likely to leak when not being used. However, the output side of the pump is usually pressurised and this could cause more leaking when pressurised. I have a minor leak with my pump and until I fix it I won't let the system pressurise fully. It doesn't stop the leak and only reduces it. Edited December 24, 2013 by Higgs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricco1 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 I'm thinking of ruling in (or out) my water system by adding a dye to it. I could flush most of it through afterwards but of course, it should be edible. Anyone know anything suitable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dor Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 cochineal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonesthenuke Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 If you want dye there are commercial products, try "drain tracing dye" from BES ltd or any good plumbing stockist. Do not use much though, its normally for large volumes. The dye of choice used to be Fluorescein which can be best traced with a UV lamp so more sensitive on small leaks, buts its out of favour these days. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bettie Boo Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 Would food coloring work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Marshall Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 My water pump (shurflo) started leaking a while back and I didn't notice until I happened to check under the floorboards - I'd lifted the carpet for some reason and found the floorboards sodden underneath. There was no sign of a leak from the pump but it was obviously a slow drip, I think from the gasket, and only when running. Only way to tell was that there simply wasn't anywhere else the water had come from unless I had a leak under the waterline, in which case I suspect thre would have been a LOT more water. I read somewhere after that there had been a bad batch of Shurflo's which had a tendency to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 Its a good idea to mount water pumps and their connections in a tray to catch any leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 This sounds exactly like my afternoon, albeit with 60l of water I've removed so far with a mop and bucket. Like you I'm fairly sure the pipes aren't to blame having done similar tests. I'll be taking another look tomorrow to see if there's any more. The idea about overfilling the water tank is an interesting one as it fits with the time-scale, although I've never noticed this in the past. The water I've been taking out is dark brown, either canal coloured or rusty bilge type water, I can't decide. If the leak has stopped and I can no longer get any more out with the mop, would anyone recommend using a dehumidifier? The only issue I can think of is they need to be run constantly and probably require a fair amount of power. That's a bit worrying. Does your boat have a cassette or a pump-out bog? A rusty pump-out tank is the most likely source of dark brown 'water'. MtB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenevers Posted December 25, 2013 Report Share Posted December 25, 2013 Sounds like condensation to me. Does anyone else notice this problem when the weather gets cold? My bilge is bone dry in Summer but I've noticed water collects in Winter. I mop it up by leaving bath towels down and swapping them over daily. Trouble is I Waxoyled the whole bilge years ago but damp got under it and trapped the water between the layer of Waxoyl and the base plate. Result rust!! Have often thought of applying diesel to bilge area in Summer so that it can penetrate into the rust and form a waterproof barrier for the future. What do others think of that idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Williamson 1955 Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 Trouble is I Waxoyled the whole bilge years ago but damp got under it and trapped the water between the layer of Waxoyl and the base plate. Result rust!! Have often thought of applying diesel to bilge area in Summer so that it can penetrate into the rust and form a waterproof barrier for the future. What do others think of that idea? Not a good one. Diesel will creep all over the place, it'll stink for weeks after it's applied, and when you do pump any water out of the bilge, it'll give that lovely rainbow film on the water for miles around. If you can get it dry and clear of any old paint, then something like Galvafroid will give a corrosion resistant coating which is, to a degree, self healing, a bit like having a lot of very small anodes inside the hull. Otherwise, get it bone dry by applying dry heat from something like a fan heater, and apply another coat of whatever's already there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStringPudding Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 That's a bit worrying. Does your boat have a cassette or a pump-out bog? A rusty pump-out tank is the most likely source of dark brown 'water'. MtB I think he'd know by the smell of the water if it had come from the toilet tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) If you want dye there are commercial products, try "drain tracing dye" from BES ltd or any good plumbing stockist. Do not use much though, its normally for large volumes. The dye of choice used to be Fluorescein which can be best traced with a UV lamp so more sensitive on small leaks, buts its out of favour these days. Chris Is that favour of flavor :-) Edit as I lost my smillie cochineal? The missus had a devil of a job getting red dye for decorating the Christmas cake. Loads of green available Edited December 26, 2013 by ditchcrawler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 I think he'd know by the smell of the water if it had come from the toilet tank. Good point! I'm trying hard to not imagine what it would smell like.... MtB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStringPudding Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 I feel my forum calling is in toilet-related threads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliemcsnarly Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 IMO condensation can create a lot of water in the cabin bilge. I noticed in coldest weather when stove is hottest, a fair few litres a week that I was pumping out with oil extractor. This water wasn't there when we go away or in summer. We also had water seeping in thru bow bilge partition when it gets too high. I have now fitted bilge pumps in all parts, not automatic ones, but at least its easy to remove now I wud say one is better off trying to control the flow of water than prevent it altogether Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 13 minutes ago, charliemcsnarly said: IMO condensation can create a lot of water in the cabin bilge. I noticed in coldest weather when stove is hottest, a fair few litres a week that I was pumping out with oil extractor. This water wasn't there when we go away or in summer. We also had water seeping in thru bow bilge partition when it gets too high. I have now fitted bilge pumps in all parts, not automatic ones, but at least its easy to remove now I wud say one is better off trying to control the flow of water than prevent it altogether I guess by now (4 years later) the OP has sorted the problem or sunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurie Booth Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 On 12/19/2013 at 19:26, DeanS said: Perhaps consider putting in an automatic pump which is float activated. (£20 on Ebay). No more paranoia I've been advised against putting in an automatic pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Riley Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 A way to find small leaks, use when doing plumbing etc, is to use a bit of dry kitchen towel/bog roll, the slightest drip shows up as a damp patch on the paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliemcsnarly Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 6 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said: I guess by now (4 years later) the OP has sorted the problem or sunk. Haha maybe so but people ( like me) still find these threads useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Thornton Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 Having spent a week or so mopping up our bilge, this is very useful! Hadn’t considered condensation, or overful water tank. we have another possibility, out front cockpit is below water level and drained by a channel to the rear bilge. (It’s an “S” series Pat Buckle Ownerships boat) so that sounds like three separate sources of water! and one other point, if the access hatch is at the back and to one side (as in our case) then the attitude of the boat matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Marshall Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 37 minutes ago, Peter Thornton said: Having spent a week or so mopping up our bilge, this is very useful! Hadn’t considered condensation, or overful water tank. we have another possibility, out front cockpit is below water level and drained by a channel to the rear bilge. (It’s an “S” series Pat Buckle Ownerships boat) so that sounds like three separate sources of water! and one other point, if the access hatch is at the back and to one side (as in our case) then the attitude of the boat matters. Mine was like that. It sank one Christmas when I had the flu and the automatic bilge pump failed (as did the next one when it was needed). I welded up the channel and raised the front deck above the waterline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Thornton Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 2 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said: Mine was like that. It sank one Christmas when I had the flu and the automatic bilge pump failed (as did the next one when it was needed). I welded up the channel and raised the front deck above the waterline. Ouch! Was it an ex Ownerships one? How big a job was the conversion? I guess you would have had to remake your front doors and also provide new steps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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