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Everything posted by jonesthenuke

  1. I suggest you measure the voltage at the lamps, one bright one and one dim. I suspect the dim one will be lower voltage due to a poor contact (joint or switch) in that part of the circuit.
  2. I wondered if that had sold. IIRC it has train tracks close by? The pub is good though.
  3. For threaded connections where a washer is not the appropriate solution, I find PTFE tape unreliable (and rather second rate) in comparison to a modern thread sealant such as those from Loctite or the generic equivalent such as FLOMASTA THREAD SEAL from Screwfix (currently £5.99). Once I started using these products I have never gone back to PTFE tape as I find the liquid sealants to be very reliable and effective. If a washer is required, e.g. on parallel plugs into parallel threaded holes, bonded rubber seals are best (Dowty washers) For really difficult situations with iron pipes, larger gaps etc, Boss White and hemp can still be a good solution, but its messy.
  4. The directional issue is irrelevant if the leakage is via the stem. Your new valve will work fine and probably last years.
  5. I am afraid you get what you pay for. Ball valves have become very common due to low price, small size etc etc. Many ball valves are made as cheaply as possible and in consequence they are not without problems. I have had several leak from the stem seal following use once they have been left in one position for a long time (generally years). These were of the lever handle "better" ones as supplied by Screwfix, see post above. There are valves which have adjustable seals, and thee give tyou a chance of resolving steam leakage but they are more expensive. The valves made by Pegler have a good reputation, but I have not used them enough to warrant a recommendation The traditional gate valves aways had adjustable stem seals and would allow adjustment or even repacking, but it comes with higher cost, greater size etc.
  6. We had our boat blasted and epoxy coated. We took it to a dry dock to get new anodes fitted 4 years later (and other work) The man running the dock pressure washed the hull for us and was so surprised at the excellent condition of the hull that he was inviting other boat owners to have a look. Yes you get minor scrape areas to repair, but the vast majority was pristine. I consider this to be worthwhile given extended inspection periods and greatly reduced hull corrosion.
  7. As well as having a route, consider the heating required on a boat in winter for 3 months, especially as you could get iced in (though probably less likely with global warming). A solid fuel stove and plenty of smokeless coal would be good. If no solid fuel stove you may use a lot of gas, so consider where you will be able to buy refills. A trolley to collect fuel/gas would be useful. Also check routes of fuel boats for diesel, gas coal etc. Apologies if this is all obvious to you.
  8. I suggest checking what the immersion and the Eberspacher thermostats are set to. With a new boat you are reliant on them being set correctly during installation rather than fitted with whatever setting was left after manufacture.
  9. We have one of those works fine, but look at the price. When/if ours fails I will try a cheap solar pump.
  10. Have just found the details of our prop. 3LW, PRM500 with 1.5:1 ratio. The prop is 22 by 17. This works fine, though I would prefer a slower tickover speed when passing other boats.
  11. Gardner Marine quoted me 1500 pounds recently for a pump and cambox overhaul, a rather eye watering price ! There are cheaper places to go. Why are you opting to have this done when the issue may well be elsewhere? Is there another problem with the engine? The earlier post suggested the engine was responding OK. An optical tacho would confirm this.
  12. The engine may be responsive but does it run at full speed when demanded? It will be about 1500RPM but check the injection pump. Buy a cheap optical tacho and check Is is possible that the gearbox is slipping? Has it got enough oil in it? As its a PRM 500 has it got a trolling valve (I believe these are an option) Is everything else in the drive train properly secure and definitely not slipping? I ask this as the boat has only recently been launched and you may be looking for that kind of defect.
  13. We have a 57 foot boat with the same engine and IIRC a similar prop, but a 1.5 ratio box. If anything this makes the boat faster on tickover than I would like. Before altering the prop, are you getting the correct speed range from the engine? Is the current prop ok (not damaged or fouled).
  14. I refill the filter for our Dometic Vacuflush with activated carbon granules normally used in cooker hood filters. It works fine and costs peanuts in comparison to OEM price.
  15. The pools now have plenty of depth. The stretch of canal leading to is prone to being full of rubbish but we got into the pools in May this year with a draught of 2 feet 9 so you should be ok. I would not moor in the pools, the edges are probably too shallow and its not a great place for staying. I would moor at the pumphouse at the top of the locks, though its a bit noisy.
  16. I like the BCN, but the rubbish in the water makes it less easy for a novice? I am thinking of the less used sections by the way.
  17. We have two very small black accumulators on the top of the gearbox. My understanding is that it is an original PRM part. The boat was built about 2005.
  18. We have a Gardner 3LW with PRM 500 plus the soft shift unit. Gear engagement is almost unnoticeable.
  19. Wash in diesel and then get the last crud off with carb cleaner.
  20. Not sure of the brand as I am not where I store it, I suspect its a generic Chinese job. They are on EBay as a "concrete grinder".
  21. Scrabblers are not hugely expensive to buy, look on Ebay. I would suggest buying one then selling it as second hand after the work is complete. Probably cheaper than hiring one. I have one of these and its great at removing paint. attach it to a wet and dry vac and it removes a lot of the mess as you go.
  22. Search on the web for a 1/8" BSP helicoil kit, you will find lots. However, you need to be sure that the sender is BSP (Imperial) and not NPT (American). If you get a kit it should have the right size drill and the installation tool.
  23. If it was a house I would fit one of these (or similar) but it seems OTT for a boat. I stole this from a supplier's web page, there are lots of other makers and suppliers. This gives up to 52 litre/min at up to 40m head. To plumb it in I would add a non return valve on the discharge of each pump to preclude back flow. Draper Surface Mounted And Booster Pumps Draper BP2A 53L/Min 800W Stainless Steel Body Booster Pump - 31561Stainless steel bodied pump for home and garden water supplies. Automatic cut-off switch and 20L expansion tank ensure continuity of water pressure. Fitted with non-return valve and double insulated impeller providing a quiet and efficient performance. S Specification: Flow rate up to 53 litres/min Maximum head 40m 800 watt, 230v motor Output aperture diameter - 25mm Hose adaptor diameter - 25mm
  24. Did you watch the coating being applied, there may be clues for the degradation? For example, how soon was the coating applied after blasting (it should be immediate so that no surface rusting starts). What was the surface condition? What was the temperature (of the steel and ambient). I have seen vlogs of people showing their boat being 2 packed and the application was less that ideal.
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