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Towing


unscarred

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(Have searched on the forum using the forum search and google but can't find owt. If it has been discussed before and anyone has a link please let me know.)

 

We're now living across two boats (one 57ft and one 45ft), to save the time and effort of moving one then walking back and moving the other I want to the tow the 45ft one.

 

I've not towed anything before so before I just hitch it up and have a go any do's, don'ts or general advice would be welcome.

 

Cheers,

Matt.

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Towing a motor is not ideal and you may well find yourself crabbing along, for much of the time.

 

If the T-stud of the tow is significantly higher than the dollies of the tug then cross straps can be used, keeping the tow close to the stern of the tug.

 

I've always found towing motors to be a tedious experience so I woud recommend breasting up, as often as possible.

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I had a go (in good samaritan capacity, otherwise I don't think I'd have tried it voluntarily) at towing a stranded boat through Birmingham. Our problem was that the towed boat doesn't have any pressure on the rudder and is at the mercy of crosswinds. I imagine this is why unpowered buttys, which are designed for towing, have bigger rudders and profiled arses. I would want a nice wide canal with no moored boats before I tried it again.

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(Have searched on the forum using the forum search and google but can't find owt. If it has been discussed before and anyone has a link please let me know.)

 

We're now living across two boats (one 57ft and one 45ft), to save the time and effort of moving one then walking back and moving the other I want to the tow the 45ft one.

 

I've not towed anything before so before I just hitch it up and have a go any do's, don'ts or general advice would be welcome.

 

Cheers,

Matt.

Please check your insurance, mine won't let me tow.

:lol:

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Towing a motor boat is quicker and easier on a long line. It does require someone to be on the second boat, who also has to remember that steering is reduced so has to turn earlier and further.

 

Of course, no breaks, and reduced control means taking more account of the prevailing conditions. However going faster to aid steering is a good thing where visability is suitable - long straights etc...

 

Mike

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The same if you rent a holiday boat.

:lol:

 

Yes but that is understandable and often not adhered to.

 

We broke down on a hire boat on the Norfolk Broads in the middle of nowhere, the hire companies advice was to flag down a passing boat and get a tow to Great Yarmouth. :lol:

 

I didnt think it applied to private boat insurance policies.

 

Just found the relevant bits in our policy

 

We will not pay for any claims arising from:

 

19: the Vessel undertaking towage or salvage

services under a pre-arranged contract.

However, the Vessel may assist or tow vessels

in distress.

Edited by Phylis
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Yes but that is understandable and often not adhered to.

 

We broke down on a hire boat on the Norfolk Broads in the middle of nowhere, the hire companies advice was to flag down a passing boat and get a tow to Great Yarmouth. :lol:

 

I didnt think it applied to private boat insurance policies.

 

Just found the relevant bits in our policy

 

We will not pay for any claims arising from:

 

19: the Vessel undertaking towage or salvage

services under a pre-arranged contract.

However, the Vessel may assist or tow vessels

in distress.

 

I have know the back ends of wooden hire boats to be pulled out trying to tow someone on the broads, the deck and cleats had better fixings than the transoms. I think you will find most insurance policies are like yours. The last time I towed a boat was on the Thames at Oxford, it was on of Salters plastic trip boats that was hard aground after dropping some one off. I was very concerned that I might pull a cleat off.

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Cheers for all the replies, lots of food for thought. Might just man up and stick to shifting one at a time till we're somewhere wider and quiet to have a go.

 

Will check insurance as well...

 

Matt.

Well, you might as well have a go; if it doesn't work you haven't lost anything.

I can't really give any hints as to how as I'm useless at explaining things, but Warrior has successfully towed Lucky Duck both breasted up and on cross straps - the latter was a little exciting going downstream on a fast flowing river but only because one of them worked loose. I also participated in towing Chertsey on cross straps with another large Woolwich and given I was a complete novice found it not as hard as I expected. I would say though that it would pay to get someone with experience to show you how to do the cross straps (better to make up some spliced ones than keep untying and retying) and indeed, whether it's a suitable method for your boat.

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Fwiw if your not aware what cross straps are and want to tow is close up, two short ropes from the t'stud on the front of the towed boat, crossed over round the front of the boat (why it needs to be high enough) one each onto the dollys at the back of the motor (towing boat).

 

Daniel

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Splice up a pair of equal length cross straps from thick rope, the thicker the better, 2" diameter is good. Make them as short as possible , they will stretch. For the best control the tow should ride on or very very close to the motor's fenders. You will not normally need a steerer on the tow- I have towed boats for many miles without a rudder let alone a steerer. Do not try to tow out of narrow locks on cross straps the tow will become cross winded. Keep a short snubber for this or tow out on one cross strap. Sod's law ensures that you will choose the wrong strap and have to change over which can be fun with the tow half way out of the lock and the front end of the motor drifting around as you concentrate on changing straps. Do not expect high speeds when towing motors but the bouyancy of the front end of the tow will hold up the motor and stop the back end digging in so you will be able to use a few more revs; the tow will also kill the wash. Regards, HughC.

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Not that I am intending to take anybody to the cleaners (I'm too nice for that), but I was wondereing what are the rules regarding salvage rights if you tow somebody in trouble.

 

I mikght be in trouble myself one day and have no nice CWF forum member to assist

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Not that I am intending to take anybody to the cleaners (I'm too nice for that), but I was wondereing what are the rules regarding salvage rights if you tow somebody in trouble.

 

I mikght be in trouble myself one day and have no nice CWF forum member to assist

 

 

This isn't the high seas or international waters you know.

 

Richard

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Splice up a pair of equal length cross straps from thick rope, the thicker the better, 2" diameter is good. Make them as short as possible , they will stretch. For the best control the tow should ride on or very very close to the motor's fenders. You will not normally need a steerer on the tow- I have towed boats for many miles without a rudder let alone a steerer. Do not try to tow out of narrow locks on cross straps the tow will become cross winded. Keep a short snubber for this or tow out on one cross strap. Sod's law ensures that you will choose the wrong strap and have to change over which can be fun with the tow half way out of the lock and the front end of the motor drifting around as you concentrate on changing straps. Do not expect high speeds when towing motors but the bouyancy of the front end of the tow will hold up the motor and stop the back end digging in so you will be able to use a few more revs; the tow will also kill the wash. Regards, HughC.

 

Well apart from the fact that your reply full of unexplained jargon will go right over the head of any inexperienced boater, I need to pull you up on a couple of points.

 

2" rope? Not something likely just to be lying around, in fact outside of a specialist supplier I would think you'd have a bit of trouble sourcing 4 metres of 2" rope. My straps are made of standard 18mm polyprop and are treated as disposable items - they will fray.

 

The tow should not ride on the motor boat fenders. Apart from the fact that you won't get the straps on if the tow is this tight then the lack of articulation will make steering very difficult indeed. I quite like my tow close up (about 1 or 2 feet) but i know people who prefer to tow with 4-5' gap as it makes the problem of diverting the prop wash, and turning, much easier.

 

If you have 2 straps (as opposed to one strap with 2 'tails') then there is no wrong one to pick up first.

 

However I agree I don't normally need anyone steering the tow as it tends to 'come along' (Coot Club anyone?) and if does hit something in high winds it's a glancing blow. Doesn't stop the numpties moaning mind.

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Yes but that is understandable and often not adhered to.

 

We broke down on a hire boat on the Norfolk Broads in the middle of nowhere, the hire companies advice was to flag down a passing boat and get a tow to Great Yarmouth. :lol:

 

I didnt think it applied to private boat insurance policies.

 

Just found the relevant bits in our policy

 

We will not pay for any claims arising from:

 

19: the Vessel undertaking towage or salvage

services under a pre-arranged contract.

However, the Vessel may assist or tow vessels

in distress.

I meant the hire boat not towing, not being towed.

:lol:

What do your insurers mean by "Vessels in distress"

They might not think that a broken down narrowboat moored is in distress.

:lol:

I have towed boats and ignored my insurance policy.

:lol:

Edited by Laurie.Booth
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