Coventry Victor single cylinder diesel

[truckcab79]

12 minutes ago, magnetman said:

Thats good. 

 

That engine will be fine. If it is too loud get a silencer box in the exhaust pipe..

 

 

And probably worth disconnecting all the cooling pipes and running everything through with a hose to clear the crud. If it did 10-5 then its not a problematic engine just needs some sorting out. It would have overheated much quicker than that if there was anything badly wrong. 

 

 

 

That's a dry exhaust with no silencer. I think you could fit a small silencer on there with a bit of work and it would make a massive difference to the noise levels. Maybe a scooter silencer could be worth considering. 

 

 

Exactly.  Ran beautifully until it didn’t.  😂
 

It definitely has a silencer. I’ll photograph it tomorrow.  It’s top  right just out of frame on that pic.  

20 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

🤣    🤠   🤡   

God you’re dull  😂🥱

Edited October 7, 2023 by truckcab79

[magnetman]

When you say it is too noisy it sounds like it would upset the neighbours. Thats why I assumed no silencer.

 

Other possible cause of excessive noise is nackered engine mounts. If it is on rubber mounts they could be knocking through to the steel engine beds and causing a loud banging noise. 

[truckcab79]

7 minutes ago, magnetman said:

When you say it is too noisy it sounds like it would upset the neighbours. Thats why I assumed no silencer.

 

Other possible cause of excessive noise is nackered engine mounts. If it is on rubber mounts they could be knocking through to the steel engine beds and causing a loud banging noise. 

Sounds exactly like a classic engine knock but when I’ve watched a couple of videos on youtube of them running, they sound exactly the same.  
 

Exhausted’ noise is fine. It’s the engine bay thats loud.  
 

Could well be the mounts.  Another job for once were safely in the marina. Engine bay clean-up is first on the list.  Bilge clean, new bilge pump, de-rust, Vactan and paint.  

Edited October 7, 2023 by truckcab79

[magnetman]

With such a small engine you could get a general idea of the condition of the mounts by grabbing the top of the engine while running and lifting it slightly sideways. 

 

 

If it is the mounts you want to replace all 4 at the same time. 

[David Mack]

4 hours ago, truckcab79 said:

 

Oh and definitely not a weed or debris issue. Checked prop and clean as a whistl though we had been through an awful

lot of weed.  

Weed on the prop and weed blocking the cooling system are different issues.

[john.k]

Before overheating stops an engine ,Id expect coolant boiling,smoke coming from the oil filler/breather,and even seen paint on the head burn around the exhaust port ...........As to starting,there may well be a worn spot on the ring gear where the engine stops .....the pinion should catch if you turn the engine 1/4 turn...........With a rare engine ,it often possible to either reposition the flywheel on the crank,or failing that ,reverse the ring gear on the flywheel...........some ring gears are bolted on ,not shrunk.

[truckcab79]

5 hours ago, David Mack said:

Weed on the prop and weed blocking the cooling system are different issues.

How would weed block the cooling?  As fas as I can tell it’s a closed system, not taking water from the canal. At least I don’t think it is ??

1 hour ago, john.k said:

Before overheating stops an engine ,Id expect coolant boiling,smoke coming from the oil filler/breather,and even seen paint on the head burn around the exhaust port ...........As to starting,there may well be a worn spot on the ring gear where the engine stops .....the pinion should catch if you turn the engine 1/4 turn...........With a rare engine ,it often possible to either reposition the flywheel on the crank,or failing that ,reverse the ring gear on the flywheel...........some ring gears are bolted on ,not shrunk.

Cheers.  That’s what I’d been doing. From the sound of the starter sometimes it’s just spinning and sometimes it’s engaging on a worn ring gear. When we get it onto the marina I’ll get it apart and have a look, and bench test the starter.  
 

As for the cooling I suspect if it is that thats the issue then pump / impeller packed up or a blockage. No sign that it boiled, but then if it’s not circulating it won’t I’d imagine. Certainly header tank contents weren’t even hot so pretty sure that wasn’t being passed through the engine. .

[Tony Brooks]

Have you found the engine water pump yet? I can't see one in your photos and if it is a rubber impeller one then the impeller may need replacing.

[magnetman]

This would definitely explain why the engine overheated after running for several hours. If its a Jabsco type pump they are well known for shedding blades after long periods unused. The pieces of blade will be lodged somewhere in the pipework thus causing a blockage so even if it still has some blades it won't work well. 

 

 

 

 

On the other hand it is the type of engine which might have its own sp

ecial circulation pump rather than using an add-on like a Jabsco or a Johnson. 

[Tony Brooks]

24 minutes ago, magnetman said:

n the other hand it is the type of engine which might have its own sp

ecial circulation pump rather than using an add-on like a Jabsco or a Johnson. 

 

That is why I want the OP to find it. If it is a piston pump with valves, then rust from the skin tank may be jambing the valves.

[agg221]

A couple of thoughts.

 

 If you grab the top of the engine (not running) and push/pull it back and forth, side to side and on bothe the diagonals then if you feel it moving in any of those directions it is loose on the engine mounts. It could have rubber mounts or be bolted solid to the bed. If the latter it is easy to tighten it up and will make a big difference. Otherwise it’s new rubber mounts. If it is currently mounted solid then adding rubber mounts would make it quieter but may need some work to adjust the height.

 

Starter not catching. This is unlikely to be an issue with the starter motor itself as it is spinning properly; more likely to be one of position. The engine will naturally come to rest against the compression stroke - one simple option is to manually rotate it back before starting (by hand using the flywheel). If you take it back as far as it will go before you get to compression then you will both be using a different spot on the flywheel and when it catches the engine will pick up a bit of speed before going over compression which will take a bit of load off the starter motor if you are not using the decompression valve for the same purpose.

 

Alec

 

 

 

 

[magnetman]

Looking at the picture it does seem to be rigid mounted. 

 

(engine foot to left of starter motor) 

 

If there are thin wooden blocks under the feet these could be nackered and need replacing. 

 

I think this kind of starter might occasionally spin and not engage. 

 

 

[truckcab79]

Cheers all.
Think I found the water pump but I’ll photograph it later. It doesn’t match the type that’s in the manual I have.  
 

Starter info - think I have a couple of issues.  Not engaging consistently and it falling in the same position on each stop as pointed out. Have been doing as suggested and moving the flywheel. Works every time.  Starts beautifully. 
 

Overheating - we went back to the boat early this morning.  Started first time as it generally does now I’ve got the process down to a fine art.    Let it warm a little. We didn’t have far to go. Pipework felt warm as if it was circulating. As in warmer than it could have got via radiated heat in that time.  As said I suspect you’re right with the blockage scenario.    
 

Set off with half the buffalo boards off to let it keep as cool as possible.  Only one lock and a total of maybe half a mile. Behaved flawlessly.

 

Arrived at the marina 😀😀👍👍.   
 

Moored up and we’re ‘home’

 

If you live there I’m sure we woke you up with our noisy arrival.  My apologies.  😂
 

Think engine is fine with some minor tinkering.   Don’t think it’s ever going to be quiet enough to be a relaxed cruise or usable in company though so I reckon we’ll end up swapping it out anyway.  Shame really. I will do the work on it regardless as someone will want it and I’ll be happier selling it to someone (preferably someone deaf), knowing that it’s a ‘good’ engine. 
 

For now we’re not planning on moving it for a while and we’ll concentrate on the interior refit.  👍
 

 

[john.k]

Proper running temp for an engine should be at least 160C.........this will burn your hand if touched for more than a few seconds ...medical burns...........if the engine is overheating ,the rocker cover will be higher than this ,and may boil water dripped on.

[Iain_S]

45 minutes ago, john.k said:

Proper running temp for an engine should be at least 160C.........this will burn your hand if touched for more than a few seconds ...medical burns...........if the engine is overheating ,the rocker cover will be higher than this ,and may boil water dripped on.

If an engine is designed for raw water cooling, running temp may be nearer 60C. (I assume you meant 160F, i.e. 80C!)

[magnetman]

Combustion chamber temperature will be a lot higher and some parts of the engine associated with this will be hotter than the coolant temperature. Probably best not to hold the head. 

 

I think he probably did mean Fahrenheit not Centigrade. 

 

 

 

All those yars ago before worry gauges engine makers like Kelvin used to have special paint for certain parts of the engine which would start to burn thus alerting the user to an cooling problem before it became critical. 

 

Eyes nose and ears are the best sensors ever developed. 

 

This is partly why I dislike the Tesla electric cars. They have a screen which shows you what is around the vehicle when you pull up in traffic. Oh there is a car behind and one in front! Amazing ! 

 

This is information you are already aware of due to your own sensors. 

 

 

 

It feeds the dumbing down and the basic degradation of humans in favour of machines. 

 

Inevitable but also a little unpalatable. 

Edited October 8, 2023 by magnetman

[MtB]

26 minutes ago, magnetman said:

It feeds the dumbing down and the basic degradation of humans in favour of machines. 

 

Inevitable but also a little unpalatable. 

 

Next thing we'll know is it'll be an MOT failure if the LCD screen doesn't work. 

 

Back in the day when I started driving, windscreen washers were a luxury accessory one fitted oneself with a kit from Unity Motors in Byfleet. (Or similar.) Most of the time they didn't work for any of many reasons. 

 

Years later, screen washers if fitted, MUST work! MoT fail otherwise! 

 

 

[Tracy D'arth]

1 hour ago, MtB said:

 

Next thing we'll know is it'll be an MOT failure if the LCD screen doesn't work. 

 

Back in the day when I started driving, windscreen washers were a luxury accessory one fitted oneself with a kit from Unity Motors in Byfleet. (Or similar.) Most of the time they didn't work for any of many reasons. 

 

Years later, screen washers if fitted, MUST work! MoT fail otherwise! 

 

 

Indeed, it is a moving traffic offence to not have them working, resulting in a fine and possible endorsement to the licence.

[truckcab79]

Just to not leave this thread hanging. Couple of pics of the exhaust to prove it exists. (And works well. That’s not the source of the din). 
 

And also what I think is the waterpump

 

[john.k]

Jabsco rubber impeller type pump ..........take off the cover and see if the impeller is still in one piece ......as mentioned,bits of rubber from the impeller can easily block coolant passages ............if these pumps run dry ,the rubber burns up and breaks.

[magnetman]

The deck boards have no drains. Get a decent cover over the back asap otherwise you will be fighting a major battle with the rain .

This explains why there is so much rust about in the engine bay. 

 

One option is to fix a rectangular thick tarp (I used ripstop cotton canvas) at an angle tensioned with trampoline springs or bits of bicycle innertube. If you can arrange it to drain the water over the back somehow it would be good. 

 

A full fitted cover is desirable but expensive. 

 

Another option depending on how the deck is arranged is to use a piece of that plastic floor protection stuff from Wickes and somehow get water to run overboard. 

 

 

 

 

[truckcab79]

7 hours ago, magnetman said:

The deck boards have no drains. Get a decent cover over the back asap otherwise you will be fighting a major battle with the rain .

This explains why there is so much rust about in the engine bay. 

 

One option is to fix a rectangular thick tarp (I used ripstop cotton canvas) at an angle tensioned with trampoline springs or bits of bicycle innertube. If you can arrange it to drain the water over the back somehow it would be good. 

 

A full fitted cover is desirable but expensive. 

 

Another option depending on how the deck is arranged is to use a piece of that plastic floor protection stuff from Wickes and somehow get water to run overboard. 

 

 

 

 

Proplex floor covering.  Know it well. In fact I’m standing  on some as I type. 😂  Use it all the time for work. Short term I’ll get a tarp and some clamps over it I think.  That will sort the majority. it’s got the fixings all in place for one in its past life so at least I’ve got those to tie to. 
 

 

 

I took note of a few manufacturers of tonneau covers while I was at the marina.  It’ll be like polishing a turd putting one on in the boats current condition but it’s the only way to go really.  Will need same for the front too. Front is tiny so will have a tonneau there also rather than a full cratch cover.   

Edited October 9, 2023 by truckcab79

[Tony Brooks]

I have seen people tie the boat pole to the tiller and lay it on the roof when putting tarps over the back deck, so rain is shed to the back and sides.

[truckcab79]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

I have seen people tie the boat pole to the tiller and lay it on the roof when putting tarps over the back deck, so rain is shed to the back and sides.

Good idea.  Though in the absence of a boat pole a bit of waste pipe will probably do the job.  👍

[cuthound]

On 09/10/2023 at 08:03, magnetman said:

The deck boards have no drains. Get a decent cover over the back asap otherwise you will be fighting a major battle with the rain .

This explains why there is so much rust about in the engine bay. 

 

One option is to fix a rectangular thick tarp (I used ripstop cotton canvas) at an angle tensioned with trampoline springs or bits of bicycle innertube. If you can arrange it to drain the water over the back somehow it would be good. 

 

A full fitted cover is desirable but expensive. 

 

Another option depending on how the deck is arranged is to use a piece of that plastic floor protection stuff from Wickes and somehow get water to run overboard. 

 

 

 

 

 

I recently passed a boat with lino covering the stern cruiser deck, presumably to keep the water out.

 

I had to look twice because it was a brick pattern and at first I thought they had laid a brick patio over the engine...