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Posted
1 minute ago, Kieron G said:

I run a Coventry Victor HDW in our boat. The twin cylinder engine. 

I chose to put it in as i wanted an affordable vintage engine. 

As mentioned before the alternator will be driven by a link belt from the back of the crankshaft which you make to size. 

Re starting and reliability,  ours is always a good starter using the dash pots and the decompressor with a small amount of throttle,  I spin the engine up to speed with the starter motor then let the decompressor go. Once warm it will start with a flick of the starter, no need to decompress, personally I never use easy start. 

I have seen  glow plugs tapped into the inlet on these but I haven't got that on the engine we run. 

For spare parts I've bought a couple of scrap engines off ebay very cheap, they do come up now and then. 

I had a few sets of head gaskets made by 'Gaskets to go' in Thailand, I sent a pattern over. They are excellent. 

Just changed leaking rear crank seal which I measured and sourced from 'simply bearings'. 

We take ours out on tidal Ouse and Trent so have complete faith in it, as long as the diesel is clean.

The Coventry Victor site is dead but useful for part numbers, I even visited the address in Chipping Norton I think but the place was empty. 

To sum up I think these engines are great, hope yours proves to be a good one. 


Ah.  Thank you very much.  That’s really useful.  We’d very much like to keep it if we can.  
 

I had wondered if anyone had fitted a glow-plug to the inlet as it happens.  
 

Aside  from collecting dead engines once you have the part numbers from that defunct site where are you then finding parts is anywhere?   
 

With the alternator are you just measuring the circumference between the two pulleys and finding appropriate on eBay or is there a reason you’re using link belts?  I use those on my lathe and they’re very handy but assumed I’d match up an appropriate rubber one for this once I’ve swapped the alternator.  

Posted
2 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:

With the alternator are you just measuring the circumference between the two pulleys and finding appropriate on eBay or is there a reason you’re using link belts?  

Do you not need to assemble the belt in situ?

Posted

We have to fit a link belt on ours as there is no way of getting a full belt in. Just use a piece of string then add a bit more for length, you take the links out that you don't need to get to get the correct size. They have a direction of travel, I think the thin edge of the wedge shape goes first from memory. 

 

Posted
8 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:

With the alternator are you just measuring the circumference between the two pulleys and finding appropriate on eBay or is there a reason you’re using link belts?

 

I think the reason link belts are often used it to actually get it on without disconnecting the prop shaft. 

 

 

  • Love 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:


Ah.  Thank you very much.  That’s really useful.  We’d very much like to keep it if we can.  
 

I had wondered if anyone had fitted a glow-plug to the inlet as it happens.  
 

Aside  from collecting dead engines once you have the part numbers from that defunct site where are you then finding parts is anywhere?   
 

With the alternator are you just measuring the circumference between the two pulleys and finding appropriate on eBay or is there a reason you’re using link belts?  I use those on my lathe and they’re very handy but assumed I’d match up an appropriate rubber one for this once I’ve swapped the alternator.  

I only mentioned part numbers as it was said before that some parts might fit more than one engine. I haven't needed to look into that myself

11 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Do you not need to assemble the belt in situ?

Yes, made in situ just long enough to fit over alternator pulley once made, feed it over the pulley rotating the engine by hand and then tension it with adjustment on alternator. 

 

  • Love 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Kieron G said:

I only mentioned part numbers as it was said before that some parts might fit more than one engine. I haven't needed to look into that myself

Yes, made in situ just long enough to fit over alternator pulley once made, feed it over the pulley rotating the engine by hand and then tension it with adjustment on alternator. 

 


Or just slacken alternator adjustment and re-tension.  Assuming you can access the engine side pulley of course. 

Edited by truckcab79
Posted

It seems odd that the 3 in WD3 does not refer to the number of cylinders. 

 

Presumably it means something like Watercooled Diesel Type 3. 

 

A lot of other engine makers used numbers in more obvious ways. 

 

 

 

Posted

Just to update I was hoping to get up to the marina in Hemel today to have a play with this but they currently have the starter off to refurbish / fix it.  I’ve made them aware what ‘new’ ones are available if they need to replace it (I’m sure they’ll be doing anything they can to avoid that at £450!). I’ve also sent them a copy of the service and start procedure manual for their mechanic to have a read up on.  
 

Shame as I was looking forward to giving the ideas on this thread a try for myself. Just want to get my hands on my boat now!😂

Posted
19 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:

Just to update I was hoping to get up to the marina in Hemel today to have a play with this but they currently have the starter off to refurbish / fix it.  I’ve made them aware what ‘new’ ones are available if they need to replace it (I’m sure they’ll be doing anything they can to avoid that at £450!). I’ve also sent them a copy of the service and start procedure manual for their mechanic to have a read up on.  
 

Shame as I was looking forward to giving the ideas on this thread a try for myself. Just want to get my hands on my boat now!😂

Are you paying for the work? Estimate?

Posted
2 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Are you paying for the work? Estimate?

As I’ve said a few times in various threads the contract for the boat purchase includes delivery and any work highlighted on the survey.  It also includes checking that the engine (and gearbox and steering), are functioning correctly. Engine was advertised as ‘in good running order’ so that is what they will provide.  The caveat on their part is that they can bale out if the repairs are deemed economically not viable - but then they’ll have to sell it for less or fix it for someone else anyway.  
 

From my point of view all I need it to do is to run reliably from Croxley Green to Harefield. 
 

But after that it’s like any old car, boat, whatever.  Sold as seen.  If it breaks I fix it.  

Posted
On 15/09/2023 at 11:30, john.k said:

Yes ..........also sold here as "Start Ya Bastard" .....yes ,thats the actual name on the can!

 

Posted
1 hour ago, truckcab79 said:

From my point of view all I need it to do is to run reliably from Croxley Green to Harefield. 

 

 

Such newbie optimism!! 

 

👍

  • Love 1
Posted
1 hour ago, truckcab79 said:


I’ll be getting breakdown cover. Gives two hours towing if I recall.  So just have to row the last hour and a half  😂

 

It will probably be fine really. If it starts and runs for 20 mins (without overheating) it will probably be fine for 20 years.

 

Most problems and breakdowns relate to fuel contamination, battery charging (not), or overheating I'd say, rather than core engine problems. 

 

 

  • Greenie 1
Posted
1 minute ago, MtB said:

 

It will probably be fine really. If it starts and runs for 20 mins (without overheating) it will probably be fine for 20 years.

 

Most problems and breakdowns relate to fuel contamination, battery charging (not), or overheating I'd say, rather than core engine problems. 

 

 

 

I agree, especially if it starts well enough from cold without any aids apart from those designed in.

  • Greenie 1
Posted (edited)

Message from the marina / seller today.  All seems to be happening as promised. New alternator fitted (didn’t actually expect that as I’d told them how it connected based on the forums advice but said that I appreciated that it was probably knackered anyway).  They’ve apparently given up on the starter and ordered a new one.  
 

🤞

Edited by truckcab79
  • Happy 1
Posted

Be aware ,if the engine is started backwards,most diesels will run backwards ,and suffer damage ranging from burnt air cleaners,no oil to bearings,and possible runaway if the governor only works one way.

Posted
2 hours ago, john.k said:

Be aware ,if the engine is started backwards,most diesels will run backwards ,and suffer damage ranging from burnt air cleaners,no oil to bearings,and possible runaway if the governor only works one way.


Had crossed my mind as it happens. You mean if they’ve ordered a starter that doesn’t run counter-clockwise I assume?  
 

Posted
4 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:


Had crossed my mind as it happens. You mean if they’ve ordered a starter that doesn’t run counter-clockwise I assume?  
 

 

I don't know the details of your engine, but for over 60 years a well-designed diesel engine had a simple sprag clutch as part of the injector pump drive. This seems to have been brought about by vehicle wheels hitting an obstruction, and bouncing the engine backwards. I am sure that your engine is very simple so might be able to run backwards, so my advice is to see if your documentation shows the injector pump drive. At least if the yard fits the wrong starter, and it wrecks the engine it will be down to them, not you.

Posted

As we dont know which way the engine rotates (marine engines often have either rotation as an option),I cant say which starter rotation is correct........assuming the old starter is correct ,then the same as that.

Posted

Until I see what they’ve done there’s not much I can check unfortunately. Was hoping to get up there today but will now be next weekend I think. They’ve been quite open about the fact that it’s not an engine they’re familiar with so common sense would say they’ve just replaced like for like but who knows.   And of course that like for like isn’t replacing the ‘original’ one with another wrong one if that was incorrect. All a bit of an unknown.  

Posted

I think some of the CA45 type starters have a rotation arrow on the body of the starter but you can always tell once you have taken it off because of the spiral on the shaft.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Mike Adams said:

I think some of the CA45 type starters have a rotation arrow on the body of the starter but you can always tell once you have taken it off because of the spiral on the shaft.

Cheers.  Hopefully they’ll have spotted that or just ordered it from a part number if they could fine one amongst the rust. Worst case when I see it next week I’ll have a look for myself and see what they’ve fitted.  

Posted

If they are getting an exchange starter motor then presumably the company doing the exchange will know which one it is. If it is a brand new non exchange then hopefully the original one is left with the boat rather than going in the scrap..

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, magnetman said:

If they are getting an exchange starter motor then presumably the company doing the exchange will know which one it is. If it is a brand new non exchange then hopefully the original one is left with the boat rather than going in the scrap..

 

 


 

No idea to be honest.  I’m assuming exchange for no other reason other than I’d been looking around on the assumption I’d probably be replacing it myself and could only see exchange units available.  

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