I am desperate to get a marine engineer to service my engine

[Ewan123]

1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

 

Yep my mistake, just edited.

[Stilllearning]

Getting the tank cleaned out shouldn't be too difficult or expensive. (Fingers crossed).

[MtB]

Just now, Stilllearning said:

Getting the tank cleaned out shouldn't be too difficult or expensive. (Fingers crossed).

 

I have a horrible feeling there will turn out to be a lot more to this than just a grubby tank needing a fuel polish, and this will be the reason the boat was sold in the first place.

 

 

[LadyG]

1 hour ago, Stilllearning said:

I remember the suggestions that you change your original user name.

 

Yes, 

2 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

I have a horrible feeling there will turn out to be a lot more to this than just a grubby tank needing a fuel polish, and this will be the reason the boat was sold in the first place.

 

 

Yes

[Stilllearning]

4 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Yes, 

Yes

Yes.

[Alan de Enfield]

13 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Chances are very high its a BMC 1.8 I'd have thought. Some photos by the OP would clear this one up easily. 

 

And yes the tank needs sorting out. No engineer is likely to get involved with an engine with a bodged up and most likely dangerous fuel supply from a plastic barrel. This needs sorting out and fixing then once this is done, consider getting the engine serviced.  

 

 

 

It is unlikely to have a BSS, in which case it will not have a licence either.

 

@Garethh Is the boat on, or are you planning on going onto, C&RT waters ?

Edited August 13, 2023 by Alan de Enfield

[BilgePump]

One thing that will help the OP in finding someone to assist with putting in a new tank is if they can measure the old one and the space that it occupies (can a new one be popped in or do structural bits have to be removed/replaced. Photos and measurements can quickly explain things to someone without their need to visit you and view it in person. If the OP has heard the engine running off this bodge setup then it sounds as though they have at least more than a dead lump to start with. But yes, it needs sorting out asap for present safety and next BSS test.

[kris88]

Nothing like a bit of encouragement. 

[LadyG]

 

3 minutes ago, kris88 said:

Nothing like a bit of encouragement. 

I can read that both ways

[Tony Brooks]

I would not be surprised if the fuel leak back is being sent back to the original tank. When that gets full, the fun will start. Luckily, if it is a BMC then the return volume is far smaller than the modern self bleeding systems.

 

Unless it is leaking or there is proof it is rust in the tank, I would say a very bad case of bug is more likely.  The first thing I would advise the OP to do is to pump whatever is in the bottom of the fuel tank out. Being a GRP I expect the tank will have an inspection hatch or a low drain point. Then once we get photos of what he has pumped out we may be able to advise further. If it has a water trap between the old tank and engine, the contents of that would be informative as well.

 

As someone said, the pickup pipe in the tank should not reach the bottom and rust flakes tends to stay on the bottom of the tank. That is not to say it is not a split pick up pipe or a blocked gauze on the pickup pipe inside the tank, so investigation s required.

 

The tank situation needs sorting before anything else. As described, it can't be BSS compliant and any insurance may not be valid because of the non BSS compliance.

[MtB]

19 minutes ago, kris88 said:

Nothing like a bit of encouragement. 

 

Nothing like a pointless, content-free post. 

 

 

[howardang]

As a matter of interest, does this boat have a current boat safety certificate, and to the best of your knowlege when was it last operational ? You say that it is moveable si presumably it has a current CRT licence?

As far as I can see, there is little constructive that this forum can do,  and rather you need to find someone to come and inspect the boat,  like a boat engineer, or a boatyyard or even a boat surveyor. Otherwise, you will find it very difficult to ever resolve any issues (big and small) by talking round the issue on a forum. Go into a local boatyard and ask them for any advice about suitable local firms.

 

Howard

 

[Crewcut]

Try to get friendly with a few boaters near where you are, most are helpful, you'll find someone who'll give your boat the once over so you have a clearer idea what you need. As a general point there are quite a few posts from new boaters asking for trades people to do all sorts of stuff on their boat that in reality a lot of us would probably DIY, either to save money ("professional" labour rates can be eyewatering, some jobs are let's say "awkward", most jobs take a lot longer than you think they might or should) or, as you've found, simply not being able to get anyone. And while we sometimes criticise people for watching too many Youtube videos they can be very useful for learning about this stuff, Tony Brooks' site is also useful. Good luck, take your time, the fact you're asking on a forum with a wealth of knowledge and experience is a good sign...

[Arthur Marshall]

The tank in my nb was really just the back end of the hull, and that certainly rusted through. I got a smaller one fitted by the nearest boatyard - it is , after all, just another tin can with a couple of holes in it, not a major job, but it does need to be done properly with the correct piping or it will fail the BSS.

The general trouble with refitting a boat is that it aint half expensive, but it's even more costly to do it wrong and so have to do it twice. There are one or two genuine experts on here (Tony Brooks being one, there are others) and a lot of us with experience and opinions but not expertise, so if you ask a question, you're likely to get four pages of us discussing it, not always politely. That's the way the forum works. You just have to try to pick out the useful bits from the dross and personal comments and try to do it without looking just for support for your originally preferred option. In the end, you usually have to pray the bloke you get to do the job does an ok job (in my experience they usually don't, but at least they give you a place to move on from). It gets done in the end, usually at twice the original estimate of both money and time. That's boats.

[Garethh]

2 hours ago, howardang said:

I suggest that you need to contact as many boat yards in your area and try to explain the issue as clearly as possible. I certainly sounds like much more than a service and it would ne necessary for an engineer to view the boat properly to give you an assessment of what is actually required. If the engine is disconnected as you say it suggests that the previous owner was more than a little concerned. Did anyone have a look at the boat for you prior to your purchasing it? 

It might also be worth at the same time getting someone who knows what they are about to give your boat a good inspection to see if there are any other such issues.

 

Howard

 

Pics of the engine, under the plastic barrel is the original fuel tank, I also already have a replacement plastic fuel tank.

 

[Chris Lowe]

1 hour ago, MtB said:

Diesel tanks don't generally rust, the diesel is an excellent rust preventer!

They do rust, my landrover failed it's mot on a porus deisel tank, it had rusted above the deisel level and needed a new tank.

[Tracy D'arth]

Looks to be Ford diesel.

 

With that fuel system and the wiring I am going no where near it. Nor am I going to suggest anything other than get a pro to look at it but be prepared to pay lots.

[MtB]

Just now, buccaneer66 said:

They do rust, my landrover failed it's mot on a porus deisel tank, it had rusted above the deisel level and needed a new tank.

 

What level is that then? I bet you never ever filled it up, you cheapskate! 

 

Even so, I hold that a rusted through diesel tank is rare. Probably condensation does the damage, mostly on part-filled, little used tanks.

 

In the OP's GRP, the tank is probably thin pressed steel like your landy, so if rusted through, a new tank is probably an off-the-shelf item. Just need to identify the manu. Some photos would be good. 

 

[Alan de Enfield]

Whilst waiting to sort out your other problems - just a couple of issues to think about.

 

Is the boat in the water ?

It appears to be raw water cooled (water from the canal / river) by the pump with a belt around it (bottom right of the picture)

 

 

This pump has rubber 'fingers' inside it, which if you run it 'dry' (boat not in the water) the rubber fingers will shred and bits of rubber will block the water cooling system - a pain (potentially expensive) job to sort out.

DO NOT start the engine if the boat is out of the water.

 

This is what the impeller should look like (Right) and after starting the engine with no water supply (left)

 

 

 

 

 

Secondly - I assume those crocodile clips are from a battery charger. REMOVE THEM.

Crocodile clips can easily be knocked off and can result in 'shorts', and even (potentially) fire.

The wire should be properly terminated and connected directly to the battery.

[David Mack]

1 hour ago, Garethh said:

I also already have a replacement plastic fuel tank.

The Boat Safety Scheme requires that plastic fuel tanks are marked with a CE mark as suitable for use with diesel or petrol as appropriate. Is your tank so marked?

 

If you already have a suitable tank, then installing it in place of the existing is something the average DIYer should be able to do. Just make sure you follow the BSS requirements for filling and vent lines, pipework to engine etc.

[MtB]

2 hours ago, Garethh said:

I also already have a replacement plastic fuel tank.

 

 

Getting the rusted tank out you say is underneath the temporary tank looks like it will be a right performance. Where did you have in mind fitting this new plastic tank? On top of the old tank or in the same place? I can see it turning into a couple of days work at £50 an hour for a boatyard, so doing it yourself might save a tonne of money. 

 

Bung up a photo of your new tank and people will probably start offering opinions about how (and where) to fit it. And its suitability.

 

 

 

[howardang]

1 hour ago, David Mack said:

The Boat Safety Scheme requires that plastic fuel tanks are marked with a CE mark as suitable for use with diesel or petrol as appropriate. Is your tank so marked?

 

If you already have a suitable tank, then installing it in place of the existing is something the average DIYer should be able to do. Just make sure you follow the BSS requirements for filling and vent lines, pipework to engine etc.

I would be agreeably surprised if the OP is knowledgeable about the BSS requirements,  and looking at the state of the engine it appears to me that if that is indicative of the rest of the vessel, the boat needs a detailed viewing by someone who knows what they are doing. I do hope the OP can find a suitable person to give the boat a detailed look to see what, if anything needs to be dome and he is going to be prepared for spending money to get things sorted, if that is indeed possible.  I suspect that this is a great example of buying a cheap boat to save money and having to spend a great deal to put things right. Forums like this, in my view, are not where he should be concentrating his efforts, but I would be interested to hear how things are resolved.

 

Howard

[Tony Brooks]

I Concur, it is a Ford XLD, but I don't think it is direct raw water cooled. It has a heat exchanger so is probably indirect raw water cooled. That is with an antifreeze mixture running around the engine to cool it, that is in turn cooled by canal water passing through the brass pump and through the heat exchanger.

 

Looking at the BSS problems (master switch hanging off, electric lift pump hanging free and so on, I fear Garethh may well be looking at a bill for several thousand pounds. This boat MIGHT be a good buy for someone with the skills and time to sort it out. It needs far more than an engine service and a new fuel tank. I am sorry but this does not seem to be a boat Garethh should have bought unless he has lots of time and money to get it put right. It could end up costing more than it is worth.

 

I think this will be far too time consuming for me to offer help. I suspect the boat may be well known in the local area and that is why the OP can't get anyone to show interest.

 

When, rather than if, the cam belt snaps it is most likely to wreck the engine, so that is another load of potential expense. Changing cam belts is not as simple a changing an alternator belt and if you get it wrong its a wrecked engine, but for safety it needs changing sooner rather than later. Then one can track the hours used.

 

Sorry, but that is the way it looks to me.

[Paul C]

It looks like a project boat - one which would be financially marginal even with 100% DIY work to fix its various issues (because sooner or later, parts are required and they cost money). If the OP is unable to do the DIY work and needs to call on others, at their commercial rate, its going to be very expensive.

[howardang]

18 minutes ago, Paul C said:

It looks like a project boat - one which would be financially marginal even with 100% DIY work to fix its various issues (because sooner or later, parts are required and they cost money). If the OP is unable to do the DIY work and needs to call on others, at their commercial rate, its going to be very expensive.

Exactly my point, and while I am sympathetic to the  dilemma of the OP I suggest that this is not the sort of problem boat that can be put right by picking brains on a forum such as this, despite the undoubted accumulated knowledge that can be found here.  Tony Brooks makes a point about the boat in question  - "  I suspect the boat may be well known in the local area and that is why the OP can't get anyone to show interest." I think he may well be correct. 

 

We might be more helpful if we could suggest someone who could go to the boat and see the issues involved, rather than plucking up helpful technical solutions out of thin air. 

 

Howard