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Blacking above rubbing strakes?


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I am blacking the boat in a few weeks with Intertuf 16.

Last time we blacked up to the rubbing strake. Above that to the gunwales was left with its original matt black which is now looking a bit tatty.

Looking around, I reckon something like half the boats seem to be blacked up to the gunwales.

Is there a problem doing this?

 

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1 minute ago, Big Bob W said:

I am blacking the boat in a few weeks with Intertuf 16.

Last time we blacked up to the rubbing strake. Above that to the gunwales was left with its original matt black which is now looking a bit tatty.

Looking around, I reckon something like half the boats seem to be blacked up to the gunwales.

Is there a problem doing this?

 

No problem. Mine has been like that for 29 years.

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It's a matter of personal preference. I like the gunnels painted in gloss, to match the boat. It can depend on how deep/tall the cabin sides are. Aesthetically, blacking up that far (the gunnels) can look odd. But it doesn't matter, usually. I've painted about 100 boats, and can only remember one with the gunnels painted with blacking.

 

 

Edited by Higgs
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Working boats were always painted with the same blacking up to gunwale level apart from at the bow and stern. So why would modern narrow boat hulls, loosely based on working boats, need to be any different? It's quicker and easier than messing about with gloss, and easily touched up if you scrape it.

The top surface of the gunwale, which you walk on, should not be painted with bitumen blacking, but it can be black or any colour of your choice. I use red oxide. You should also consider a non slip paint (or dry sand or non-slip granules added to ordinary paint) for this.

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1 minute ago, David Mack said:

Working boats were always painted with the same blacking up to gunwale level apart from at the bow and stern. So why would modern narrow boat hulls, loosely based on working boats, need to be any different? It's quicker and easier than messing about with gloss, and easily touched up if you scrape it.

The top surface of the gunwale, which you walk on, should not be painted with bitumen blacking, but it can be black or any colour of your choice. I use red oxide. You should also consider a non slip paint (or dry sand or non-slip granules added to ordinary paint) for this.

 

Proportion, I think. IMO.

 

 

Edited by Higgs
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16 minutes ago, Higgs said:

But it doesn't matter, usually. I've painted about 100 boats, and can only remember one with the gunnels painted with blacking.

 

Painted 100 boats and 99 of them, wrong! 

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.

.

.

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In my opinion. 

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I would say very much no, blacking above the rubbing strake/guard iron/D section looks wrong to me. It will get scraped and touching up with blacking is a pain. Some blackings go off quite quickly once the tin is opened, brush cleaning is a fag, and it often fades a bit so the repairs stand out. I don't like colours either as all the scrapes look bad. Find a nice cheap easy to apply and fast drying matt or almost matt black paint and use that. Touch up several times each year.

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15 minutes ago, dmr said:

I would say very much no, blacking above the rubbing strake/guard iron/D section looks wrong to me. It will get scraped and touching up with blacking is a pain. Some blackings go off quite quickly once the tin is opened, brush cleaning is a fag, and it often fades a bit so the repairs stand out. I don't like colours either as all the scrapes look bad. Find a nice cheap easy to apply and fast drying matt or almost matt black paint and use that. Touch up several times each year.

No need to clean, use once, Wooden handled brushes are great for getting the fire going, especially with a bit of tar on the bristley end. 
 

 

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27 minutes ago, Goliath said:

No need to clean, use once, Wooden handled brushes are great for getting the fire going, especially with a bit of tar on the bristley end. 
 

 

 

Yeah, I got a pack of cheap brushes so that I could use once and throw away, but they were quite nice so I couldn't resist and cleaned them.

I have a sort of sequence:

good painting

bad painting (primer etc)

epoxy

bin

 

(but with a bit of acetone you can do a couple of epoxy jobs before they go into the bin.)

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18 minutes ago, matty40s said:

Epifanes black is being used more often than gloss black now, being semi matt in finish and easy to touch up.

Epifanes was what I was considering. But as far as I can see, 4 litres is the smallest container you can buy. Well over the top for the amount I need. That’s what got me thinking about blacking up to the gunwales. 
The top (walking bit) is still fine, so just the sides.

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