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Fix ply to steel in engine bay in cold conditons


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I want to re-jig the fuel filter position in my engine bay in the next few days. This means I need new fixing points & without the option of welding I was wondering is there a 'stickafix' type or adhesive  solution that will work well this time of year that anyone can recommend that will attach ply to steel and is permanent. I have a Fuelguard with the fuel polishing kit & I want to slightly re-position it to enable my to fit a hospital silencer. (Obviously drilling is out of the question as it is below the waterline)

Thanks guys & happy New Year.

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Personally, I wouldn't be happy using an adhesive to hold things with fuel running through them. The consequences of a leak if the vibration through the hull breaks the joint while under way, or tied up with the engine running and the Fuelguard kit is flapping about are potentially bad. I'd find someone who can weld a bracket in the desired position.

Someone has welded a new battery tray in my boat in the engine bay below the water line OK, so the boat doesn't need to be hoiked out.

Edited by Jen-in-Wellies
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Stixall can be used in damp conditions and does hold well. I guess you could use that for now and have a couple of supporting brackets tacked on at a later date for peace of mind.

 

Edited by PaulJ
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1 hour ago, PaulJ said:

Stixall can be used in damp conditions and does hold well. I guess you could use that for now and have a couple of supporting brackets tacked on at a later date for peace of mind.

 

 

Seconded. That's exactly what I've used to hold a new water/sediment trap and fixings for a fuel line to a new Webasto. I've also used Marineflex (same sort of PU adhesive as Stixall) to do the same thing for fixings for gas lines at the bow, under the gunwale between the gas locker and bulkhead. 16 years later they're still solid.

 

I used scrap pieces of hardwood rather than ply but ply would work just as well, just need to make sure it doesn't rot in damp conditions. 

 

Key both surfaces with sandpaper, clean with a little white spirit and stick the wood to the steel with Stixall. Obviously the larger the piece of ply the greater the surface area and the stronger the bond. 24 hours later you'll need a hammer and chisel to get it off. Then you can screw your fittings into the wood.

 

39 minutes ago, Phil. said:

I have found CT1 a very reliable product, and it will bond in damp or even wet conditions.

 

https://www.ct1.com

 

Yes I've heard about that one too. Most of these PU sealant/adhesives are pretty good.

Edited by blackrose
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Thanks everyone. I should have mentioned that I do intend to have welded brackets done when the boat goes into the dry-dock later this year where I'll be getting a few odd jobs done as well as re-blacking. I just want to fit a new silencer now rather than wait.

 

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Why not drill and tap the steel, then fix the ply on with short machine screws? It's very easy.

 

Or do you mean you want to fix the plywood to the inside face of the hull? That might not work out so well....

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1 hour ago, MtB said:

Why not drill and tap the steel, then fix the ply on with short machine screws? It's very easy.

 

Or do you mean you want to fix the plywood to the inside face of the hull? That might not work out so well....

Depends on how quick you are....

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7 minutes ago, matty40s said:

Depends on how quick you are....

 

If it is say a hull with 8mm sides, someone good could drill to a depth of say 7.0mm and tap the hole using a No 3 blind tap.... 

 

I can't see any problem with that, can you?

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I know the wrath of the whole forum will descend on me but I am going to suggest Evo 5 minute wood glue cartridge and as a back up some neodymian magnets built in.

With extensive coverage with the glue, I don't think you will ever get it off again. 

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29 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

If it is say a hull with 8mm sides, someone good could drill to a depth of say 7.0mm and tap the hole using a No 3 blind tap.... 

 

I can't see any problem with that, can you?

Do surveyors map all the 1mm pits?

 

29 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

If it is say a hull with 8mm sides, someone good could drill to a depth of say 7.0mm and tap the hole using a No 3 blind tap.... 

 

I can't see any problem with that, can you?

 

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1 hour ago, MtB said:

 

If it is say a hull with 8mm sides, someone good could drill to a depth of say 7.0mm and tap the hole using a No 3 blind tap.... 

 

I can't see any problem with that, can you?

It's not known as a plug tap for nothing..........

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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

I know the wrath of the whole forum will descend on me but I am going to suggest Evo 5 minute wood glue cartridge and as a back up some neodymian magnets built in.

With extensive coverage with the glue, I don't think you will ever get it off again. 

 

Wood glue? How flexible is that? Sounds like it might get a bit brittle as it ages.

 

Any adhesive used has to be flexible enough to compensate for the differential thermal expansion and contraction of the dissimilar substrates being bonded.

 

I can't see the point of wood glue and magnets when PU adhesives are widely available and much simpler.

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I'm sure other adhesives can work but personally I try to use the most appropriate product for the job. I know some people have never used PU adhesives and have no experience, but I've never heard of anyone who has used Sikaflex, Marineflex, Stixall or CT1 going back to using wood glue, No More Nails, Pinkgrip or Gripfill, etc, for a wood to steel bond on a boat.

 

Anyway, you pays your money, you takes your choice. It's up to each of us to decide what to do on our own boats.

Edited by blackrose
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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

I'm sure other adhesives can work but personally I try to use the most appropriate product for the job. I know some people have never used PU adhesives and have no experience, but I've never heard of anyone who has used Sikaflex, Marineflex, Stixall or CT1 going back to using wood glue, No More Nails, Pinkgrip or Gripfill, etc, for a wood to steel bond on a boat.

 

Anyway, you pays your money, you takes your choice. It's up to each of us to decide what to do on our own boats.

This wasn't the water based non smelly, solvent free one I used, that just fell off Gripfill Adhesive 350ml | Solvented Adhesives | Screwfix.com but the ones you list may be better, I dont know

 

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10 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Wood glue? How flexible is that? Sounds like it might get a bit brittle as it ages.

 

Any adhesive used has to be flexible enough to compensate for the differential thermal expansion and contraction of the dissimilar substrates being bonded.

 

I can't see the point of wood glue and magnets when PU adhesives are widely available and much simpler.

I did not say pva. Evo 5 minute is foaming polyurethane glue . Check the  specs before assuming you know.

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I used NoMoreNails or similar to stick down a piece of wood in the engine bay about 18 years ago. It's still stuck there. Clean the surface very, very well first!

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18 hours ago, Clodi said:

I want to re-jig the fuel filter position in my engine bay in the next few days. This means I need new fixing points & without the option of welding I was wondering is there a 'stickafix' type or adhesive  solution that will work well this time of year that anyone can recommend that will attach ply to steel and is permanent. I have a Fuelguard with the fuel polishing kit & I want to slightly re-position it to enable my to fit a hospital silencer. (Obviously drilling is out of the question as it is below the waterline)

Thanks guys & happy New Year.

Anything glued to the hull will only be as good as the paint bond on the hull.  I doubt if a glued on fuel filter would meet the BSS requirements.

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PU-18 polyurethane is your friend.  It is not the expanding foam stuff, it looks much like silicon bathroom/kitchen sealer and it sticks like dung to a blanket.  It remains flexible, it is tolerant of damp and it takes a lot of work to remove it.  Buy it on ebay.

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56 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

Anything glued to the hull will only be as good as the paint bond on the hull.  I doubt if a glued on fuel filter would meet the BSS requirements.

 

Which is why you key the area first. I've got various fittings bonded to the hull including short sections of the main gas run, fuel filter and pipe which have all passed several BSS inspections.

1 hour ago, Onewheeler said:

I used NoMoreNails or similar to stick down a piece of wood in the engine bay about 18 years ago. It's still stuck there. Clean the surface very, very well first!

 

18 years ago No More Nails was probably about as good as you could get, but it's far too brittle. I also used it 16 years ago but it's gone chalky and brittle. These days there are much better products on the market. If you're doing the job now why would anyone use old inferior adhesives? 

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50 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Which is why you key the area first. I've got various fittings bonded to the hull including short sections of the main gas run, fuel filter and pipe which have all passed several BSS inspections.

 

18 years ago No More Nails was probably about as good as you could get, but it's far too brittle. I also used it 16 years ago but it's gone chalky and brittle. These days there are much better products on the market. If you're doing the job now why would anyone use old inferior adhesives? 

That is true, but none of mine has let go, YET.

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On 10/01/2022 at 09:40, Flyboy said:
On 09/01/2022 at 14:47, Clodi said:

I do intend to get some brackets welded on when she's out for blacking, hopefully in 3 months time.

Anything glued to the hull will only be as good as the paint bond on the hull.  I doubt if a glued on fuel filter would meet the BSS requirements.

 

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