Tacet

You may wish to check with whoever is telling you this. It will be a transfer of part of a title which will incur a fee of £270 for a value of between £200,001 and £500,000. But it's not a first registration (which does not incur an additional LR fee anyway). Neither is there a surcharge for new builds. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/hm-land-registry-registration-services-fees

Whether or not it is a new build has no direct bearing on the Land Registry fees; it primarily depends on value and whether it is a transfer of whole or part of a title - or a voluntary registration.

Amps per hour can be a sensible unit - but mostly not in the situations one sees it used.

Looks to me as though your plot is registered with other land under NT532928 - just that it has not been divided into one-house lots. The fess for a transfer of part TP1 are typically twice that for a transfer of whole TR1. You are probably looking at £270.

A 'frequent' poster acquired a 'large' quantity of apostrophes destined for greengrocers - making them hard to 'find' in the shops.

Wow. Looks a bit concerning. Slightly off topic, there was a time when you could take one's boat beyond the town, on the canal of course, and I remember reaching Horsehoe Falls. Even though it was a 17ft boat, it had to be reversed back a fair way to to find the space to turn it.

Yes. And if you're running with the tide (as is conventional) up to Teddington, you don't need any more power beyond that required to make good steering. If you go any faster, you shoot through central London so fast there is no time to enjoy the sights.

I didn't make any suggestion about you at all, It rather depends on the surrounding circumstances. But if, again in extremis, one's lawful keeping place is a never-used mate's garden in Aberdeen - and the boat is large heavy vessel, it might well bear upon the "reasonable" in the "can reasonably be kept" element of the Act.

The Act requires "the Board are satisfied that a mooring or other place where the vessel can reasonably be kept and may lawfully be left will be available for the vessel" as one of its options. Whilst the obiter comment is that a home mooring need not never be used, the absence of any use over a long period could be one indication that the vessel cannot be reasonably kept at the mooring. Obviously it depends on the facts and circumstances but, in extremis, one was to arrange a home mooring in Sydney Harbour, you shouldn't be too surprised if the Board took the view that it was not a reasonable place to keep a boat for the purposes of the Act.

Well, it's a matter of degree so there can be no absolute answer. If you flatten the single domestic, it is going to subsequently have a greater rater of charge than its series friend, but any more than a single flat battery on a 12v system? But assuming the domestic and starter batteries are only paralleled when the alternator is charging, the drop in voltage on the single domestic is not going to be that great. If you had a VSR, would it not prevent the domestic being caned too hard? (honest question). If you were that bothered, you could rotate the domestic battery so each had its turn being paralleled with the starter.

OK - but it is much simpler than the other suggestion of 24v inverters powering 12v battery charges. If the only real problem is with balancing the draw on the batteries, the power drawn by topping-up the starter will usually only be a few ah per day. Gibbo did some calculations showing how differing length links/resistances on parallel batteries caused some to draw more current than others. But as he acknowledged, he did not allow for the batteries equalizing voltages (and therefore SoC) when not much else was happening current-wise. I was never greatly convinced it was a real-world issue any more than say, some batteries might be better cooled by being further from the engine or the difference between middle and end batteries in a closely packed bank. Years ago a friend had a Transit van with a York engine, which were notoriously difficult to start. So, amongst other fixes, a second battery was added in parallel. When he went camping (several tents.....) the batteries were connected in series to run a 24v system on a -12v - 0v - +12v arrangement using round pin 15a and 5a plugs depending on whether it was 12v or 24v at that point. He tied a label on the steering wheel to remind him to change back to parallel and, as far as I know, never discovered what happened when you put 24v to the van's electrics.

I am puzzled as to why my betters are puzzled by the difficulties in charging a 12v (starter) battery from a 24v alternator/domestic system. Could you not just put the starter battery in parallel with one of the two batteries making up the 24v (i.e. centre tap)? A switch or gizmo in the connection could prevent the domestic side from draining the starter battery. I am not, of course, saying this is how the OPs boat is wired - just asking if it can't be done quite simply.

A pedant writes: I think the colder the air, the greater the mass (not volume) that is sucked in. Something to do with moles too. Presumably, in theory at least, the carb needs tweaking to allow more petrol to match the more air. What do they do on F1 cars? Do they close the choke or raise the cold start needle in its jet?

There are two Ls in intelligent.

Removing the big brass cap on the manifold can be tricky. When I tried, with a 3/4" drive socket and some extra leverage, it got to the point where I thought there was a chance of tearing it out of the aluminium. So I gave it up. It does seem to form a local high point that could trap air. I considered drilling and tapping the cap to expel it - if not as a filling point. But in the vent, it didn't cause any problems so either volume of trapped air was small or it was swept away when the water pump was running.