chevron Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Hi Any idea where I might be able to purchase a new flexible exhaust pipe from same as the picture of both ends please. It is off a beta marine 50 but am guessing the exhaust and flexible would not be supplied by Beta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 I should think E bay, search flexible exhaust, custom exhaust or HGV exhaust systems or something like that, good luck with getting it off, looks a bit rusted solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 You need to visit / phone one of the Bus & Truck parts suppliers (The HGV version of Halfords) I use this 'group' and they make hoses, cables, exhausts etc up to your lengths whilst you wait. https://www.particmotorspares.co.uk/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Looks like one of these, screwed into a malleable iron union in the top photo. https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/products/bellows-1-1-2-bsp-m-m-18-o-a-length-e324 Other sizes available, and with male or female threaded ends. That union is very rusty. You may have a devil of a job unscewing it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevron Posted September 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Midland chandlers looks like the one thanks for the answers. I think with a bit of heat it will come off. But I have another problem above the silencer is a screwed in elbow and also one at the other end. Do I turn the threaded flange further onto the silencer so that the flexible unscrews and releases from the flange then remove the flexible at the other end. All the joints are screwed together the only way I can see to release the flexible is as above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEngo Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 If you undo ( or split with a grinder) the big nut on the pipe union at the end of the flexible it will all come apart. Then you can screw the flexible off. N N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 If you skip to about 2:15 in the video below you will see how a union is assembled. You just have to do the reverse. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevron Posted September 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Thanks for that knew there had to be a way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higgs Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Aquafax. https://www.aquafax.co.uk/search?query=flexible+exhaust+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEngo Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Looking at the OP picture I cannot tell which way the union nut unscrews. If he is lucky the nut will go toward the flexible and there will then be no need to remove the other half from the silencer, just fit a new half union to the new flexible. I don't think the silencer end half union will come off without damaging the silencer, even with a load of heat. N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 2 minutes ago, Higgs said: Aquafax. https://www.aquafax.co.uk/search?query=flexible+exhaust+ Since Aquafax are part of the same group that owns Midland Chandlers, its not suprising they have the have similar stock. I think Aquafax are trade only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higgs Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) 4 minutes ago, BEngo said: Looking at the OP picture I cannot tell which way the union nut unscrews. If he is lucky the nut will go toward the flexible and there will then be no need to remove the other half from the silencer, just fit a new half union to the new flexible. I don't think the silencer end half union will come off without damaging the silencer, even with a load of heat. N I've changed a couple of flexible exhausts. Be prepared to have some 'brute' wrenches and torsion bars - to take the old one off. Edited September 8, 2020 by Higgs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) Unbolt the flange from the engine before you try to undo the threaded joints or you will break the manifold. You will need a new gasket here. If you can get the whole assembly off the boat, batter the outside of the threaded joints with a hammer on an anvil or a vice to loosen them. You are very unlikely to be able to just undo them. Edited September 8, 2020 by Tracy D'arth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevron Posted September 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 There is no flange at the engine end just a screwed in 90 degree elbow at the bottom,it is a beta engine in a sound proof box only hope is that the big nut releases or cut it. Think it looks worst than it is, if it needs a new silencer it is not too bad but will still have a problem if it is seized the other end. Worked on Citroen cars for 27 years so am quite use to things being seized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 3 minutes ago, chevron said: There is no flange at the engine end just a screwed in 90 degree elbow at the bottom,it is a beta engine in a sound proof box only hope is that the big nut releases or cut it. Think it looks worst than it is, if it needs a new silencer it is not too bad but will still have a problem if it is seized the other end. Worked on Citroen cars for 27 years so am quite use to things being seized. Ah, but that's French seized, English seized is much harder! I've shaken these unions and threads loose by using a cold chisel on all 6 flats to spread the female fittings slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Brummie Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 A bit of heat might help if you can get a torch in without compromising any other components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man 'o Kent Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 13 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said: Unbolt the flange from the engine before you try to undo the threaded joints or you will break the manifold. You will need a new gasket here. If you can get the whole assembly off the boat, batter the outside of the threaded joints with a hammer on an anvil or a vice to loosen them. You are very unlikely to be able to just undo them. Sounnd advice, no matter how much bother it is get it off the engine and onto the bench, I suspect that brute is going to give you a heck of a fight. When re-building get a tube of copper antisieze grease to apply to the threads, it'll give you half a chance for the next time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said: Ah, but that's French seized, English seized is much harder! I've shaken these unions and threads loose by using a cold chisel on all 6 flats to spread the female fittings slightly. I have a beta and on mine there is a flange with three bolts connecting the threaded fitting to the cast iron manifold. This is not my engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevron Posted September 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) Unfortunately my beta engine is in one of them suitcase type boxes. On looking again it was the same joint in the most inaccessible place as the joint at the silencer. I am not too fussed if I have to replace the silencer and coupling as long as I can get the flexible pipe out of the elbow near the engine. Have wrapped all the joints in pieces of cloth now and soaked them with penetrating fluid to start with. Edited September 8, 2020 by chevron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Man 'o Kent said: When re-building get a tube of copper antisieze grease to apply to the threads, it'll give you half a chance for the next time around. ..or even copperslip.... With Kiwidads double exhaust, we had to cut pipes with an angle grinder in 4 locations, plus a welded bracket to get it all out. (2005 installation) Edited September 8, 2020 by matty40s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBiscuits Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 46 minutes ago, chevron said: Unfortunately my beta engine is in one of them suitcase type boxes. I thought they easily removed with a couple of bolts so you could get at the engine, or is it not the Beta one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevron Posted September 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) The bottom housing sits under the engine and gearbox you would have to remove the engine to remove it as the engine mountings bolt through it. Unfortunately the exhaust goes through the rear of the bottom housing.you can see it in picture Edited September 8, 2020 by chevron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevron Posted September 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2020 Appreciate all the helpful comments and the utube video of how the connection works heat would not move the joints even with the biggest pipe wrench, so angle grinder to cut the clamps and a hacksaw to cut the joints with threads on I need to reuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted September 9, 2020 Report Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) If heating yer stubborn nuts really needs to be done fast so that the nut expands to release it without heating and expanding the whole thing which generally means you don't usually get anywhere. Oxy acetylene flame played on one side of the nut only will expand it quickly leaving what its screwed onto cooler. Ordinary butane-propane torch flames are not hot enough and so not fast enough to achieve this. Edited September 9, 2020 by bizzard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevron Posted September 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2020 Yes found that out today not enough fast heat from a blow torch. So a hacksaw to limit damage to unions I wanted to reuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now