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Double Glazed or Single Glazed Windows?


Richard X

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Hi everyone!

 

Thanks for the continued answers to my never ending questions but I have another! smile.png

 

The question is, Single Glazed? or Double Glazed? with or without a Thermal Break?

 

Which is better? Which would you have? Which have you got and are you happy with them?

 

Thanks again

Richard X

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What i dont get with NB`s is why even want / need double glazed windows as when folk have single glazed they will open doors and windows when it is dam cold when they have the heating on so why need to go to double glazed ?

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What i dont get with NB`s is why even want / need double glazed windows as when folk have single glazed they will open doors and windows when it is dam cold when they have the heating on so why need to go to double glazed ?

Generally to stop the massive amounts of condensation that you get if you don't have them.

  • Greenie 1
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Generally to stop the massive amounts of condensation that you get if you don't have them.

 

 

I would of thought that most boats would go double glazed then.

 

I have always thought that good ventilation combats that problem ?

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Double glazed windows, yeah, they're better but not top of my list of wants. Wheelhouse windows when part of the living space - definite yes as theres a lot of cold glass and warm air rises into the w/house. Result, terrible condensation, much worse than the other windows.

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The thermal break thing is more important than double glazing. We have neither. If there is condensation on the windows (typically only whilst cooking) and water runs down the pane, it goes out of the little exit ports at the bottom. However condensation on the frames is much more prolific due to the better thermal conductivity of aluminium vs glass, and that condensation has no-where to go except onto the woodwork.

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I like to think that condensation on the windows is water no longer in the boat and is easily guided to the little exit ports at the bottom of the pane each morning so I am personally persuaded that single glazing and good thick blinds/curtains or porthole bungs (for insulation) is best. Good ventilation is necessary on all boats but I would have thought, good enough to keep windows clear would be draughty.

  • Greenie 1
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I suspect that secondary double glazing using something like Perspex may be the answer because it will go some way to keeping hot, moist air away from the frames and also help combat draughts. The problem then becomes getting ventilation in the summer. I am toying with the idea of fitting such things by screwing a plastic glazed wooden frame over the window for winters and storing it away in the summer but the drop back hoppers get in the way.

 

A few years ago we had several good reports about thin film type temporary double glazing for winter use. Someone also spoke well of the moulded secondary glazing as found on caravans.

 

I am also to be convinced double glazed windows will maintain their seal in the long term when subject to the vibrations and bangs canal boats tend to get. I know they do not in houses with far less vibration.

 

Really just for further consideration, not recommendations.

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I have now hidden my boat in shame.

smile.png

Me too mines red as well, Mike will love that !!

frusty.giffrusty.giffrusty.gif

 

ETA : we have double glazing, but as said you still get condensation on the aluminium frames.

Edited by Bazza954
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Changed from single glazed to double glazed a few months ago.

 

The condensation is much less and we think it is warmer, but one bonus which no-one has mentioned above is the noise reduction, it is very much quieter with the extra pane of glass.

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Changed from single glazed to double glazed a few months ago.

 

The condensation is much less and we think it is warmer, but one bonus which no-one has mentioned above is the noise reduction, it is very much quieter with the extra pane of glass.

 

 

Mmmmm but that can be bad as then you cannot hear the speed boats passing by and get the chance to yell SLOW DOWN, lol.

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I suspect that secondary double glazing using something like Perspex may be the answer because it will go some way to keeping hot, moist air away from the frames and also help combat draughts. The problem then becomes getting ventilation in the summer. I am toying with the idea of fitting such things by screwing a plastic glazed wooden frame over the window for winters and storing it away in the summer but the drop back hoppers get in the way.

 

A few years ago we had several good reports about thin film type temporary double glazing for winter use. Someone also spoke well of the moulded secondary glazing as found on caravans.

 

I am also to be convinced double glazed windows will maintain their seal in the long term when subject to the vibrations and bangs canal boats tend to get. I know they do not in houses with far less vibration.

 

Really just for further consideration, not recommendations.

We use the film type secondary glazing on the "bus" windows with great success. I removed the protruding hopper tops (just screwed on) and it fits perfectly within the wooden frame. Recently we have left it on all year round (there are other opening windows/side doors) although it is probably best replaced each year due to deterioration/ cobwebs etc.
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We started with single glazed aluminium framed portholes and had massive condensation. Ive replaced the frames with fibreglass ( wood look) ones and plugged in secondary perspex double glazing. Problem solved. So if i were starting again i would fit double glazed portholes with thermal breaks in the frames.

 

Top Cat

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I have aluminium rectangle windows fortunately no curves my solution was to remove the top opening window catches and brackets, these were easily removed simply prising them off the rivets with a flat screw driver. i then sealed the top window shut and fitted some made to measure sealed units (no frame just glass) in the recess, sealing them with silicon and small non obtrusive brackets finally replacing the wooden framing, looks superb better than before in my opinion.

 

The sealed units are k glass and argon filled, boat stays so much warmer, no condensation inside however i do get condensation on the original glass, I plan to remove the sealed units on a hot summers day clean the original glass better (was short on time) refit the DG units and seal off the original windows drainage vents, the theory being that warm air will not hold moisture so once the gap is sealed the warm/dry air is trapped no more condensation.

I have left the middle two windows (kitchen area) as original as well as the Bow window and bathroom window so i can still have ventilation, interesting these windows no longer get condensation not real sure why not as they were bad before.

 

I am hoping that the K glass and argon gas will help keep the boat much cooler in summer. Only other concern is the dg seal could break with movement but that is unlikely in my opinion.

I have aluminium rectangle windows fortunately no curves my solution was to remove the top opening window catches and brackets, these were easily removed simply prising them off the rivets with a flat screw driver. i then sealed the top window shut and fitted some made to measure sealed units (no frame just glass) in the recess, sealing them with silicon and small non obtrusive brackets finally replacing the wooden framing, looks superb better than before in my opinion.

 

The sealed units are k glass and argon filled, boat stays so much warmer, no condensation inside however i do get condensation on the original glass, I plan to remove the sealed units on a hot summers day clean the original glass better (was short on time) refit the DG units and seal off the original windows drainage vents, the theory being that warm air will not hold moisture so once the gap is sealed the warm/dry air is trapped no more condensation.

I have left the middle two windows (kitchen area) as original as well as the Bow window and bathroom window so i can still have ventilation, interesting these windows no longer get condensation not real sure why not as they were bad before.

 

I am hoping that the K glass and argon gas will help keep the boat much cooler in summer. Only other concern is the dg seal could break with movement but that is unlikely in my opinion.

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You might be better removing the sealed units on a cold dry day, cold air can hold less water vapor than warm air. A bright frosty morning would be ideal but hold your breath and use gloves.

Top Cat

Absolutely. It's funny how people think that a hot day means there's less water vapour in the air, when in fact the reverse is generally true. If in doubt, look for the dew point on a weather report. This is the temperature at which the water in the air will start to condense out. In the summer it might be 15 degrees or so. In the winter it can be zero or less.

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