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W+T last won the day on October 29 2017

W+T had the most liked content!

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389 Excellent

About W+T

  • Birthday 06/23/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Radcliffe < Manchester
  • Interests
    Boats, DIY, fishing, cars.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Boat Fettler
  • Boat Name
    Khashoggi`s Ship
  • Boat Location
    United Kingdom

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Recent Profile Visitors

8246 profile views
  1. The filler i was thinking is what i use a lot with Epoxy and thats West Systems 407. I just didnt like the idea to just treat with rust treatment and paint then stick in the windows with adhesive. Although If thats how its done though i will. Thanks easier than i thought.
  2. I am working on a NB that needs the windows putting back in, they were remove some time ago. Now all around the aperture where the frame is mounted to has corroded a fair bit. I can think of two ways ti fix this before refitting the windows. weld in new aperture frame or smooth out with Epoxy/filler. The choice to cut away corrosion and fit new windows is off the cards. What other ways to make good can you suggest ?
  3. So thank you for replies. Now are there any you would not use due to warping or any other reason etc etc
  4. Hi all. So what suggestions are there from folk that have had a wooden floor fitted to there steel boats. Which did you use ?
  5. Took long enough for a good reply, and not meaning to use 3mm sheet but sensible to the question asked. Still need a link to look into it though as first question.
  6. Thanks i will look into using thicker steel , just what most other folk have said that i spoke to who built a few boats say 3mm will be ok. still any link please. why you talking shit, did i say `i am going to ignore that`.....no
  7. Ok i need to plan this project. I will be welding on a new superstructure to a 47 foot steel hulled NB I will be using 3mm steel fro side and top, some will say use thicker plate, 3mm is good enough. Now i want to do this properly can anybody link me to any decent place to look up on doing this. I have seen some right contraptions on my travels. I have a good idea how i would do it an dit would work but then there is the proper ( professional ) way. Captain Faffer
  8. Well got first price to do it. £7000 to do the full job and £2600 to weld my prep work up.
  9. A though on this. When i looked over the boat the over plating looked a good thickness. I plan to remove the ply/grp superstructure and weld on a new steel superstructure. Would this be then to heavy ? Its difficult to tell i guess.
  10. We are talking just to stretch a hull here.
  11. I didnt know you did, or if you did i didnt realise you are so stuck on it not being worth it. Its worth depending on cost. Must be. if i get somebody else to do a full job then yes if they want £12k plus to do it. If i did the work myself, all the prep, and tacked up to be welded then that could change things. At the minute though its staying as it is and fitting a steel top
  12. This engine has been in the cruiser i have since new, the original engine. i believe. and runs spot on. And to think of it i would only put diesel in it lol . When i bought the cruiser the engine came in everybody, not one person, said anything bad about them, Parts are not to bad to come by and prices not horrendous, i use Westfield x4 , reason i still have it and was going to put it back in the cruiser i have., No point kida if i have two here, yet the ST2 could be knackered, doubt it as its not run since it got flooded, i need to remove it and flush it yet.
  13. Well looks like if i do it i will be doing in all myself lol. get my rig out i guess and warm up the welding skills.. Joking i would see if some would do the welding once i have tacked it will up.
  14. That sounds a bit OTT just for welding/stretching a hull, they build a new a NB for that price fitted out, well so i thought.
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