Lamby

Thank you so much for your assistance, after lots of consideration I have decided to forget the Zinga and jotamastic instead I am using sml 2 pack keep it simple and if it lasts 10 years that’s good enough

Will do cheers

Thank you for your replies, I think i am going to leave the undercoat and just rely on 2 pack blacking, on account that using Zinga or jotamastic with the wrong top blacking could cause more problems then it solves if it works.

Would Jotamastic 87 AL be a good alternative to Zinga for a steel boat hull prior blacking ?

i will not be held accountable for any jilted brides, so its a Newage PRM 160D2 it runs on 15w 40 engine oil not synthetic so i opted for Halfords mineral 15w 40 i got 2 litres hopefully should be enough as oil is visible on bottom of the dip stick.

Thank you, I found the plate on top and got the info from the manufacturers web page. Very much appreciated as I did not know where to start :-)

I have a Kubota 3 cylinder engine, the gear box is out of oil I am guessing it would be transmission oil I need, I am hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction regards the specification I would require thank you in advance

I have been google researching skin tanks and now have a much better idea how it works. I am sure I will be able resolve issues. Thank you to both Tony and David for your help and supplying the correct name that enabled the research. Flyboy I can assure you the boat has got its full boat safety history, for the 10 years it has been in my family. The wiring has never been highlighted as a concern with any of the various bss inspectors as of yet, however I take on board your thoughts and will look to address the issue you have highlighted, would not want any damage to the boat or owners due to easily rectified concerns. Thank you for bringing it to my attention. :-)

Thank you Tony that helps a lot, it has given me a starting point. very much appreciated.

Hi i am hoping some one will be able to establish what cooling system my engine uses from the photos, i thought it used river water but now i am not so sure, i un done the filler cap on the heat exchanger ( i assume its a heat exchanger the first photo) however, water started to pour out so i re tightened it quickly an advice would be welcome.

Thank you for advice I will try and sort the units on a cold frosty day instead. Cheers

I dont have a guage, I discovered a while back that water tanks wait till you are half way through a shower before emptying. So the solution was simple no more showers.

I dont have a guage, I discovered a while back that water tanks wait till you are half way through a shower before emptying. So the solution was simple no more showers.

I have aluminium rectangle windows fortunately no curves my solution was to remove the top opening window catches and brackets, these were easily removed simply prising them off the rivets with a flat screw driver. i then sealed the top window shut and fitted some made to measure sealed units (no frame just glass) in the recess, sealing them with silicon and small non obtrusive brackets finally replacing the wooden framing, looks superb better than before in my opinion. The sealed units are k glass and argon filled, boat stays so much warmer, no condensation inside however i do get condensation on the original glass, I plan to remove the sealed units on a hot summers day clean the original glass better (was short on time) refit the DG units and seal off the original windows drainage vents, the theory being that warm air will not hold moisture so once the gap is sealed the warm/dry air is trapped no more condensation. I have left the middle two windows (kitchen area) as original as well as the Bow window and bathroom window so i can still have ventilation, interesting these windows no longer get condensation not real sure why not as they were bad before. I am hoping that the K glass and argon gas will help keep the boat much cooler in summer. Only other concern is the dg seal could break with movement but that is unlikely in my opinion. I have aluminium rectangle windows fortunately no curves my solution was to remove the top opening window catches and brackets, these were easily removed simply prising them off the rivets with a flat screw driver. i then sealed the top window shut and fitted some made to measure sealed units (no frame just glass) in the recess, sealing them with silicon and small non obtrusive brackets finally replacing the wooden framing, looks superb better than before in my opinion. The sealed units are k glass and argon filled, boat stays so much warmer, no condensation inside however i do get condensation on the original glass, I plan to remove the sealed units on a hot summers day clean the original glass better (was short on time) refit the DG units and seal off the original windows drainage vents, the theory being that warm air will not hold moisture so once the gap is sealed the warm/dry air is trapped no more condensation. I have left the middle two windows (kitchen area) as original as well as the Bow window and bathroom window so i can still have ventilation, interesting these windows no longer get condensation not real sure why not as they were bad before. I am hoping that the K glass and argon gas will help keep the boat much cooler in summer. Only other concern is the dg seal could break with movement but that is unlikely in my opinion.

already have a battery charger set up, plus the engine just thought i could dispense of the charger if the inverter could do a better job.