Cruiser Stern Decking

[Mitchellmoxo]

Hello,

 

I replaced the cruiser stern decking about a year ago with exterior ply that I had painted using gloss paying special attention to the edges however this still did not work and it has now completely split.

 

I am now looking to replace the deck boards, I considered composite decking but I cannot allow water to run between the grooves as the engine is underneath. What do other people use?

 

Pic of my deck here.

 

Is there some kind of product on the market made for this.

 

Kind Regards

Mitch

[Delta9]

Buffalo board

[Mitchellmoxo]

will it last being constantly exposed to weather?

[Tony Brooks]

will it last being constantly exposed to weather?

 

Not indefinitely, but for a long time as long as you treat the cut edges. I think 98% of all narrowboats use Buffalo board or similar for that job.

[Kwacker]

One of the 2% here, I used aluminium checker plate, expensive, but as a one-off, well worth it. 5 years on it's as good as the day it was fitted, no maintenance required and much lighter than the original leaky wooden boards.

[Grebe]

We had our replacement deck boards made by a yacht builder and restorer in broadland. They were marine ply, epoxy coated and covered with treadmaster. They are 10 years old now and as good as new. It was a big expense but has been great value in the long run.

[Hairy Animal]

We had our replacement deck boards made by a yacht builder and restorer in broadland. They were marine ply, epoxy coated and covered with treadmaster. They are 10 years old now and as good as new. It was a big expense but has been great value in the long run.

I was given a tip on using epoxy resin as an effective sealer for the cut edges of marine ply. It makes a big difference to its longevity apparently.

 

I did some tests painting the edges first with just one coat, then, once completely cured I weighed the test piece and then immersed it in water for a day and re-weighed it - it weighed more implying it had taken up some water. I then dried it thoroughly and added a second coat of resin to the edges. This time, it hardly changed in weight implying the second coat was necessary for effective sealing of the edges.

 

At a guess, this technique would be a good idea even with something as hardy as the buffalo board mentioned above, though I was using it on a faced marine ply.

[Mike Jordan]

I've used flotex carpet over 18mm exterior plywood with the edges protected by ally angle screwed in place with stainless screws. The Flowtex is guaranteed for twenty years and seems to do a full term. You can wipe your feet on it before going inside and the next shower cleans it for you (well nearly)

[WotEver]

As previously mentioned, two or three coats of epoxy will seal the edges of whatever you use. Paint won't.

 

And yes, Buffalo board is much better for this use than marine ply as it has a high resin content.

 

Tony

[boat fan]

If good quality marine plywood is used and a minimum of three coats of epoxy is rolled onto the panel , ( particularly on the end grain to stop water soaking into it ) it will last a long time.

 

 

If you use f/glass cloth as well , and you repair any deep gouges promptly , and keep the ultra violet rays off the epoxy by maintaining the paint it will last 30 years or more .

 

 

My hulls are built with quality marine plywood , three coats of epoxy resin and f/glass tape on the edges , then fl/glass cloth over everything.

 

I expect this will last at least for 40 years .

Edited April 5, 2016 by boat fan

[MHS]

Another vote here for buffalo board.

 

I don't have it on our semi-trad, but it's good enough for flatbed trailers and I've used it for our dog kennels at home.

[DHutch]

See also 'rhino board' and other brand names of phenolic ply.

 

 

Daniel

[boat fan]

See also 'rhino board' and other brand names of phenolic ply.

 

 

Daniel

 

 

Thanks for that explanation Daniel , I was wondering what it was ..... we call that stuff " Formply " here in OZ.

 

It`s used for concrete form work here , and trailer beds .

 

I used it for flooring on my boat .

 

 

The edges should still be sealed well with epoxy .

 

I intend to lay vinyl over the rear deck to keep water off it long term.

Edited April 6, 2016 by boat fan

[dor]

 

 

Thanks for that explanation Daniel , I was wondering what it was ..... we call that stuff " Formply " here in OZ.

 

It`s used for concrete form work here , and trailer beds .

 

I used it for flooring on my boat .

 

 

 

 

I intend to lay vinyl over the rear deck to keep water off it long term.

 

That's fine if you can guarantee that no water can get between the vinyl and the deck material. If water does get in it can rot quicker than if it was uncovered.

 

My last boat had 1/4" aluminium checker plate which worked very well. Proper sound insulation underneath. Only downside is that it could get quite slippery when wet.

[WotEver]

And whatever you use don't make the panels so large that they're too heavy to easily remove. Otherwise you'll keep putting off those jobs that require their removal. Don't ask how I know this.

 

Tony

[Murflynn]

plywood with the edges protected by ally angle screwed in place with stainless screws.

presumably you have also fitted sacrificial anodes, to take account of our consistently wet climate?

[boat fan]

 

That's fine if you can guarantee that no water can get between the vinyl and the deck material. If water does get in it can rot quicker than if it was uncovered.

 

My last boat had 1/4" aluminium checker plate which worked very well. Proper sound insulation underneath. Only downside is that it could get quite slippery when wet.

 

 

Must agree .Water trapped under there would be bad.

[DHutch]

 

 

Thanks for that explanation Daniel , I was wondering what it was ..... we call that stuff " Formply " here in OZ.

 

It`s used for concrete form work here , and trailer beds .

 

The edges should still be sealed well with epoxy .

 

I intend to lay vinyl over the rear deck to keep water off it long term.

Used a lot for trailer floors here too, if less common for concrete shuttering. Plenty of past threads on where it can be sourced.

 

As you say, a PVC tarp over the back deck is common, typically suspended between the handrails and will help a lot even if only used during winter.

 

Daniel

[smileypete]

Normal ply and budget 'marine' ply will rot if it remains wet.

 

Best way to avoid that is treat with chemicals or keep it dry - or both ideally! (belt 'n braces )

[Claude]

Is Buffalo board the best quality phenolic ply or is there a better version?

 

A couple of suppliers:

 

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Buffalo-Board-Mesh-Plywood-18mm-x-2440mm-x-1220mm/p/680283

 

http://catalogue.chilterntimber.co.uk/category2070625.html

 

Sealing the edges:

 

http://www.makewoodgood.com/sealing-buffalo-board/

 

It seems to me that one problem even if you seal the edges, is that when you lift and drop the boards the edges can get scuffed and scraped so the coating/impregnation is scraped off.

Edited April 7, 2016 by Claude

[WotEver]

Sealing the edges:

 

http://www.makewoodgood.com/sealing-buffalo-board/

 

It seems to me that one problem even if you seal the edges, is that when you lift and drop the boards the edges can get scuffed and scraped so the coating/impregnation is scraped off.

 

According to the article you linked above, the Smiths CPES will "deeply penetrate the edges of plywood", so I'd not worry too much.

 

Tony

[cuthound]

Sealing the edges:

 

http://www.makewoodgood.com/sealing-buffalo-board/

 

It seems to me that one problem even if you seal the edges, is that when you lift and drop the boards the edges can get scuffed and scraped so the coating/impregnation is scraped off.

I have seen some boats with the edges routed and an aluminium channel attached with Sikaflex or similar.

[WotEver]

I have seen some boats with the edges routed and an aluminium channel attached with Sikaflex or similar.

 

Presumably after sealing the edge with Epoxy?

 

Tony

[cuthound]

 

Presumably after sealing the edge with Epoxy?

 

I think the Sikaflex kept the water out.

Tony

[boat fan]

 

 

Sealing the edges:

 

http://www.makewoodgood.com/sealing-buffalo-board/

 

It seems to me that one problem even if you seal the edges, is that when you lift and drop the boards the edges can get scuffed and scraped so the coating/impregnation is scraped off.

 

 

 

Hi Claude ,

 

One of the best ways to seal those boards is to epoxy glue some hardwood strips ( hardwood molding ) to all the edges.