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Mike Jordan

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Everything posted by Mike Jordan

  1. This must be someone with,scant knowledge of narrow boats. I can't even imagine any serious attempt to shot blast inside after removing the flooring. Just a transparent try on.
  2. If it is Laburnam you need to be aware that some people are very allergic to the dust. Exposure can be life threatening.
  3. Mike Jordan


    From the album: Deck Lights

  4. You're right it is, a quick Google shows it having both names. Mike.
  5. That's the name used for the type used on a drawer front so that the ends of the tails are covered and not visible from the front. The advantage is that it avoids the problems caused by dovetailing a rebated timber section. I've seen similar joints used for the same type of job but I have no idea of its proper name. I'm sure I've seen some with an angled shoulder which I think is for water checking the joint, again I can't remember where! Mike.
  6. Lm. I was about to post an easier method of dovetailing the corners of the deck lights but I was interrupted and failed to complete the post. I couldn't remember exactly how it went so I made a model with two bits of scrap timber. The missing bit of the top edge is where I tested a cutter shape. In the event of me making another deck light I intend to try this out. It's simple enough and easy to do, but hard to get my head round without the model to hand. Mike.
  7. Even if it had a survey yesterday, if you didn't engage the surveyor and pay for it yourself it means nothing. Only an idiot trusts a sellers survey. When new it would have been a good quality boat if fitted by H&l and cost about £10,000.
  8. As you say in a few instances the gutter may be nearly level, but the boat is constantly moving, the gutter is nice and wide with open ends which promotes air movement to dry it. It only takes a few millimetres to make the gutter drain so I don't think the timber is any more at risk than any other external joinery. My favoured hardwood for the job is Iroko, its second only to teak for durability and has a life expectancy of about thirty years in this type of use. The flush glazing means that there are no beads to suffer from water ingress. I am always surprised to see doors and cratch boards with external beading without even the 9 degree weather slope expected in soundly made joinery.
  9. The sealant used on the units I have used in the past fifteen years have been the hot melt type. No failures have been reported to date. I don't consider Perspex to be a suitable material for use in double glazing in any circumstances. I have seen a lot of different ways of making dog boxes and deck lights, some rely on plastic and rubber seals and even plastic piipes to drain the water. The design I have published in the photo gallery is, I believe, the most suitable, it relies on quality joinery. That means dovetails at at the corners of the box together with mortise and tenon joints on the frames and drips and drainage channels to remove the water. The box has an internal rebate at the base so that it can sit on top of the metal coaming with a 10mm gap between the box and boat roof avoid trapping water in the joint
  10. I'm not sure I undersand that, is the claim that the spacers or adhesive will be affected by sunlight? I've certainly not heard of any problems, and bearing in mind that even in a rebate they are subjected to uv regularly I don't expect problems. Some of the deck lights have now been in use for more than ten years without anyone making comment. Mike.
  11. I think it's fair comment to say that most dog boxes and deck lights are poorly made and tend to leak (those from Wotever and myself being exceptions of course) the easiest way to spot a duff one is to look for a diamond shaped rail fastened to the top of the ridge, this is usually a desperate (and futile) attempt to keep rain off the hinged joint and stop it leaking. A look at my gallery will show fitting and water proofing systems that work well! It's not rocket science, just old fashioned standard joinery methods. As to Houdini hatches, they are great for letting the heat out of the galley area but the condensation in winter months is serious enough to prevent any experienced boater from having one on a second boat.
  12. The design shown in the photos is taken from my book "Narrow Boat & Dutch Barge Joinery Designs" and very unlikely to leak if properly made with flush glazing. available on Amazon.
  13. You are right in saying that you can fit seals to the exhaust valve stems as well as the inlet valves, but if they are not up to spec as mine weren't they can be welded to the valve stem by the heat and then go up and down with the valve and make a very effective set of four little pumps each of which pumps oil droplets down the valve guides into the exhaust. In my instance all the joints in the exhaust system dripped oil into the engine room, soaked the exhaust lagging and made an obvious mess. Most fishing boats have a wet exhaust and the engine will be working much harder than in a canal boat so that may be the answer. The problem has been on here before but I can't find the posts. Its easy enough to take off the rocker cover and look through the springs. It is possible to remove the seals without lifting the head off.
  14. RLWP I'm not sure what you are referring to but my question still stands. I experienced a similar but smaller problem a number of years ago with a 1.8 and I will be happy to explain the cause and cure applied.
  15. When you did the top end rebuild did you put valve stem seals on the stems of the exhaust valves? If the answer is yes I have a suggestion about the possible cause of the problem. Mike.
  16. I built a 46 foot boat with tiller and internal wheel steering using a push/ pull cable. The suppliers of the steering gear supplied them to fishing boats and rated the cable at a third of a ton! Mine was not the longest stock cable and the suppliers said that cables for much longer boats were available to special order. Ive also tested a boat with hydraulic steering and found it to be very poor in comparison, the cable allows you to feel the pressure on the rudder and has a self centring action. The hydraulic set cost more than five times as much but gave the steerer no feedback at all . We had a lot of enjoyment from the wheel steering and boated in some terrible weather! if I have another boat I will definitely have dual steering again.
  17. The heater connection is a brass tube that sticks up from the head near to the thermostat housing, it may have been blanked off with a threaded plug. calcutt will have the part. As you say the centrifugal circulation pump will provide plenty of flow and pressure for your needs.
  18. OK- Exit ignorant hydraulics engineer- enter very clever plumber.
  19. The flow of water in a skin tank is critical! If you put the hot in at the bottom it will immediately rise to the top and be returned to the engine with little cooling on the way.
  20. If you are feeding the calorifier coil from the original heater feed pipe and returning the flow to the bottom hose, I would expect the engine water pump to push any air out of the coil without problem.
  21. The swan line boats were built at Fradley and by Horace greaves of stores road Derby before being made by Handcock & Lane. Only the latter were all steel and non had the steel tube top edge to the cabin Daivson Bros also made (or bought in ) shells with that distinctive steel tube top edge to the cabin. The bridge guards were fitted to some boats fitted with timber or glass fibre super structures to stop hirers ripping the top off on bridges.
  22. Its a good idea to keep the rise to 200mm maximum and measure to the height of the foredeck. Younger boaters have no problems with 300mm steps but as the years pass!
  23. If you can prise one out and send me PM I may be able to help. Mike.
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