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smileypete

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smileypete last won the day on November 24 2014

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  1. smileypete

    Solar Thermal Hot Water System

    Don't know but it looks similar to the Navitron Fino one, however that one is only about about 1m2 which is half the size of the Bimble one: https://www.navitron.org.uk/fino-flat-plate-solar-hot-water-panel
  2. smileypete

    Refridgerant

    Yeah to repeat what I said just a few days ago, that is because it is a totally different type of compressor. About all a car aircon compressor has in common with a domestic fridge compressor is that it compresses refrigerant gas, just about everything else is completely different. ETA - well, it's mostly made from metal I s'pose.
  3. smileypete

    Refridgerant

    It's could well be totally kaput. Unless the refrigerant pipes are physically damaged, it's extremely unlikely to be refrigerant loss. When the car breaks down, d'you try and get it running by topping up the air in the tyres?
  4. smileypete

    Trojan T-105 batteries

    Oops, I meant more than two thirds of the previous hour's value. In other words, tail current drops precipitously at first, but then as it declines to a low level it becomes much more stable.
  5. smileypete

    Trojan T-105 batteries

    Trojans can work out better value than cheapos long term, but may (will?) underperform if not charged at the higher than typical charge voltages the manufacturer requires. For tail current I'd monitor hourly, if it's less than 1-2% and less than a third of the previous hour's value I'd consider it fully charged. Of course this assumes the charge voltage is correct and the batts are healthy, ie not hopelessly sulphated! It's all about effective charging and effective batt monitoring, most problems come about because this is or was missing somewhere along the line...
  6. smileypete

    Battery Question (yes, another one)

    Not quite, that's a classic Gibboism I'm afraid. So much that's misleading in such a short statement! The leading batt mfrs will carefully detail the right way to charge their batts. If you feel entitled to ignore their wisdom, then any resulting problem isn't their fault - is it?
  7. smileypete

    Monitoring lithium batteries

    Maybe have a couple of 12V FLA batts for 12V pumps, lights; then a 24V lithium pack that runs the big inverter. Charge it with boost converters set to lithium voltages, use a low voltage disconnect and the inverter remote to protect from over discharge. OK you lose some efficiency but all the charging sources can be fairly conventional. Could even use the lithiums to give the FLAs a full charge when they need it, running the 12V while doing so. And if the lithiums run out of power unexpectedly you still have 12V for basic service. ETA: Would also need a 12V split charge relay so the lithium charging doesn't flatten the FLAs, but that's no biggie.
  8. smileypete

    Sealing Wooden Ply Cabin Roof

    Could also try skinning it with decent 1/4" WBP or marine ('marine') ply. If the boat is liveaboard it may be that moisture from inside is condensing between the sheets of ply, what's on the inside of the roof? Maybe try the lumpy water forums for ideas, bear in mind that fresh paint is better than neglected varnish, and covers funky wood nicely. ?
  9. smileypete

    Monitoring lithium batteries

    Yeah that's pretty much it, use one bank and charge to 85-95%, then really juice the out of use bank by charging to 100% and doing a bit of EQ. After that, just switch usage to the fully charged bank and repeat. Drawbacks are needing extra space for batts, an extra bank (though a tired existing bank should do) and the biggie, it's far toooo much faffing around for most people. For those with very good DIY eleccy skills, cheap(er) second user lithiums look to be a viable option when they turn up.
  10. smileypete

    Monitoring lithium batteries

    This guy has gone for lithiums on his narrowboat: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8bkF-v3-Foi9ps9h1D06hA Quick summary: Much faster recharge times, efficiency, no sulphation or stratification in return for.... boatloads of cash. ETA: Seems Jono was mentioned in passing at the beginning, his channel is well worth a look. For those who fully understand FLA with good DIY abilities, the 'two bank' solution of FLAs might overcome the typical problems? Also for lithiums maybe a 'powerwall' that's recharged by genny or travelpower is another way forward?
  11. smileypete

    Shoreline 12v fridge - problem?

    It's rare for domestic fridges to leak refrigerant unless the pipework is damaged, which is rare in itself unless someone attacks the frost in the icebox with a knife. Without knowing that for sure, the layman guess is probably right only 2-5% of the time if that. Of course everyone thinks that their own snap diagnosis is good. In the OP's case I'd say it's unrealistic expectations, coupled with oversight of parts at the end of the manual. If the 12V compressor runs about 25W and at typical fridge freezer mains compressor runs about 100W, it's fairly clear which one has far more grunt. My mains frig will turn a slightly cool beer put in the icebox into an ice cold one in an hour if I run it non stop. That'll do me, well worth about 100Wh.
  12. smileypete

    Font

    Thanks for the replies, had a good laugh at the funny ones. Happens on Win10 but not XP, so a look at the geeky stuff reveals that the web design falls back on the system font instead of using it's own one, which seems unusual to me. Invisions own forum acts the same way, but another other invision based forum doesn't, so I guess it's a 'feature' of the default install. Sorry to say but I hate modern web 'design' with a passion, sometimes.
  13. smileypete

    Electrical Issues

    Would be nice if while charging above 80-90% it alternates between the estimated SoC and 'tail' and '????' which would actually work OK enough on a 4 digit 7 segment display. Sure they'd be a lot of WTF is tail?!?! questions, but at least they users would get enlightened before they wrecked their batts. There could then be a setting to disable the tail reminders, in the manual this would be handily located next to relevant warnings and a clear explanation in a BIG block letters. In short, Gibbo understood electronics well, but human nature and the art of writing user manuals, not so much.
  14. smileypete

    Shoreline 12v fridge - problem?

    Sorry but fridge compressors have almost zero in common with car air con compressors, other than they compress refrigerant gas. Where are the mechanical seals on a domestic fridge compressor? ? People often mis-diagnoise the need for regassing fridges as it's the first 'expert conclusion' they mistakenly jump to, but it's pretty rare in practice and there's plenty other possibilities. Back to the OPs question, a look in the manual reveals the following statements: http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/admin/document_library/RRInstructions_BD35ONLY.v21_150618.pdf 'Note - These 12/24 Volt DC freezers are designed to store pre-frozen foods, not to freeze down large quantities of fresh foods. Expect the motor compressor to run for very long periods without cutting off if you attempt to freeze quantities of fresh foods. Caution: If the room temperature starts to rise above +25ºc the motor compressor will begin to run for longer periods and consequently require more battery power. Room temperatures above +30ºc could result in correct storage temperatures not being maintained inside the appliance. ' The second para to me implies that when you reach temps above 30°C in high summer, the compressor may well need to run 24/7...
  15. smileypete

    Solar vs Generator

    Some good info here. IF the objective is reliable long term power via lead acid batts, then the boater needs to learn how to effectively charge and effectively monitor said batteries. Otherwise it's in the lap of the gods, who may not be so magnanimous. Though plentiful solar can delay their wrath, at least in summertime...
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