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smileypete

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smileypete last won the day on November 24 2014

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  1. smileypete

    Sealing Wooden Ply Cabin Roof

    Could also try skinning it with decent 1/4" WBP or marine ('marine') ply. If the boat is liveaboard it may be that moisture from inside is condensing between the sheets of ply, what's on the inside of the roof? Maybe try the lumpy water forums for ideas, bear in mind that fresh paint is better than neglected varnish, and covers funky wood nicely. 😉
  2. smileypete

    Monitoring lithium batteries

    Yeah that's pretty much it, use one bank and charge to 85-95%, then really juice the out of use bank by charging to 100% and doing a bit of EQ. After that, just switch usage to the fully charged bank and repeat. Drawbacks are needing extra space for batts, an extra bank (though a tired existing bank should do) and the biggie, it's far toooo much faffing around for most people. For those with very good DIY eleccy skills, cheap(er) second user lithiums look to be a viable option when they turn up.
  3. smileypete

    Monitoring lithium batteries

    This guy has gone for lithiums on his narrowboat: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8bkF-v3-Foi9ps9h1D06hA Quick summary: Much faster recharge times, efficiency, no sulphation or stratification in return for.... boatloads of cash. ETA: Seems Jono was mentioned in passing at the beginning, his channel is well worth a look. For those who fully understand FLA with good DIY abilities, the 'two bank' solution of FLAs might overcome the typical problems? Also for lithiums maybe a 'powerwall' that's recharged by genny or travelpower is another way forward?
  4. smileypete

    Shoreline 12v fridge - problem?

    It's rare for domestic fridges to leak refrigerant unless the pipework is damaged, which is rare in itself unless someone attacks the frost in the icebox with a knife. Without knowing that for sure, the layman guess is probably right only 2-5% of the time if that. Of course everyone thinks that their own snap diagnosis is good. In the OP's case I'd say it's unrealistic expectations, coupled with oversight of parts at the end of the manual. If the 12V compressor runs about 25W and at typical fridge freezer mains compressor runs about 100W, it's fairly clear which one has far more grunt. My mains frig will turn a slightly cool beer put in the icebox into an ice cold one in an hour if I run it non stop. That'll do me, well worth about 100Wh.
  5. smileypete

    Font

    Thanks for the replies, had a good laugh at the funny ones. Happens on Win10 but not XP, so a look at the geeky stuff reveals that the web design falls back on the system font instead of using it's own one, which seems unusual to me. Invisions own forum acts the same way, but another other invision based forum doesn't, so I guess it's a 'feature' of the default install. Sorry to say but I hate modern web 'design' with a passion, sometimes.
  6. smileypete

    Electrical Issues

    Would be nice if while charging above 80-90% it alternates between the estimated SoC and 'tail' and '????' which would actually work OK enough on a 4 digit 7 segment display. Sure they'd be a lot of WTF is tail?!?! questions, but at least they users would get enlightened before they wrecked their batts. There could then be a setting to disable the tail reminders, in the manual this would be handily located next to relevant warnings and a clear explanation in a BIG block letters. In short, Gibbo understood electronics well, but human nature and the art of writing user manuals, not so much.
  7. smileypete

    Shoreline 12v fridge - problem?

    Sorry but fridge compressors have almost zero in common with car air con compressors, other than they compress refrigerant gas. Where are the mechanical seals on a domestic fridge compressor? 🙂 People often mis-diagnoise the need for regassing fridges as it's the first 'expert conclusion' they mistakenly jump to, but it's pretty rare in practice and there's plenty other possibilities. Back to the OPs question, a look in the manual reveals the following statements: http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/admin/document_library/RRInstructions_BD35ONLY.v21_150618.pdf 'Note - These 12/24 Volt DC freezers are designed to store pre-frozen foods, not to freeze down large quantities of fresh foods. Expect the motor compressor to run for very long periods without cutting off if you attempt to freeze quantities of fresh foods. Caution: If the room temperature starts to rise above +25ºc the motor compressor will begin to run for longer periods and consequently require more battery power. Room temperatures above +30ºc could result in correct storage temperatures not being maintained inside the appliance. ' The second para to me implies that when you reach temps above 30°C in high summer, the compressor may well need to run 24/7...
  8. smileypete

    Solar vs Generator

    Some good info here. IF the objective is reliable long term power via lead acid batts, then the boater needs to learn how to effectively charge and effectively monitor said batteries. Otherwise it's in the lap of the gods, who may not be so magnanimous. Though plentiful solar can delay their wrath, at least in summertime...
  9. smileypete

    Font

    Somewhere along the line it seems the font for normal text has changed to a much less readable one? If so I'd be interested to know why... The new font is very 'skinny' and even when zoomed in it isn't that readable.
  10. smileypete

    Solar vs Generator

    If you're living aboard 'off grid', a reasonable amount of solar is a bit of a no-brainer these days.
  11. smileypete

    Have My Trojans Recovered? Too Late!!

    Best thing would be to learn to effectively charge and effectively monitor whatever lead acid batts you have, or you'll be better off with cheap disposable leisures replaced every year or two. I guess that the 15.5V at deep winter temps was hardly tickling the Trojans, plus it was only for relatively short intervals. Good to hear they're performing much better, if they're surplus to requirements maybe someone else will pay around half of retail for them, still a lot better than scrap value.
  12. smileypete

    Specific Gravity Discrepancies

    There's a good description of equalisation in The Battery FAQ: http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq9.htm#equalization The optional EQUALIZATION stage is a controlled 5% to 10% absorption overcharge to equalize and balance the voltage and specific gravity in each cell. Equalizing can reverse the build-up of the chemical effects like electrolyte stratification where acid concentration is greater at the bottom of the battery. It also helps remove sulfate crystals that might have built up on the surface or in the pores of the plates. Bearing in mind the important safety precautions when handling lead acid batts, when EQ is being done you'd want to see the all the batt cells bubbling nicely by the end of the EQ charge. I do think the Trojan type batts need effective monitoring and charging to get the best from them; it does seem that sometimes people half hope they can get away with less, but often it doesn't work out well enough for them in the long term. Maybe reasonable quality leisures would give a bit better result overall in this case, or in the long term lithiums will become economical enough. Perhaps part of the problem is that a canal boat is more of a hobby that competes with many other interests, and not so critical to survival like a blue water sailboat is.
  13. smileypete

    Mains Fridge - How to power it?

    It is ballpark though. For a better idea plug it into a power monitor, set the display to amps, switch the fridge off and back on after a couple of seconds while the compressor is running. Repeat every couple of mins until the compressor stalls and you get a high current reading. Multiply by 240 to get an idea of the continuous rating the inverter needs to be. Or, for your 80W fridge, just get a 1000W inverter to be on the safe side.
  14. smileypete

    Mains Fridge - How to power it?

    There's cheaper pure sine inverters too: https://www.amazon.co.uk/1000W-power-inverter-battery-electricity/dp/B00AEVHTNG Also there's some really cheapo ones out there but most (all?) of these are best avoided. For a ballpark estimate, a typical inverter should have a continuous rating which is 10x the wattage of the fridge. Mastervolt and victron etc are good but somewhat over rated as they're not 100% reliable for everybody.
  15. smileypete

    Appropriate solar

    For big installs there's double pole solar DC isolators available: https://www.electricalguys.co.uk/salzer-dc-isolator-for-solar-installs-h226-81400-710n1.html If you squint at the pic you can just make out that each pole uses 2 contacts in series, I guess it's just a 4 pole switch rewired appropriately. For a modest 36V or 72V install a standard 2 pole MCB might work just fine. More info: http://www.plctalk.net/qanda/showthread.php?t=95968 Edit: Squinting at the above pic in this topic it looks like the breakers are rated 125V DC so that should be fine for the solar side.
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