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smileypete

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smileypete last won the day on November 24 2014

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  1. Adam Welch is good too, he covers some of the Tracer/EP Solar stuff and cheaper MPPTs: https://youtube.com/channel/UCm5sG3-BXQZfVy3st2T_XKg
  2. 😂Some solar controllers have a load output with over discharge protection. This could be used to charge an old smartphone, which would send a text when the charge source is disconnected, using the app 'E-Robot'. So when the batteries get over discharged while you are away you get a text message from the boat. 😀 Happy Christmas everyone!
  3. As said, use matching inserts from the same manufacturer, the fittings shouldn't matter. Using straights is a lot better for direct runs, but bear in mind thermal expansion for long runs. BES have some pretty keen prices if you can order over £40 and take delivery: https://www.bes.co.uk/15-mm-x-50-m-qual-pex-plastic-barrier-pipe-coil-white https://www.bes.co.uk/qual-pex-plastic-barrier-straight-pipe-white-15mm-x-3m-19310
  4. Main options: 1) Clamp meter 2) Struggle? In the past, only option 2 was available. Seems some of 'the experts' still prefer this, dunno why...
  5. The big problem may be avoiding idle losses from the inverter. Probably could run a counter top freezer as a high efficiency fridge though.
  6. Don't know but it looks similar to the Navitron Fino one, however that one is only about about 1m2 which is half the size of the Bimble one: https://www.navitron.org.uk/fino-flat-plate-solar-hot-water-panel
  7. Yeah to repeat what I said just a few days ago, that is because it is a totally different type of compressor. About all a car aircon compressor has in common with a domestic fridge compressor is that it compresses refrigerant gas, just about everything else is completely different. ETA - well, it's mostly made from metal I s'pose.
  8. It's could well be totally kaput. Unless the refrigerant pipes are physically damaged, it's extremely unlikely to be refrigerant loss. When the car breaks down, d'you try and get it running by topping up the air in the tyres?
  9. Oops, I meant more than two thirds of the previous hour's value. In other words, tail current drops precipitously at first, but then as it declines to a low level it becomes much more stable.
  10. Trojans can work out better value than cheapos long term, but may (will?) underperform if not charged at the higher than typical charge voltages the manufacturer requires. For tail current I'd monitor hourly, if it's less than 1-2% and less than a third of the previous hour's value I'd consider it fully charged. Of course this assumes the charge voltage is correct and the batts are healthy, ie not hopelessly sulphated! It's all about effective charging and effective batt monitoring, most problems come about because this is or was missing somewhere along the line...
  11. Not quite, that's a classic Gibboism I'm afraid. So much that's misleading in such a short statement! The leading batt mfrs will carefully detail the right way to charge their batts. If you feel entitled to ignore their wisdom, then any resulting problem isn't their fault - is it?
  12. Maybe have a couple of 12V FLA batts for 12V pumps, lights; then a 24V lithium pack that runs the big inverter. Charge it with boost converters set to lithium voltages, use a low voltage disconnect and the inverter remote to protect from over discharge. OK you lose some efficiency but all the charging sources can be fairly conventional. Could even use the lithiums to give the FLAs a full charge when they need it, running the 12V while doing so. And if the lithiums run out of power unexpectedly you still have 12V for basic service. ETA: Would also need a 12V split charge relay so the lithium charging doesn't flatten the FLAs, but that's no biggie.
  13. Could also try skinning it with decent 1/4" WBP or marine ('marine') ply. If the boat is liveaboard it may be that moisture from inside is condensing between the sheets of ply, what's on the inside of the roof? Maybe try the lumpy water forums for ideas, bear in mind that fresh paint is better than neglected varnish, and covers funky wood nicely. ?
  14. Yeah that's pretty much it, use one bank and charge to 85-95%, then really juice the out of use bank by charging to 100% and doing a bit of EQ. After that, just switch usage to the fully charged bank and repeat. Drawbacks are needing extra space for batts, an extra bank (though a tired existing bank should do) and the biggie, it's far toooo much faffing around for most people. For those with very good DIY eleccy skills, cheap(er) second user lithiums look to be a viable option when they turn up.
  15. This guy has gone for lithiums on his narrowboat: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8bkF-v3-Foi9ps9h1D06hA Quick summary: Much faster recharge times, efficiency, no sulphation or stratification in return for.... boatloads of cash. ETA: Seems Jono was mentioned in passing at the beginning, his channel is well worth a look. For those who fully understand FLA with good DIY abilities, the 'two bank' solution of FLAs might overcome the typical problems? Also for lithiums maybe a 'powerwall' that's recharged by genny or travelpower is another way forward?
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