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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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smileypete last won the day on November 24 2014

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  1. e-Robot app

    I just tried it out and with gmail and had a bit of strangeness. The first email from a lesser used gmail account to my normal one got a warning about 'less secure apps' in the lesser used account with a link where I could turn access on. Having done that the next email ended up in the spam bin of my usual account so I had to mark it as 'not spam' The email after that came through fine though it took a few seconds (5-10) So all in all it may be worth creating a 'throwaway' gmail account for e-robot to log into and send the emails, then be watchful they don't initially end up in a spam bin of any accounts the emails are sent to. All in all e-Robot is a nice little app though the format of commands can take some getting used to! Also newer versions of Android are making things more restricted (unless rooted, of course)
  2. Battery Monitor Shunt Wiring Best Practise

    OK couple of other bits, for the +ve bus bar and fuses you could use one of these a mega/midi fuse box: Usually about £25 to £30, would also allow a midi fuse for the feed to the DC panel your boat presumably has. Also if the combi negative return is moved to the the shunt (non battery end), the negative bus bar will only need to handle the leisure alt, MPPT, and DC panel return, so a lesser rated bus bar would do fine, maybe 100 to 200A depending on size of MPPT and leisure alt.
  3. New batteries needed, AGM or FLA?

    Out of interest what make/type/model are the existing batts and how much did they cost? Any ideas what voltage the alternator charges at, eg 14.4V?
  4. Interconnecting (5) Multiple batteries

    Yeah method 2 and thick cables.
  5. Battery Monitor Shunt Wiring Best Practise

    OK I modified the diagram in paint rather than try and describe things in words: Also I moved the fuses to the battery end. There are a few other bits and pieces that might be worth a mention, but need to go out now, will try to get back to this later... One thing that springs to mind (now I've uploaded it ) is there needs to be a fuse in the starter batt charge cable, at the starter batt end. There are some different ways to connect the starter alt to the starter batt, some bypass the isolator if the cable is short and well protected, some add a fuse instead.
  6. Petes

  7. Battery Monitor Shunt Wiring Best Practise

    ISTR that it's best to connect the DC bond to the hull from engine block and not somewhere near the batts. That way if a return cable starts to go faulty there's less likely to be fault currents going via DC bond though the hull and then porp shaft or some other way. Also ISTR there can be some current diverted even if the return cables are good, Keeping Up had this problem. Maybe on the diag you could put a dotted line round the starter and two alts to represent the engine block, this would then be connected to starter bank -ve, negative bus bar, and hull instead of showing direct connections. In practice this may be done from a starter mounting bolt as the starter takes the most current, though engine marinisers may do things differently. Yeah it is fairly esoteric but might come in handy for a year round off grid liveaboard. (the question being - how would you best eq your batts in winter without long hours of engine or genny running?) But only around 0.5% of boaters will face this situation, and to answer such questions will invite 'expert hell', so best do what you suggest and use a single bank and isolator.
  8. Need a Pressure Washer - Not Karcher :(

    The pro ones are OK so I've heard, the cheap consumer ones are junk (IME)
  9. Best MR11 LED bulbs

    If you want wide angle, why use spots? (rhetorical question ) Maybe bypass the MR11s and go for LED strip, puck lights, or even MR16s. For large boats I wonder if it's better to have the lighting done in mains via a small dedicated inverter, as there's a very wide choice of GU10s. I have a few dimmable Philips GU10s LEDs that are 'all glass' and I wonder if they do without electrolytics, some of the MR11s on ali look the same, but it's a moot point if wide angle is a must.
  10. Best MR11 LED bulbs

    How about buy one or two of a few different ones from Aliexpress (usually the cheapest source), reverse engineer them, let us know what you think. Personally I would look at the 'COB' ones first and foremost... eg: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?site=glo&g=y&SortType=total_tranpro_desc&SearchText=cob+mr11&needQuery=n ETA: The best for a mainstream brand at typical high street prices may be the OSRAM Star MR11 3.7w (345lm) for £9.99: https://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Osram-GU4-(MR11)-LED-Bulb/36-6918
  11. Generation Decision

    What sort of loads are you looking to run off 240V? Running the short term heavy 240V loads straight off a genny or Travelpower, in winter at least, should be far less problematic than running a large charger/batt bank/inverter combination. But a winter mooring with shoreline has got to be the best option.
  12. Electrical System

    One other thing, this topic mentions the use of stranded instead of solid cable, together with 'bootlace ferrules' necessary on fine stranded wire.
  13. Electrical System

    Might be nice to have some background on the boat itself, otherwise I'd assume a typical narrowboat say 55' or so. With a 32A supply it'd be possible to feed the boat with two 16A radials, maybe one for the kitchen and one for everything else. Or even a single 32A ring main, provided the loads can be distributed fairly evenly on each side of the ring - not always easy in practice. Then just add the normal 2 pole RCD, all of it will fit in a standard 4 module 'garage consumer unit' that's typically used. Unless the boat is serious money I'd fit a decent galvanic isolator with remote LED status monitor like the safeshore ones, instead of an isolation transformer, but that's personal preference. You could then have just a single selector switch between 16A, 32A, inverter. Maybe use an extra pole on the selector to isolate the calorifier and charger when the inverter is selected. On the DC side the better quality DIN sockets can be used for heavier loads alongside some car 12V sockets for small chargers etc. Maybe them fused centrally but protected by lower current DC breakers next to the sockets. If the boat IS serious money, it may be worth paying a good marine electrical specialist for an hour or two to review the design and give some tips.
  14. Diesel heating 5kw new for £163

    What was the original reason for buying it in the first place? Selling it on for a quick profit? Apart from the word 'planar' in the title, nothing else indicated it was a genuine planar heater. If the seller wanted to get more hits on Ebay search maybe they could say '(like Planar and Eberspacher)' if Ebay allow it.
  15. Inverter ac mains and AC out connection.

    Haven't yet read all replies, but how about fit the 2 pole MCB protecting the combi into a separate small 2 or 3 module enclosure. It'd make the wiring more logical and easy to follow. Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-3-module-ip65-insulated-enclosure-with-visor/74436 If connecting up 'flex' (fine stranded cable) to standard leccy bits don't forget to squish some bootlace ferrules on the bare ends of the strands, as standard leccy bits generally aren't designed for fine stranded cable...