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  1. That's already in there so wouldn't need to change it, just the connection to the rest of the linkage.
  2. It's not a minor problem, i wouldn't entertain the idea if it was. It's like driving a tank at a the winding hole and i hope to sell it in the next year or two so want it sorted beforehand.
  3. Sounds similar to my set up. Could i replace the bar with some 25mm box section maybe 2 or 3mil thick?
  4. The main lever coming off the gearbox shaft is a 30mm diameter solid steel bar stretching about 700mm, I'm pretty sure it doesn't need to be that robust :). You could chuck a hand grenade in there and it would still be intact. I'll try and take some pictures and see if some clever bod can't give me some pointers to improve the set up.
  5. Genius 🙄 No machine shop here unfortunately, I will look into the LH150.
  6. It's always been the same and has very little use really.
  7. Sounds complicated although not beyond me and possibly quite expensive. It might be easier to redesign the leverage operating the gearbox. It's made from very heavy thick steel. I'm fairly sure it doesn't need to be that built to that spec to function properly.
  8. Hi, i have an SR2 engine with an LM100 gearbox, i want to swap this for a hydraulic gearbox as the mechanism is very stiff and heavy and the only way to improve this would be to take the lever through the decking. I have a very dry bilge and would lose this if i do that so looking at hydraulic options. Is this possible and what would it entail.
  9. I'm seriously looking into this, do you know anyone who has painted over it? And if so what was the outcome? I realise its meant to be the finished product but wondering if this would be possible as a black roof would absorb heat and not really my choice of colour.
  10. 1k!!! cough splutter. Thanks, this is probably what i'll run with, shame it's so pricey but hey ho.
  11. I dont want to skin it again as i only skinned it 5 years ago, i'm looking for a more permanent solution. T&G matchboard is on the inside and 1in multi foil insulation on top of that, then the 3 layers of ply.
  12. Thanks for the info, only the roof is wood and its very well insulated with 1in reflective multi foil & micro fiber before the 3 layers of ply so is unlikely to get very hot and also is 36ft long so heat would dissipate from directly above burner. I think i could possibly leave the sides of the roof (over 100mm depth) as wood and that would allow it to breath. Also there is some overhang on the cabin sides allowing more breathing. Food for thought.
  13. Iv read that canvas was for tongue and groove and to allow for movement. Canvas was my original plan till i looked into it. Still open to it if it solves my problem. Wouldn't that be a bit messy and difficult to get a smooth finish without bumps?
  14. My mate who built the roof recomended that when we replaced the old roof. I boat single handed though which means theres a lot of jumping on and off the roof at locks, would also need to store stuff on there. my worry is how it would fare with this after a few years.
  15. I wouldn't say iv used a lot, the roofs only been on 5 years but taking it back to bare wood would be an enormous job by sanding and i would lose some of the wood to boot. it is possible that there is a remover for the sealants from Osmo so i'll look into it. Thanks
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